NoahDL88

A service manager i talked to in Michigan said some time late 2007, so they should be on their way soon.

This could also be caused by low coolant, (no heat) make sure you don't have any leaks and that your coolant is topped off.

The IAC, or idle air control valve would be my first starting point, they rarely go bad, but they do get dirty with age and don't like to slide easily causing a searching idle and sometimes stalling at idle. I'd check that out first, unless you have cam or crank sensor codes.

Start pulling off the power wires from the swap, and if theres one that makes the voltage drop, that'll be the offender, then we gotta figure out what the wire goes to, and go from there.

Ea-81 rims generally do not fit around EA-82 front rotors

Not worth my time arguing anymore, since you're all ASE certified mechanics, do what you want. I'll never run a oil impregnated gauze filter after what i've seen in this industry.

it won't help your head gasket problem, so at this point its probably not worth the money.

A bad thermo sensor will confuse the ecu and make it run uber rich, which could cause a running rough problem. I'd replace the t-stat asap, it will make your car run so cool that fuel will collect on the cylinder walls and that will ruin your cylinders in no time. also it doesn't pull adequate heat from the motor, so your sensor will read cold, but there will be parts of your motor that will be overheating.

they have three options, 1, try and tap the hole and hope the sensor threads take hold 2, put in a helicoil or weld on a new bung. 3, buy you a new cat. I'm a mechanic, and i've seen how a dealership will try to get you to pay for their mistakes, but if they pulled the sensor, and stripped it themselves, you are entitled to have your car back in the condition you left it, so if that means they replace the cat, good for you, bad for them, but they have to foot the bill, not you. and don't take no for an answer.

Dupont color chip codes This may help, or it may not, hopefully it will.

Maintenence, pay now, or pay more later. I'd get the coolant flushed, ATF flush, LOF, and the fuel filter probably isn't a bad idea, even if it is a "lifetime" part, unless they have to drop the tank.

If it tricks the ECU into running rich, its going in the wrong direction, the Subaru fuel map stock is a bit on the rich side, It turns out that a lot of tuners when programing the SMT6, they lean out the mix a hair, and that makes the computer much happier.

Rarely have i found that a 12 pt can do what a 6 pt can't, and you're much less likely to round a 6pt, but thats just me. 22 mm for the crank pully 36mm for the EA-series hub bolt 32mm for EJ hub bolt I'd say for 1/4" drive, 8,10,12 mm 3/8th" 10,12,14,17 1/2" 14,17,19,21 I don't recall a specific 21mm, but there are a few on the car. Most novices go too big too quick, when i'm working on the car i like to start with the smallest ratchet and work up, with a 12 mm i'll start with 1/4 inch, as you're less likely to break stuff. Also, the bestest subaru tool ever is the 14mm ratcheting wrench, makes pulling a motor a breeze. Also, you're gonna want 2 12mm wrenches, for the throttle cable at the very least, but i'm sure other things would require two. Never used a pickle fork, just whaked the side with a hammer till she came loose. Also, maybe the most important, PB-b'laster, infact, regular dunkings in PB have been known to keep old subarus from rusting, stalling, smoking, squeaking and burning oil.

Thanks But it appears that all the pictures are too small, or have gone missing. :-\ Maybe i'll have to reinvent the wheel?

This is typically on the powerstroke diesel, and its usually the turbo that goes first, followed by the engine. your results may vary, but we rarely replace turbo's or engines with stock air filters, thats not to say that every blown engine has an aftermarket air filter attached, but for the most part, they do.

I know at least one of you guys have done this, there was a nice setup at WCSS7, how did you overcome the width issue? I want to put good legacy suspension into an EA-81, make it somewhat streetable.

Any news?

I reiterate, we replace turbo's and engines because of K&N air filters.

So, I'm looking at picking up a 83 hatch and an 84 wagon off of Craigslist, the wagon really only needs a carb, which there is a good one on the hatch, or so I'm told, The guy wants 300 for the both, and if i pay him for the hatch, i told him I'd help him get rid of the wagon. So if you're in the Arlington/Smokey Point area, and want a practically free wagon, maybe $100 we gotta move fast. That is if i actually get the hatch. I'd keep it myself, but that would bring my car collection to 5, and i only have room for 3 Says rust is an issue on the Hatch, i may not be getting it after all. but here's hopeing Cliffs notes. $100 dollar wagon in Arlington Washington, I'll let you know if it comes into my possession probably Friday afternoon.

We replace 6.0 diesels at our shop every week, because people run K&N air filters, thats the only reason. Stay away, and be very afraid.

To the signal wire going to the EA gauge.

If you are gonna be swapping in the 5 lug, you're gonna need the XT-6 lower control arms, and then a complete set of what ever newer subaru you're swapping in, so outer axle cups, hubs struts, and brakes. In the rear, you're limited to the XT-6, with the backingplate, hub.rotor and caliper, which the last is the same as the regular four bolt caliper.

Maybe it works well until the choke comes off?

Sure it'll work, but every time you lower it for the street, you're gonna have to swap tires, there isn't much clearance on the big offroad tires between the rubber and the fender. I don't really see the point, after you have it all setup the way you want you'll probably have spent about as much as it would have been to have one for the street, and one for the road.

If you have power tot he coil, but not out, then i'd suspect the coil