GeneralDisorder

You have a grasp of the high/low engagement system, but what you haven't grasped is that the 4WD linkage is completely seperate at the REAR of the transmission. By decoupling the linkage in the way you have - you are able to switch it between high range and low range but you are not taking it out of 4WD. The stock linkage only allows 2WD high, 4WD high, and 4WD low. But in reality it IS possible to be in 2WD low. It's just not availible with the stock linkage setup. The high/low is done at the input shaft - either it's allowed to drive straight through (direct drive) in high range, or it drives through two sets of gear reduction's on a daughter shaft to the input shaft BEFORE any 1 through 5 gear reductions take place. The 4WD engagement system happens AFTER the 1 through 5 gears - essentially the pinion shaft that drives the front diff is either coupled to the rear drive shaft or is it not. These two systems are 100% seperate - you are only operating one of the two systems that is operated by the stock linkage. GD

Cool. Glad it was just a couple wires away from victory. No matter how many of these swaps I do it's always a small victory when they start for the first time . GD

Don't go to a parts store - go to a bearing supplier. Get 2 (two) 6207-2RS-C3 bearings. Yes there are two per knuckle. You should pay about $8 to $12 each for them at a bearing supplier vs. $25 each or so at an auto parts store. These are standard 6k series ball bearings and you can get them anywhere. You will want to go to the parts store for the seals. But those are cheap. GD

You will need a custom single peice driveline made as the overall length of the 5MT is shorter. This will run about $150 to $300 depending on the shop you go to and if you also need u-joints, new inner yoke's, etc. You will need a clutch consisting of the EA81 225mm flywheel resurfaced to .815" step, And a complete EA82 5MT clutch kit. Then you will need a custom transmission cross-member or buy a kit from Jerry (Bratsrus1 here on the board). He does kits for $100 plus shipping that includes modifying your cross-member and your linkage to bolt up to the EA81 body. Other than that - pretty much bolts in, yeah. GD

That solenoid is a pretty common failure though - the salvage one he got could be bad also. DMM would tell you in an instant..... GD

Totally - Grey with black rims. Definitely B. Age 31 GD

Only if you drive it on public roads. He never specified that it's not an off-road only application. In which case DOT regulations do not apply. But yes - it is against FEDERAL law to modify factory emissions equipment. Not that this law is enforceable in any way - but it does exist. GD

If you don't mind 20 mpg running in open loop then by all means leave it off. Pretty much defeats the purpose of fuel injection to have no O2. GD

No reason to not run them other than debris as you noted. The danger is the same as with the EA82.... you just need to carry a big C-clamp to compression the tensioner. The idlers and such all run sealed bearings..... GD

Yes the ECU can sense the load on a driver circuit - that is how it determines when solenoids fail, etc. Thus it can sense the load of a relay driver coil just as it senses a solenoid driver coil. Who knows what the ECU's programming would do without a fuel pump relay present...... Maybe nothing at all but i can tell you that few of us would know because we don't wire them like that! GD

Wire in a 33 Ohm, 5 watt resistor in place of the solenoid. Or any junk yard solenoid that tests to about 30 to 40 ohms. GD

I don't do anything special - I use Redline assembly lube for all engine bearing lubrication needs. I've installed Delta cams and havent had an issue. GD

If you guys don't hook up I'll try to make time to check it out. Give me a buzz if you need to - 503-880-4084. GD

ECU codes? Most likely not a fuel supply issue unless the pump is losing power somehow..... which is possible I suppose given how you claim it's wired. Why is the ECU not controlling the fuel pump relay? Perhaps the ECU is shutting off the injector pulse because it doesn't see a relay coil for the fuel pump - potentially a safety hazard in an accident if the fuel pump should continue to run thus the ECU's software shuts it down..... you haven't got it wired correctly so it could be anything! Get the wireing proper and find out if the ECU has any complaints - it's a self-diagnostic system. GD

I wouldn't worry about it - resurface the heads and put them back on. The mileage is not high enough nor the leakage severe enough to warrant the expense. Subaru exhaust valves exhibit that behavior but remember that the engine cycles very fast - the amount of actual leakage is very, very small - it may seem significant with your leak down tester but at operating speed it's pretty much inconsequential. Filling the chambers with fluid and seeing if they hold it is pretty much standard. That's how I was shown to do it also with industrial compressor's, etc. Though we used a solvent tank in our testing..... GD

Nominal clearance is .010" for exhaust valves. I wouldn't even worry about .008" until the next timeing belt change..... If they are under .008" I typically will make some adjustments but otherwise I just leave them alone. Intakes are a little loose actually as they are supposed to be .008" Remember that each .001" is actually 2.5 shim sizes (measured in hundredths of a mm) - so you have to go down 5 shim sizes to get from .008" to .010" GD

Looks to be an EJ205 w/4EAT in an EA81 chassis that's been "buggyfied". Some things are well done and others look to be a work in progress I would say..... lots of stuff about it that I don't approve of but looks like he's having fun with it . GD

The stock SPFI pump (the one on your Loyale) IS a 50 psi pump, though it is regulated to 21 psi via the throttle body pressure regulator on the SPFI. You can simply crimp the return line and you will see the pump's pressure capability on your test gauge. The 2.5 from that Imp is about a 165 HP engine. I have been involved with higher powered builds using the SPFI pump and have not had a single issue with them keeping up. We currently have a ~200 HP EJ25 in a Brat that is running the SPFI pump without issue. It is possible that your pump is weak but probably not. If fuel pressure is your problem then your fuel pressure regulator on the injector manifold is bad. GD

The "rythmic grinding" is definitely a wheel bearing by your description. You also need to replace your cone washers - they have been damaged by driving with the axle nuts loose. GD

If tapping the throttle makes the rpm drop part of the time then you have a freying throttle cable or worn out throttle shafts in the carb. Unfortunately the ECS light you mention means you have a feedback (computer controlled) carb. You will either have to pickup a factory service manual and get aquinted with its rather complex nature or consider swapping out the carb for a Weber or fuel injection. GD

Any ECU codes present? Sounds like the ECU is cutting off the injector pulse for some reason. GD

They should not be associated in the harness, no. GD

Yeah - either it's not as far off as you say, or something is wrong with your speedo head I would say. GD

Yeah my dealer said she could order them but had no gaurantee that the order would ever be filled. There are none in the US at this time. Here the price is about $104. Also only the "left" one is compatible. The "right" one is the one I mentioned that has the extra extened spline on the end. So you would need two lefts to make it work..... GD

Looks like you probably have a short to ground somewhere...... the weird part is that the high beam switch *should* be grounding the high beam bulbs - which should provide enough resistance to keep a direct short from occuring. You don't have anything strange going on with your inner headlight (the high's) wireing do you? GD