GeneralDisorder

There were three or four designs over the years - they are all equivelent and interchangeable though. GD

Neither are compatible. You can't cross the part-time/full-time/AWD boundaries with internals like that. There are select combinations that will work but you can't use the R&P set from an AWD trans in a part-time trans as the pinion shaft is completely different. Likewise the D/R input shaft and daughter shaft have nowhere to go in the EJ transmission so those also will not swap. If you want 3.9 in the RX tranny then you need the R&P set from a non-turbo EA82 transmission - but being that is an '85 RX tranny it's no differerent from the "normal" EA82 D/R except it's a 3.7 final drive with a 1.2:1 low range. No locking center diff and still capable of 2WD. Frankly that's pretty much a boat anchor because it's not a FT4WD w/diff lock (87+) and it's got really crappy low range and final drive..... at the point where you have the parts to make it decent you might as well keep the tranny you got the parts from and use that instead If you want an EJ tranny with D/R you have to get one from Europe. GD

I would pull that apart and redo all the splices properly - solder and heat shrink. That looks like a mess :-\. And yes - the d-base gods are angry again..... GD

Sounds like you need to check for ECU codes and figure out what's up with your wireing. It should not rev to 3k on startup - that's obviously something to do with your swap wireing. Is the OBD-II connector still present? Do you have a working CEL? Have you checked for codes? GD

Wow - I remember that. That was my first show - one hell of a drive as I recall. Funny seeing my wagon all stock and 2WD. It did have a Weber at that time though and I remember getting over 32 mpg on that trip GD

If I bring the hatch you guys have to promise to keep the freeway speeds manageable for me . I honestly have no idea what I'm driving. Might be the lifted hatch.... might be the SS.... hell it might be the 2010 Forester if I can't round up enough time to fix my own cars :-\. GD

You don't want to use WD-40 - it will evaporate. You need to use graphite. They make it in powdered form as well as a liqufied style that flows easily. GD

Pull the column covers and it should be obvious. GD

It sounds like the ignition *lock* has a problem, not the *switch*. Remove the lock, take it to a locksmith, and have it rebuilt and new keys made. (in the meantime - turn the switch with a screwdriver) Replace the switch with an OEM one from the dealer when you get the lock back - about $25. GD

What warrantee? How is anything "under warrantee" when it's got a swapped EJ22 in it ?!?! How many miles are on it? And how many of them are city miles? As I said - it may not only be the flywheel - the quill's get worn and do the same thing. GD

You can't buy a *true* XT6 pressure plate with the stronger spring pack from anywhere but the dealer that I have found - the aftermarket suppliers such as Exedy show the same kit for EA82, EA82T, and XT6.... so while you can *order* an XT6 clutch kit from anywhere - it will only be a true XT6 pressure plate if you get it from Subaru of America. And you are going to PAY for that extra clamping force - they are $165 for just the PP. And neither of mine are for sale.... The flywheel step thing..... supposedly the step for the EA82 is .900" and for the XT6 it's .815". However - every flywheel that I have measured has been .815". I don't know why that is exactly..... GD

There are no adjustments. You can bleed the slave cylinder, or replace it. Many of the later 90's early hydraulic slave cylinders are covered under a TSB that indicates they were manufactured with weak springs. A new slave cylinder is about $30 to $40. The shuddering could be partially related to a bad slave cylinder or it could be that your flywheel needs to be surfaced. It wouldn't be the first time I have seen a shuddering EJ clutch due to replacement without properly surface grinding the flywheel. It could also be a dry/worn transmission quill or fork pivot ball - those get dry of grease and their action becomes very sticky - resulting in shuddering or other poor clutch behavior. If the engine swap was done a long time ago or they didn't inspect and repair the clutch components as neccesary it might be a good idea to pull the engine out and check/adjust everything. People that let that kind of behavior continue too long are often rewarded with slave cylinder failure, or clutch fork breakage. GD

Hhhmmm - typically the solenoid is given a constant 12v and then the ECM controls the ground signal to the solenoid. If you choose to use a resistor in place of the actual solenoid - you can wire it in at the ECU instead of in the engine bay. It would be VERY rare to have an ECU failure of the driver circuit. It could happen but I've never seen it. I've seen a solenoid driver circuit burn out a transistor on a TCU but never an ECU. They are very, very reliable. GD

You can get a new cable from the dealer for $13. Takes about 24 seconds to change the cable. GD

Just cut the cotter pin off flush with the hex of the nut, get a breaker bar and a BIG cheater pipe and shear the pin off. It's easier than you might think . GD

Yes - you need to start a new thread. She (the original poster) no longer has this car and will not be able to help you. She (wisely) got into an EJ22 Legacy and now doesn't have to worry about swapping engines . GD

90 through 96 will directly bolt-up. 97 and 98 will require changes to the exhaust header as they are single-port heads. Otherwise those will work too. You could also use the 96 to 99 2.5 if you swap out your throttle body and intake manifold wiring harness or use the heads from the 2.2.... frankenmotor style. GD

Yeah - copper or brass will work. You see that a lot on German cars. Stainless bolts/studs with copper nuts. Neither will corrode but if you make them both stainless you will never get them apart - galling sucks. GD

Most likely power window stuffs - Subaru likes to hide them under the seats. GD

I am a member over on Nasioc (still GeneralDisorder) - so it's legit for Rob to enter the hatch I think. I'm sure somoene will let me know if it wins or something . I'm not over there too often. GD

There are only two possibilities. Either the radiator cap is bad and opening at too low of a pressure, or the head gaskets are bad and allowing exhaust gas to pressurize the coolant to much higher than the rating of the cap. It's almost always the head gaskets. Radiator caps are a pretty rare failure. It is not your water pump. If it were seized it would be makeing aweful noises and smoke from the burning belt. Not to mention it wouldn't last more than a few miles. GD

It was a brand new pump from the dealer - along with reman lifters from Mizpah, new pump seals, and new cam tower o-rings. Like I said the only thing that hasn't been changed is the relief valve springs. The ticking did go away for quite a while. But it has returned apparently. My feeling is that the lifter buckets are worn. GD

Hard to say - when it starts to overheat and the heater core goes cold - is it displacing the coolant into the overflow bottle? If so then either the radiator cap is bad or there is exhaust gasses pressureizing the coolant. That is a typical failure mode for head gaskets. If that's the case you can gain some time by gutting the thermostat but it won't be a permanent repair. Problems of this nature are almost never the water pump. Water pump failure is almost exclusively either leakage out the weep hole or complete sezuire of the pump. GD

It's wear. Plain and simple wear. Both in the bottom end and in the lifter buckets in the heads. With that engine there is nothing more to be done - new oil pump, seals, and reman lifters. It's going to do what it wants without a complete tear down and rebuild. The one thing you might try is replacing the banjo bolt relief valve springs in the cam spray bar. Could be weak and I never replaced them. GD

13 Ohms eh? That's pretty strange - check your meter against the 47 Ohm resistor you bought..... GD