GeneralDisorder

You are going to want to put a heat sheild between the turbo and that steering joint and also wrap the turbo in a blanket and wrap the down-pipe. Otherwise you will cook that steering joint for sure. Temps near the turbo can easily hit 1600 *F and you will destroy the grease and little rubber seals inside the joint if you don't protect it. GD

Which is why a smart operation would put anything they snatch into a faraday cage for transport and dissasembly. GD

They all have the newer style tensioner in them Gary? GD

Being a '97 it would have the piston style tensioner - we don't typically replace those. They almost never fail. Tension is not really an issue since it's hydraulically controlled - there is nothing you can do about it. It is what it is. As long as you pry the tensioner fully to the left before locking it down and pulling the pin - you should be good. GD

I really don't know - I've never owned an SVX or wrenched on that portion of one..... Ask Turbone - he might know. GD

Your method does not guarantee proper input shaft alignment. You may choose to do it that way and it may work for you. That's fine. Many of us prefer to have more precise and immutable alignment between the two entities using the dowel pin locations provided on each. That is our choice. You have made your point clear. But it is the *opinion* of myself and probably many of the mods here as well as the members that your method is dangerous to preace to others as they may not utilize the concept correctly or with enough degree of accuracy based on your small, single sentance description to effectively accomplish a mating of EA and EJ components that will not result in damage to one or both. It is very likely that your poor communication skill and your personal attacks will in fact get your banned (again). Perhaps you can create a post or a web page somewhere that details this concept more fully - the how's and the why's - in order to show that it works and is safe - if it is and if that's possible to do so. GD

You have a wireing problem. GD

The whole assembly is wider and will not just bolt on. You will have to do some welding and fabricating to make it work. GD

It's carbon. All engines do that. GD

The pitch stopper is always a fabricated beast. And it depends highly on what body the adaptor plate will be used on. The studs don't need to be any specific length - just measure how thick the bell-housing of the engine or tranny (whichever is applicable for the hole) is at that point and make it about 1.25" to 1.5" longer to account for the thickness of the adaptor plate and enough extra to thread on a washer/nut combo. GD

Not to my knowledge. GD

I have used dozens and dozens of the ebay kit seals and haven't had a single failure. I use anaerobic sealant on the water pump - no gasket. Same for the seperator plate. Not a single failure to report. GD

By my estimate I have installed at least two dozen of the mizumoauto kits. I have not had a single failure or complaint. And that goes for their Honda kits as well. I buy enough parts to know what's quality and what isn't. I inspect each and every part for fitment and proper operatation before I hang it. I don't have failures. The one issue with the mizumoauto kits that I forgot to mention is that on the older style tensioner idler (the piston style used through '97) the bushing that goes through the idler and provides the eccentric for the idler is too short and thus is too tight once installed - not allowing the idler to rotate properly. This is not really an issue though since you just use the bushing from the old idler - they aren't a wear item. Beyond that and a single shipping error I have had no problems at all. I know that one of their kits I installed is approaching it's 60k interval on a '91 Legacy. The owner drives 160 miles a day and has racked up over 50k on the mizumoauto kit without incident. End of the day - they run just fine and save my customers money. That's what it's all about. I will continue to diligently inspect every component durring installation and if I find a problem or if I see a premature failure on any of the components be assured I will post here about it. GD

I get the EMPI boots for $12 each locally. So $24 for a single axle - $48 for both front axles vs. about $130 for two brand new EMPI axles. I don't reboot them very often unless they it's obviously a recent failure and the axle is otherwise sound. GD

Did I stutter? . NO GASKET. GD

You don't have to resurface the block nor do you have to pull the engine. This is about a $200 repair with all the seals, gaskets, timing belts, and resurfacing costs. Putting in a new motor because of a HG failure is silly. GD

To get 14" tires you will need 14" wheels - easier said than done on the 4x140mm stock lug pattern I'm afraid. Best option is to convert to 6 lug and then you can run a variety of Toyota and chevy truck rims, etc. GD

The ebay belts are fine for the DOHC. Use Anaerobic for the water pump - throw the gasket away. GD

Belt is usually fine - the oil runs down behind the covers. Cam seal, crank seal, or PS pump. GD

Cam seal. GD

Yeah - if you are pulling the transmission then it can be done at that time. GD

The lower nut on the starter (or bolt for 99+) can be a pain though usually is no trouble with a deep socket and 6" extension. Just get far enough back to clear the body of the starter. The biggest pain is the driver's side lower bell-housing nut. They are often REDICULOUSLY tight and are directly in front of the axle. Often I have to use 24" of extension, a wobbly (or wobbly socket), reducer from 1/2" to 3/8" and a 1/2" breaker bar to get them loose. So you are going to pull the engine twice? Seems like a bad plan. Exedy KSB04 is $145 with free shipping on Amazon...... yes they sell the alignment tool seperate - probably $4 or so. I don't use much RTV anymore.... personally I find that for the water pump and oil seperator plate the Loctite 518 or Permatex Anaerobic (red death we call it) works better and lasts longer. The lifter buckets may fall out when you remove the cams. Just be careful and note which one's go where. Razor blades, brown scotch-brite, and lacquer thinner. Craftsman will work fine. GD

Needs stickied..... GD

What do you mean by "check engine light" - you mean the "ECS" light? If that's the case then you have a feedback carb and it's located directly under the steering column - bolted to it in fact. They are not simple or easy to work with so I would advise just unplugging it and putting on a Weber or SPFI. GD

Actually I just went though this in my garage - unfortunately what you want to do will be impossible. The stubs are c-cliped in and while they will pry right out of the diff - they are not the same for right vs. left!! The passenger side is a normal stub but the driver's side stub has an extra, smaller diamter, splined section on the end of it that engages the LSD components - none of the newer axle's have this additional "early LSD" right side stub on the end of them - thus you could install them but the LSD would not function and the c-clip groove would not be in the correct place to snap into the diff - leading to the axle floating out of the diff and causing gear oil leakage. GD