NoahDL88

Anybody?

Those tires are not DOT legal, and their max speed is somewhere around 35 mph, not so usefull on a dual purpose rig, but if you trailer, it could work.

That was my exact problem with my 88 DL, i know whats wrong, have i fixed it? nope.

Run a compression test, it sounds like you might have bad headgaskets, the bubbling coolant. :-\

Yeah, its an EA-82, i didn't think of the XT bracket, i have an RX tranny, maybe that will have the bracket also?

I'm looking into putting a hoop behind the drivers seat, with a set of bars going back to the rear, with a cross bar just in front of the rear hatch, (this will be on a Hatchback) I'm not looking for SCCA legality, I'm just looking to have at least the spec tubing that they require, as i figure that will be a minimum that i'll want to go with, i want it to be functional, but passing tech isn't a requirement. I'm really just looking at a way to mount 4 pt harnesess, i've seen way too many mickeymouse operations when it comes to safety restraints, and i don't want to get cut in half in an accident. Notes by Cliff Whats the spec tubeing for SCCA roll cages, and does anyone know of a tubeing bender in Marysville/Arlington?

My stopper got bent when i lengthened it, and it eventually broke at the bend. so yeah, if it gets bent, it'll probably fail there, rather quickly. I'm currently not running a pitch stopper on the EJ wagon, which reminds me that i probably should, anyone with an EJ swap figure that one out?

That XT motor you sold me had a ps pump on it, you want that i should send it back to you? the pump, not the engine.

I'll play on the safe side, and go with either an intercooler fogger, or leave it off entirely, dosn't seem like a good gamble to me, at least on my own car.

Umm, you have read your Corky Bell right? water injection is for people who don't tune right, and aren't smart enough to get rid of detonation.

Umm, GO TO YOUR ROOM, and don't come down till you can act like a responsible adult.

Umm, the thread above this one has everything you could ever want to know about lifts, tires, wheels and everything. I'd say search, but its right there on top. Welcome to the board.

I only know about that cause i've been that idiot on multiple occasions. Congrats on the swap, now enjoy it.

I believe the Y pipe seperates behind the engine/transmission mating area, so i think it would be easier to pull the tranny without the exhaust up in there, but it might be possible without dropping it, but i don't think so.

Like i said, if its between the positions, it will act as if its in neutral.

The EA-82 shaft, and the 89-94 legacy shaft are the same diameter and spline count, so it shouldn't be a problem, unless the donor and recipient rigs are 2wd vs 4wd, but even then i don't think that would be different. If you swapped in the part time gearbox, you need to make sure its either in 2wd, or 4 low or high, cause if its in between selections it will act as if its in neutral.

I have a friend in KC with a 97 OBS that needs a clutch, And since i'm in Seattle i can't help her out, so if there is anyone out there that could help her, or knows of a good shop thats inexpensive, let me know, i'd really apppreciate it.

Because in Israel they have yellow plates, duh I believe they have 2 different color plates, white and yellow, and i belive one means one thing and the other color means another, i don't know if its a front back thing, or if its a certain groups have yellow and others have white.

out and in, legacy motor, under 2 hours

If it worked, every oem in the world would be jumping on it.

I'd say 98% that its something that you changed/fixed, unless you recently messed with the carb, its probably not that. Make sure that all your new harness connections are soldered, not just spun and tapped together. The battery should be at 12.7 or higher resting, and over 14 with the alternator running. Which harness did it short out? are there shorts to grounds in the harness? Year/Model could just be out of gas. There are 2 syles of EA-81 Alternators, one has an internal voltage regulator, and the older style has an external, if your car takes the newer one, and you have the older one, you don't have a voltage regulator, which could cause harness fires and all that fun stuff.

Any muffler that fits, Yes. Gotta watch out for a buzzy muffler, or one thats too loud, but the OEM style should be cheapest, and they won't sound like a fart can, or make people want to race you. I believe the dynomax is a good aftermarket muffler, they flow the best of the aftermarkets and they should be rather inexpensive if you get their "economy line" that are under a different name, which escapes me at this time.

There's a cotter pin . If thats removed, i'd spray it down liberally with BP B'laster or some other penetrating oil, WD-40 won't cut it. Then wait a few days if you can, spraying every few hours, or when ever you get the chance. then go to town, as long as you follow lefty loosy righty tighty, you won't break the bolt or the stub shaft. Thats not to say you won't break your socket or breaker bar, but the car itself won't break before craftsman's 1/2 inch breaker bar will. If you know any mechanics in the area, you might get them to quick hit the nut loose and tighten it again for you for cheap/free with a impact gun. Once its been loosened once it'll come off much easier the next time.

We have a supplier, called fastenall or something along those lines, and there based out of B-ham so its even close for you.

I've been concidering parting with my 96 OBS, its got a few minor dents, an EGR related check engine light and a clunk in the rear, but other than that its straight. Its even got forester struts and the WRX wagon rear sway bar. I think KBB rates it at 4200, in its condition, but i'd be willing to take 3250 for it. You want it, come get it. Sorry I don't have pictures. They were on USMB.net. Its a 2.2 Brand new CCR W/10k, Auto, blue and theres a radio shack CB in the dash, but the antenna isn't hooked up yet.