GeneralDisorder

Yes - you are correct. I was merely informing the OP that it's possible - I revised my first post to reflect the vague nature of my knowledge of how high it would go should he do it. GD

It is best to pull the engine, but it can be done with some difficulty without pulling it. The work itself is not challenging if you work slowly and carefully. Mostly it's cleaning and prepping for new gaskets that takes the most time. You can rent an engine hoist for very cheap - probably in the $25 per day range. Thus you could rent one on Friday morning, pull the engine, run the heads down to a machine shop to have them resurfaced, and then put it back in again on Saturday. Rental on the hoist will probably be a minor expense in the scheme of things - $50 for a couple days. Pulling the engine and putting it back in is relatively easy. I can leisurely pull an EJ engine in 1.5 hours. If I'm trying to show off probably 30 to 45 minutes if nothing strange crops up like a stuck lower bell-housing nut..... I don't like to sweat and throw tools around like a mad-mad though so I usually take my time and organize parts/tools as I go to maintain a clean work area, etc. GD

I suppose it depends on how many splines you skip. I remember a local guy here a few years ago used that method on his wagon and it was slightly higher than the 3" blocks he had in the front. Perhaps he skipped two splines on the reclock. I only saw the end result - I wasn't present for the actual procedure. GD

Only one of the stubs from the early VLSD is the correct unit. The other will not work as it has an extra splined section on it. That part is about $100 each from the dealer and they don't have any in the US which means it's probably not availible at all. GD

Any radiator cap should do. Cost of a HG change - if you are not doing it yourself - will very likely be approaching the value of the car. $1500+ at the dealer. Independant shops will be closer to $800 to $1000. If you do it yourself it can be done for around $100 in parts if you are reusing the timing components, etc. GD

The shop always does that for me. GD

Snout repair is sometimes applicable. I have gotten away with just filing down the rough transitions and sanding the snout smooth on more than one occasion. A liberal application of grease helps also. Usually they aren't so bad that you can't work around it if you are careful. GD

Radiator cap or head gasket. Classic symptoms. GD

What size tires are you running? GD

Converting is fine and dandy if the measureing device has enough inherent resolution to convert - when going from standard to metric it's important to remember that a thousandth of an inch (.001") is still over 2.5 hundredths of a millimeter (.0254 mm). Since most everything in a Subaru engine is measured on the hundredths of a mm scale.... having a Mic. that reads in thousandths of a mm is preferable for accuracy and simplicity. The shims for valve adjustment are availible in .01 mm increments (or was it .005 mm increments?) in any case it's just easier to stay metric the whole time. It prevents errors from creeping into your calculations. GD

Sure - 6207-2RS is the sealed bearing. But it's not a perfect solution. Especially for a lifted off-roader where you should really be running 7207's (which don't come as a sealed variant AFAIK) for maximum load handling capability . GD

Nope - not without making them yourself. None of the stock springs or struts will lift the front. The rear is easy - you just clock the torsion bar down a spline or two - its a "suspension" lift and can be adjusted with the adjuster bolt and how many splines you move the trailing arms... But you better also drop the diff if you don't want to break axles and you will have to go to the Rancho shocks. The front must be lifted with blocks on the stut towers, or strut tube extensions.... etc. GD

For EA82's the answer is yes. For EA81's there does not exist a stock axle that will match this combo - you have to build your own. GD

'99 was a bad year for center diff's. I've seen/heard of quite a few failures. The last one I replaced - the spider gears were so far gone in the center diff that they demeshed and the car wouldn't move. Made some really, really aweful noises. Center diff was the *only* problem with it. Another member here is using that transmission with a good center diff from another '99 transmission with a broken reverse gear tooth. GD

They look expensive from their web site - but I'm used to NW prices. I get EJ22's for $450 with 12 month warranty's, 5MT's for $350, and 4EAT's for $250 from my local yard - all tested and warranted. My machine shop does rebuilt EJ25D's for $1295 with core....... GD

It will not fit a '99 Imp. Different body entirely GD

Any 90 through 94 *Legacy* (Not Loyale's) ECU will work. AWD/FWD and automatic/manual don't matter. The ECU doesn't care about the former, and the latter is determined by a ground pin on the harness not by the ECU itself. If it were me I would open the ECU up and see if it's just a bad trace or solder joint or obviously burnt transistor/cap. The Japanese solder tends to corrode and shrink over time and that is the biggest cause of electronics failure among Subaru's, Honda's and Toyota's. Mitsubishi just uses junk caps that leak and burst all over their boards..... lowest bidder components GD

85.... maybe 90 with a good tail-wind and a Weber. 750 rpm. GD

They are NOT the same and that is why you should take note of which forum your are in before posting. You really think that a fuel injected '95 Legacy is going to act the same as a car a decade older and running a carb? Not likely. In your case, the green connectors are to put the ECU into diagnostic mode. Leave them disconnected as you obviously haven't the tools or knowledge to interpret diagnostic "D-Check" mode. GD

I would say that the green connectors causing your short *normally* should be connected. Probably a short in the switch or someone has monkeyed with the ignition lock, etc. Most of the rest of the connectors you labeled should not be connected to anything - manufacturers build far fewer harnesses than they do cars with different accesories and features - if you have a "feater poor" model then there will be dozens of connectors throughout the harness that are simply not used. For example - at least one or perhaps a couple of the connectors under your column are for pedal switches to disengage cruise control on the gas/brake pedals, or for a kick-down switch on the gas pedal for automatic transmissions. That said - the two single-pin blue's and the single pin green under the column are to reset the EGR reminder light every 60k miles in the gauge cluster. You swap out whichever of the female plugs is currently connected with the one that is not to reset the light for another 60k. In short - don't worry yourself about orphan harness connectors - when you find a DEVICE that is not connected to the harness you can start asking legitimate questions. GD

Get a pressure tester and test the system as well as the cap. Compression tests are useless for head gasket checking....... in fact they are mostly useless in general except to identify a cylinder with a problem *in comparison* to other cylinders and as a general pass/fail check to see if an engine has enough compression to even run. They are highly dependant on too many factors to make their numbers "publishable" on this site or any other. The numbers cannot be compared to any other engine. GD

I *think* the chime is somewhere behind the glove-box or between the glove box and radio area..... somewhere in there. GD

Pluger OUT turns the light on. So the light should be on all the time with the switch dismounted like that. Thus my question about the bulb being burnt..... GD

You need the knuckle. You have to use the seal that matches the axle.... but I can't recall if the seal will fit the knuckle or not. The EA82 seal is too large for the seal surface on the EA81 axle. It will go together but you will not have any inner wheel bearing seal as there will be a large gap. GD

It's a trade off. I get my wire splice locations in different spots than you do. It's all about what gen EJ harness you are using and where it comes through the firewall, etc. I've done exclusively EA81 chassis swaps and I like that I can get tach, and ignition switched power from the old coil wires - I use the ignition switched coil + wire to hot-up my new fuse panel for the EJ harness. The fuel pump I intercept at the connector that goes from the dash harness to the rear body harness at the passenger kick panel. ECU, etc goes in the glove-box where it's high and dry. Only things I get from the cluster area are the start signal, the VSS and the neutral switch if I'm using a clutch switch in place of..... Everything else is in the engine bay and I route the needed wires to labeled terminal strips. This keeps all connections and electronics above or at the level of the air intake.... since most of the one's I've done have been off-road machines in one form or another. GD