NoahDL88

Maybe the devil needs something reliable with 4wd to carry all the evil souls around in. If you had to spend and eternity with just 1 car, a brat is probably a good choice.

If you're gonna go EJ22, get the EJ22T block its closed deck, and has piston squirters. Don't know if it can handle 400hp, but it would be the heads, and not the block that would be the limiting factor.

could be the gasket between the transmission and the t-case, the t-case being the back 6 inches of your tranny. maybe its got a hole in it, or the drain plug is loose/gone?

Could be the engine's temp sensor, if its reading warm, it won't go into cold start enrichment mode.

Avoid hydroscopic body fillers, they absorb water and harbor rust, use professional body filler, its better as it doesn't absorb water, and won't create new rust problems.

Here's the solution

Axles from the auto stores are hit or miss, GCK seems to make good ones, and MWE, a small rebuilder in Colorado does good work.

Its got some data recording functions, havn't really played with it much, but it does have a computer interface so i'm hopeing i can export stored data from it onto the computer where it will be easier to read. I still need to figure out everything it can do, but so far it seems to be a good mix of not too expensive, but still usefull enough to actually do real diag with, as opposed to just read codes.

I do have a lift kit, and going from 175/60R13's to 28" swampers my speedo is way off.

Yeah it will, ask the cop that gave me an 85 in a 60, my speedo said 55

my 96 does not have one either, which is scary, cause i apparantly have a 13.5 gallon tank, and i regularly fill it to 14.5 gallons

its not the level, its the acids that build up in older oil.

Yeah, we have a matco truck that comes every week, he's much more regular than the snapon guy, he shows up maybe once every 2 months, and he wonders why we all buy matco and not snapon. The scanner is a MT9001, havn't needed it at work yet, but i did get it at 4 on friday afternoon.

So, the Matco man was very persuasive in his sales pitch today, so i now have a pretty nice OBD II scanner, which can do more than the standard autozone bit. So, anyway, if anyone needs their 96 and up Subie read for codes, i'm your man. I also do brakes and axles I work for Beer and cookies.

My .02 is that your battery is toast, check your battery voltage, engine off, if its below 11 volts, its draging your voltage down as its so discharged that your alt can't keep up. worst case it will fry your new alternator. I've had this happen at work a couple of times. Also make sure your battery connections are good, tight and clean, also your fusible links should also be clean and tight. Check for resistance between the battery and the frame, and also from the battery to the alternator power terminal.

Should be able to lengthen the shaft like on the 3 inch lift from PK, you will also need to extend the brake lines, and a few other wires and hoses to make everything work.

I went from SPFI to weber, to weber on a built EA-81, what am I running now? the EJ22, the SPFI was great, and had there been a new EA-82 underneath it with good compression, i might have had a good running rig, but i meddled, and put on a weber, so that when i put in the EA-81 i wouldn't have to redrill the distributor, well, going from SPFI to weber was the biggest mistake i made in my subaru journey. i've not gone from a hitachi to a weber so i can't say anything about that, but it would seem anything is better than the hitachi. The weber is great, but it won't fix engine problems, will get less fuel economy unless its tuned right, and as Snowman said, there finiky on cold days. If you have the time and the patience, i'd say an SPFI swap is a better choice, or even the EJ22 swap.

Hate to poop on your popcicle, but the engine has plugs that allow the pistons to be pulled without pulling the motor, and the body has holes that allow the head bolts to come out for the same reason. "amatures" tend to pull more than they need to, which makes the final job easier, but takes much more time, professionals pull as little as possible, and are only slightly inconvienienced by reparing heads and possibly pistons in car. And really the piston isn't really bottom end is it? i mean, theres no bearings on it are there?

I have a red top in my 88 EJ swapper, and it went through cranking for a few weeks when i was trying to get the wiring right, and when i finally did, it caught on the first revolution. when i get a winch i'll probably get a yellow top, just cause it makes sense for the winch, but i've had nothing but good luck with the red top, that and the spec batter comes with 450 CCA and the red top is 950. sure helps on cold mornings when you want to move the car around the block on starter power.

Have them boroscope your cylinders to see if you have bent valves, won't be 100% but they should be able to tell if anything major has broken or bent. 750 for timing belts had better include seals, waterpump and an oil pump reseal, thats kinda steep for just the timing components It does sound like you've jumped timing, and have bent valves, at least in one head, so it may be better to take that 750 and put it towards a new motor.

Only thing you can do is drill, retap and incert a specific spark plug heli-coil. best way to do this is to remove the head, but i've seen it done on fords at my shop without removing the head, it takes a special tool, but it works.

I've heard great things about Raamat, and i believe he's on Nasioc, and owns subies.

I'll second the Silicone

Nothing better than comeing home after a long road trip.

The jiggle pin, and the drilled hole in its stead, is to help get the air out of the system, as air pockets are bad for cooling and can produce localized hot spots.