GeneralDisorder

Yeah - I would swap the alt and see what's up. There should be no drain through the alternator. GD

That tool will not help you. You will have to get into the wheel bearing if you want to get the hub off. Basically the removal of the hub requires that you apply forces to the wheel bearing that will warrant its replacement. Look at some of the threads concerning wheel bearing replacement and specifically my reccomendations on the use of the Harbor Freight FWD Bearing Adaptor set. Using that you can get the job done for about $150 or so. GD

Right - but the TSK1 is for the older push clutch. TSK3 is for the '05+ *turbo* push clutch. They may interchange in practice but that's what the various web site's that sell them claim..... both are for push clutch systems. TSK2 is for the pull-clutch. http://www.smart-service.com/store-tranquil-sleeve-kit.html GD

I have personally done probably half a dozen clutches with varying levels of quil wear - I have never used a quil repair kit. I have sometimes greased them really well, and lately I've taken strips of 120 grit and sanded them down smooth again. In every case you could not feel anything unusual in the clutch after the repair. Typically strange clutch feel or weird pedal behavior is due to a bad slave cylinder, poor flywheel surface, or a cheap pressure plate. In my '91 turbo I also found that the rubber pad that acts as a stop against the CC switch/bolt on the pedal box was compressing with age and allowing the pedal to travel too far upward - causing it to slap the bottom of your foot on release. Some adjustment fixed that "feel" problem. GD

I would say the number of EJ swaps is probably approaching well over 100 nation wide. Possibly a lot more. It's getting very common. This weekend there were probably 20 of them just at the West Coast Subaru Show. Hell I even brought one myself in addition to my EJ turbo. The wireing is the biggest issue for most people. There's about 4 or 5 of us that offer services at varying levels to strip wireing harnesses and make them easier to install - but none of us can make them plug-and-play because of all the variations of installations out there. You still have to know how to hookup 12v to the harness safely and properly fused, etc. Complexity makes it harder for people to finish - I would guess that something like 25% of the people that seriously start collecting parts for an EJ swap actually complete it *themselves*. Some of the rest seek assistance by towing it to people like myself, Gloyale, ShawnW, and Numchux who have done many of these. Just an FYI - it's rarely less than $1000 for me to "fix" someone's nightmare that's half f'd up and half incomplete. MPFI is the way to go - there is nothing to be scared of or to "not trust". That's fear talking and a lack of knowledge. Once you go fuel injection and you really understand it and how it works - you will never go back to carbs. GD

If you are set on using that engine - the first step is to go to the dealer and order EVERY coolant hose used in the engine bay. Then get a dual-core or larger radiator, an intercooler, and DO NOT turn up the boost. GD

Concur with above - and that's why we are all going to the Toyota transmission using a bell-housing adaptor. GD

The part of the input seal that you are apparently concerned with is not the lip that creates the seal - that's just a dust gaurd for the real lip which is actually closer to the back of the seal and has a spring around it. You'll see when you get it off. You can go with one of the online dealers like www.subarupartsforyou.com or www.1stsubaruparts.com, etc. Make sure you are prepared to install that bearing - it will take a press or a three-jaw puller to remove it and then reinstallation can be done with a suitable driver tool. GD

All dealer only parts. Thats the most common bearing failure on the 5MT. The bearing is about $65 and you will need to replace that plate. As I recall there are 0, 1, and 2 variants of the plate - you have a 2 there so that's what you will replace it with. Get new seals for the input shaft, and both front axlr stubs. GD

Unlike Dave - I just keep a slave in stock for the occasional failure - but they do fail often enough after engine/clutch jobs to warrant me keeping one in stock . You should not have to bleed it if it's working now - just unbolt and lay to the side as you did. If you have compressed the slave then the pedal could go to the floor the first time or a couple times before it posistions itself correctly. If you do have to bleed it - push the pluger in and clamp it there while you are bleeding. Otherwise air bubbles will get stuck in the slave and never come out. GD

I would not let clutch doctors touch an EA81..... they are..... "special". Subaru's of that vintage are not like any other cars on the road. I have seen the kind of work those idiots do and they have probably never seen an EA81 before. And I cringe at the thought of what parts they would use . Your call though. I understand your concern with getting it into gear, etc. I could arrange to tow it here but that would likely be another $75 or so. GD

As GG said - "70% power" is a meaningless figure..... for starters - 70% of what? Are they saying that one cylinder is 30% lower compression than the other's or are they saying it's 30% lower compression than and ideal figure of 185 psi at sea level.... or is that percentage from a leak-down test... and if so where is it leaking? Rings or valves? Not enough information. If (as I suspect) it's just some leaky valve seats - keep running it. If and when it gets bad enough - do a valve job and drive it more. GD

This Brat was built by a board member a few years ago - it's got an EA82T in it. GD

Yeah - I can do an EA81 clutch in my sleep. Get a clutch kit and bring it on down to my place in West Linn (Portland Suburb). Probably be about $200 labor if you want me to do it for you, or $100 to have me "help" you do it yourself and use my shop/tools/etc. Give me a call at 5o3-88o-4o84. GD

It's got 90 HP..... it's not going to be fast unless you put in a larger engine. GD

Yeah - it has a mitsi logo on it. Generally located right above the hood release cable bracket above the driver's left knee. GD

You can get one much cheaper from the dealer if you buy one for a DL non-turbo (oil pressure switch instead of sending unit). I think I payed about $115 for the last one I bought. GD

The Fuel Pump Control Unit - they made them in variety's that control the fuel pump only (blue box), and one's that controlled the fuel pump AND the electric choke (black box). GD

Go with an Exedy kit from Amazon. Best prices and highest quality (OEM). It is doubtful that you actually need a quill repair kit. If the grooves are too deep for your liking just take some 120 grit and sand it till the transistions are smooth. I have seens some grooves that looked scary but a few minutes with some careful sandpaper work and all was well (and still is with new clutch kit installed). If you *really* do need a repair kit then I wouldn't trust one of those cheapies with a paper-thin sleeve (because your quil has MAD grooves in it if you *really* need a kit - worse than I've ever seen) - get one of the actual REPAIR kits with a removeable sleeve, etc: http://www.subaruwrxparts.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=1793&idcategory=235 GD

You can swap over to the black FPCU and run the wire for the choke control to the carb - then you can eliminate the ECU. GD

FWD fuse cures torque bind = Duty-C is working. = flush tranny multiple times and possibly add Trans-X. Try replacing the ignitor - see if that cures the cylinder miss. GD

'92 has hydro lifters. One of the reasons that folks around here own cars that old is because: 1. They are cheap to buy. 2. They are very reliable. 3. They are cheap and easy to work on YOURSELF. You can easily do a valve job for about $400 including a complete 60k service, new hoses, belts, etc and probably run it another 200k miles. A head resurface and valve job runs about $160 at my local machine shop on the gen-1 EJ22E heads. If you can't repair your car yourself then you probably should just get a newer car that has a warrantee and make a car payment like most of America. GD

Hhhmmmm - I've seen Justy wheels installed on EA81's..... you sure the spline is the same as the EA82? GD

360k is just an arbitrary number - it's all about how the car has been driven and serviced up to this point. You could easily see another 120k out of that engine - a local board member just picked up a 2001 with around 470k (IIRC) on the original motor and it had just developed a rod knock. Learn to do the timing belt yourself and the kit will run about $120 off ebay. Keep driving it. I mean - don't you want to find out how long it will go? GD

On the EA82 it runs off the driver's side timing belt. There is no wireing or anything - it's entirely mechanical. GD