inkedmike73

Thanks for that link! I read some before I posted but a couple other links in there didn't work. But I did send a message to one of them! Gloyale wouldn't send! :/ And which Honda springs from the front or rear?

Okay so I'm wanting to know if anyone knows what suspension parts I can use on my ea82 loyale to lift it easily. I'm not trying to lift it but maybe 2-4 inches. Is there struts from another vehicle that can assist? Or ones that would just be better than the stock? If there aren't maybe some strut spacers that can be found. (Cause I can't find them) Any suggestions or questions about the car please help a guy out.

Hey everyone, I've got my '92 Loyale Wagon up and going and I want to start moding it for off-road. The only thing is, I can't find places or websites to get exactly what I want. So I'm on here asking for some help. LOL. Here is a small list of what I'm trying to accomplish. First is a Snorkel, I think I can manage this with some PVC pipe and a saw. Next a nice and sturdy roof rack. Rear bumper with spare tire and jerry can holder Similar to a Jeeps Smitybilt. Suspension lift kit or custom lift. Under Engine protection plate for off-roading. Some wheels that are larger than 13" and are 4x140 lug pattern or an adapter kit. Dual exhaust or just a replacement. Mines in pieces! I think that's it for now. So can anyone help me out? Thanks SOOOOO much! -Mike

Scoobie is on to something there. Sounds like the hoses nay not be connected right! For fan issues. I have the same only operating on 3&4 the only thing I know is the resistor that makes sense! I dont have old junk yards so I'll have to buy new but online they are only about $30! Once that is replaced ou should get all 4!

I think I am almost there to getting this 1992 Loyale back up and running. I had diagnosed this engine as a broken timing belt and it was. The Driver side belt was majorly broken. However, I got the new belts on and the timing seemed to be weird and I can't get it to fire up. The pass. sides seems like it is firing but the driver side is not. It's getting spark and fuel and compression. but no combustion. Per Chiltons guide I lined up the dots to the top of the timing backing and the crank sproket dot up as well. but the driver side 2/4 is fouled by fuel, well cylinder 2 is. I didn't check c4. Compression is abour 150 psi and holds. (no leakage) Chilton siad something about applying pressure while setting the timing belt, but if I did that then it would not be on it's mark. So is there anyone out there that has done this repair and knows the exact thing to do to make sure this thing is in time? I've made sure that the engine was at TDC beore I aligned the cams. Thanks for your assistance! -Mike

Okay I want to thank everyone and your help thus far. I ordered a new timing belt set after doing a comopression check and the driver side was not getting any compression. Why I didn't think about that first IDK. When I got the timing belts off the driver side was missing many teeth and many more fell off. The passanger side was not bad but there were cracks in it. Now I used the Chiltons guide for the timing marks and lined up the Crank Sproket Dot Up, and both Cam Sproket Dots up as well. Just like the book said. Cranked and it sounded weird and did no start. Checked compression and pass. side got up to 150 psi and driver side up to 90 psi. Double checked the timing and it was not right. Removed timing belts from Cams and turned crank for TDC (checked with TDC whistle indicator) Then I lined up the Cams (Dot up). Cranked and still no start. Checked compression - this time better. 150 psi both sides after a couple turns. Checked spark plugs. pass side seems to be firing but driver side has a wet plug. Fouled by fuel. Checked for spark to plug and I'm getting spark to the plug but maybe not through the plug. Chiltons said something about applying pressure on the cams while putting the belt on. Does this mean to turn the cam past the alignment mark into the springs of the valves then slide the belts on? That just didn't make sense as then it would be a little advanced. I also plan on getting new NGK plugs, the current ones are new but they are bosch. (sorry Cougar, I didn't buy them, the previous owner did thinking he could fix it) I can't think of anything else. I've not tried starter fluid because of the driver side being covered in fuel. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I need to get this thing running so my friend can have a car to drive as his grandmother passed away and they had to sell her car. I'm doing this as a favor, but when he gets a car I know the Subaru will be much fun to have. Thank you all! -Mike I have also posted this in the older generation to get some more responses. Your guys' info has helped the best so I thank you! I'm glad that I was able to describe it properly and so far it has been exactly as you have described.

Okay I want to thank everyone and your help thus far. I ordered a new timing belt set after doing a comopression check and the driver side was not getting any compression. Why I didn't think about that first IDK. When I got the timing belts off the driver side was missing many teeth and many more fell off. The passanger side was not bad but there were cracks in it. Now I used the Chiltons guide for the timing marks and lined up the Crank Sproket Dot Up, and both Cam Sproket Dots up as well. Just like the book said. Cranked and it sounded weird and did no start. Checked compression and pass. side got up to 150 psi and driver side up to 90 psi. Double checked the timing and it was not right. Removed timing belts from Cams and turned crank for TDC (checked with TDC whistle indicator) Then I lined up the Cams (Dot up). Cranked and still no start. Checked compression - this time better. 150 psi both sides after a couple turns. Checked spark plugs. pass side seems to be firing but driver side has a wet plug. Fouled by fuel. Checked for spark to plug and I'm getting spark to the plug but maybe not through the plug. Chiltons said something about applying pressure on the cams while putting the belt on. Does this mean to turn the cam past the alignment mark into the springs of the valves then slide the belts on? That just didn't make sense as then it would be a little advanced. I also plan on getting new NGK plugs, the current ones are new but they are bosch. I can't think of anything else. I've not tried starter fluid because of the driver side being covered in fuel. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I need to get this thing running so my friend can have a car to drive as his grandmother passed away and they had to sell her car. I'm doing this as a favor, but when he gets a car I know the Subaru will be much fun to have. Thank you all! -Mike NorthWet"How did you see the valves move on 1/3 side? Did you pull the cam cover? The "sounds like it might start" is common with 1/3-side timing belt failure... and with loose distributor rotor. (You did actually grab the rotor and see if it could be turned or removed, right?)" --- I saw the valves move when I was rotating the motor and had the spark plug removed. But only on the 1/3 side. not the 2/4 side. After was when I did the compression check. and yes I actually check the distributor and tried to turn the rotor. it doesn't come off easily.

When cranking the motor turns and sounds like it might start. With a spark test light on cylinder 1 and 3 I get a bright light indicating spark. and on cylinder 2 and 4 it is very dim. it doesn't sound like it is firing either just as if it's missing spark or fuel. It also sounds like it's only getting half combustion. That's why I'll be checking that tomorrow. The parts came from Napa, usually okay but I know not the best.

Cylinders 1 and 3 on the passenger side and 2 and 4 on the drivers side. (IE distributor side) I only saw the valves on cylinder 1 moving so I'll have to check on the other side as well. No one has replaced the belt yet, so I doubt it has slipped to 180 deg. off. But I will remove those plugs to check the belts.

Checked that, it is tight.

Thanks, I've posted it there now and I will check that as well!

Hello new friends, I have recently purchased a 1992 Subaru Loyale 1.8L on-demand AWD 5 speed with 143k from a friend. It is not in running condition and when it died it just stopped with no sign or reason. Before I purchased it they tried replacing the following Spark plugs Wires Distributor Button Cap Coil The car stopped running back in November 2012 and hasn't started since. I've spent 3 hours on this already and am ready to be done. I've double checked the timing of cylinder #1 and the distributor. They are in time and I get a strong spark to cylinder #1 and #3 however, I get a very weak signal to the other side #2 and #4. I'm confused by this, I even replaced the CAP again and same thing. I haven't tested compression yet, but I was able to see the intake valves on #1 while turning the motor for TDC (via TDC whistle indicator). and I haven't tested for proper fuel pressure, however we get a nice steady flow. The motor does not sound like it has loss of compression, but doesn't sound 100% when cranking. \ I assumed that it was flooded so it has been aired out. I will test for compression and injector pulse tomorrow. Could it be possible that if the #2 and #4 timing belt is broken that it would give a weak spark? I haven't pulled the covers yet, because it is a little intensive to pull those things. lol. The car is still at my friends Apartment so this is all being done onsite, not in a garage. Any info would be great. This is my first boxer motor and I'm very excited about the Journey we will have together. again thank you new friends -mike

Hello new friends, I have recently purchased a 1992 Subaru Loyale 1.8L on-demand AWD 5 speed with 143k from a friend. It is not in running condition and when it died it just stopped with no sign or reason. Before I purchased it they tried replacing the following Spark plugs Wires Distributor Button Cap Coil The car stopped running back in November 2012 and hasn't started since. I've spent 3 hours on this already and am ready to be done. I've double checked the timing of cylinder #1 and the distributor. They are in time and I get a strong spark to cylinder #1 and #3 however, I get a very weak signal to the other side #2 and #4. I'm confused by this, I even replaced the CAP again and same thing. I haven't tested compression yet, but I was able to see the intake valves on #1 while turning the motor for TDC (via TDC whistle indicator). and I haven't tested for proper fuel pressure, however we get a nice steady flow. The motor does not sound like it has loss of compression, but doesn't sound 100% when cranking. \ I assumed that it was flooded so it has been aired out. I will test for compression and injector pulse tomorrow. Could it be possible that if the #2 and #4 timing belt is broken that it would give a weak spark? I haven't pulled the covers yet, because it is a little intensive to pull those things. lol. The car is still at my friends Apartment so this is all being done onsite, not in a garage. Any info would be great. This is my first boxer motor and I'm very excited about the Journey we will have together. again thank you new friends -mike