GeneralDisorder

Yeah - that's what I'm considering with my t-cased hatch. R180 diffs with male DOJ's for added strength. Just have to find the right combo of joint parts to make them go together. GD

No. You need an Exedy KSB04. Amazon has the best price. About $145 - you aren't going to find a complete kit for much less and if you really cheap out you may regret it's performance. Have the flywheel surfaced - about $25 to $30 at any machine shop - a good shop can do it while you wait. GD

I beleive the MAP is actually part of the TCU's assortment of sensors and it's input is then also routed to the ECU..... the ECU itself has no MAP sensor that is external so if it's not the one on the passenger side strut tower then the ECU must have an internal MAP that is bad. Though I have never seen nor heard of this happening before. GD

Cold, thick gear oil may mask a rear input shaft bearing for a few minutes. It definitely could be the center diff. Replace it and see. GD

That's it - the black switch is the 4WD indicator swith. The Lo range switch is inside the transmission. Are you positive the bulb isn't burnt out? GD

Probably the switch that turns on the key-in-ignition warning chime..... Makes sense because that's a constant-hot circuit. The chime needs to function with the ignition off.... GD

I use a digital caliper most of the time but I use vernier (metric) Mic's. Anything that needs to be measured in tenth's (metric tenth) I don't trust digital unless it's expensive like Starett and Mitutoyo, etc and I've calibrated it against a standard. GD

You have to be aware that if you use EA82 knuckles the inner wheel bearing seal is not the same between the two and must be changed. Tie rod ends will not swap as they are too long on the EA82's. GD

Subaru OEM. Best deal going by far. They are made by Valley. GD

The cowl right behind the hood is the HVAC intake. GD

So you have pulled all the buckets and shims from the heads? Did you mark where they came from? GD

Sounds like either a wheel bearing (unrelated) or the rear input shaft bearing on the tranny. Those often fail. GD

You can easily replace the bearing - most likely the rear input shaft bearing. The syncro's are harder to replace but can be done if you have the right tools. Of course that doesn't make it any easier to install. GD

For the most accuracy you really need a metric Mic. You can convert back and forth but it's a pain. Mitutoyo is my preference for quality and cost. GD

Both will require custom hoses but yes they can be hooked up. GD

IIRC that circuit also feeds to the radio - if you have an aftermarket radio check for poorly wired connections - something may have come loose and is grounding out. GD

Yes - get the short air filter if it's not lifted (about $15 to $20 from EMPI, etc), and add the spacer under the carb. Give the engine a little more ignition advance if it will take it also - 10 degree's, etc. Also if you find a good 2WD distributor (Nippon) the cap has more favorable locations for the wires. With a little thought the plug wire near the choke housing problem is easily solved. If that's all that "He who's name shall not be mentioned" screwed up on your car you are a lucky man! GD

You can swap in the whole transmission from the '98. GD

I always have custom power steering lines made.... the PS system runs at about 600 to 1200 psi on the high pressure side.... best not to F around with pressure's like that. Last set I had made set me back about $75 including hoses, fittings, and welding on matching bits to the hard-lines of each. GD

Better option is to use the male axle DOJ's - they are not hollow like the bolt-in stubs. Much stronger. GD

Was the check engine light and OBD-II port properly hooked up? What, if any, codes does it indicate? Your problem sounds like a sensor issue - CTS, etc. It does not sound fuel pump related to me. The fuel pump is located on a shelf in front of the tank under the car. The pressure regulator is part of the EJ251 and located on the fuel rail after the last injector in the passenger side. GD

The EJ heads rarely crack. Unless I suspected it had happened I wouldn't even bother to check them. My machine shop says about 1 in 100 might have a small crack. Dubious as to if it would even matter. I take the risk of not checking and I've done many dozens of head gaskets and I've never put a head on and found out later it was cracked. GD

That looks great. I always go over the gasket surfaces with a clean shop towel (the blue paper one's) and lacquer thinner and allow to dry immediately before gasket installation. GD

The close proximity of the plug wire can be mitigated by using the Hitachi's phenolic spacer under the adaptor as well as gaskets on either side of it - makes the whole assembly taller. Also the manual choke variant of the Weber fits without interfering with the disty like that at all. GD

Rear fuel filter - often neglected. GD