GeneralDisorder

Why doesn't he want you doing wireing? You aren't going to learn if you aren't allowed to screw something up - hell the engine is freakin shot so what's the big deal about hacking into the wireing a bit? And if he knows how to do it better than you then why isn't he helping you? The EA82T is a pile of steamy poo - if this doesn't convince him of that then I don't know what will. A little wireing is no big deal - especially when you stand to gain so much reliability and power. You don't even need to do the EJ22T - just a non-turbo EJ would be a lot more power than the EA82T ever made..... And besides all that - there doesn't have to be any modifications done to the car's wireing. You are just adding a fuse block, and a piggy-back harness. The car *could* be put back to bone stock if you do it right. Go to the junk yard, pull a harness, and strip it down yourself. Then bring it to your grandpa and show him that you have done the reasearch, stripped the harness, and know exactly what needs to be done. Take the initiative! GD

Ok I'll rephase that - no one makes the "kit" that was intended for EA81's anymore - at one time Metra did make a kit to mount an aftermarket two-knob cassette deck on the EA81's..... that's it and it's no longer being produced . The commonly used (and ugly as sin) kit is for the EA82's but requires hacking the hell out of the radio console and loseing the ashtray, etc. You can roll your own radio install using whatever you like but if you want it in the center console and you want more than a two-knob unit, and you would like it to look decent.... you will have to get creative. Here's the last one I did: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=115379 GD

Check the resistance of the sending unit both when it's at rest and when the engine is started and running. Watch what the resistance does - it should start out higher, and drop as the engine starts and the oil pressure rises, etc. GD

You are better off buying a reman carb than paying a mechanic (if you can even find one that could/would do it). Either that or consider swapping over to a Weber or the SPFI fuel injection system. GD

I retract my former analysis. That engine is toast. Ah..... the wiley ways of the EA82T. They sure have a way of sticking it to ya don't they? . Sorry about your situation - I think I warned you about this engine didn't I? I would say "sorry about your luck" but it's hard not to be unlucky with that engine. :-\ It takes a very special type of person to rebuild an EA82T and make it last. Sadly those of us that could do it have no desire to do it since we are awash in EJ parts. I counted just a few days ago and I have like 5 EJ22 short blocks in my shed.... not to mention a pile of EJ25D parts besides. GD

It's really not worth the effort - just replace the automatic. They rarely fail. If you want a manual it's typically better to just buy one that's already a manual. As far as AWD - all Subaru's are AWD starting in '96. And most were before that as well. Even if you swap to a manual - it will still be AWD. GD

Pull each plug wire, in turn, and see if it makes any differences. It does not sound like a rod knock to me - rod knocks are most audible when under a load - and usually they will make a "back rattle" when you rev the engine and quickly snap the throttle closed. It sounds mechanical and being you just had the engine out.... I'm also voting for something amiss in the bell-housing area. GD

No one makes a kit for EA81's. You will have to design your own. GD

About 1.5 to 2.5 psi. I think I said that...... You will need a VERY accurate gauge. GD

Ah yes - the 80/81 under-hood pump. It seems like many of these were converted - maybe by the dealer? You may have a weak fuel pump - I've seen a number of those under-hood pump setups that have been replaced. The factory Subaru fuel pumps develop very little pressure (about 1.5 to 2.5 psi) and when they get old..... you might want to check volume and pressure on it. Could be that the filter wasn't the only issue. GD

+1. And most good smith's can make you a key using any of the locks even without the code. I had that done recently on an '86 Mazda. The guy charged me the same $21 he charges for code-cut keys and then $3 for each copy - out the door with 3 new keys for $27. And he also mentioned to me that all Japanese cars have the code on the passenger door lock (I had brought in the trunk lock).... and all Korean cars have no code stamped anywhere . GD

It's a very common swap. I've done half a dozen of them myself. You should be happy you have the more reliable of the two. GD

The DOHC heads of the EJ20T will not fit between the frame rails of the EA81 chassis without modification. You will have to cut and box in the frame rails to clear the heads - it will also be really freakin hard to replace the spark plugs. If you put ~240 HP into a 5MT D/R you will destroy it. They were not meant for that. Besides the fact that this much power into a primarily front wheel drive transmission will make the Brat handle like poo and be very scary to drive. Trust me - I've done it with less power than that and the Brat's suspension (even with aftermarket sway bars on both ends, etc) is not up to the task. AWD is a much better choice - it doesn't load the suspension up like a FWD will and will be much more tame at the 200+ HP levels. GD

Call them and ask - I'm not a smith so I don't remember what the codes look like GD

Huh - that's weird because a friend of mine just did OB struts on his '92 LS and it had the cone shaped springs. We had to hunt down some '93/'94 top hats and used the OB springs on it..... but now that I think about it that car originally had air suspension so I guess it was just a case of what they happned to use to replace it with . GD

Any locksmith can code-cut you a key if you have the code from the passenger door lock. Going rate here for a code cut key is about $20. Keep in mind that someone may have changed the ignition lock. A good smith can re-key the ignition lock to match your door code also. GD

Cool - let us know how it goes for you. Just as an aside - if you pull the engine (and thus the manfiold harness) out of an OBD-II car and then turn on the ignition (to unlock the steering wheel and get the car out of park for example) - the fuel pump will click on and start dumping fuel on the ground till you turn off the key . I've had this happen a couple times to me. GD

Many ways - most of which have already been given to you. 1. Below the power steering pump on the top of the block will be a casting that will either be "EJ22" or "EJ25". This is by far the easiest way to tell. 2. EJ25's are DOHC. EJ22's are SOHC. It should be pretty obvious from the size of the timing belt covers. 3. Post a picture and let us tell you if you are indeed that helpless. GD

That would be a 90 to 94 Legacy trans...... why do you want to know the gear ratio's anyway? It is what it is.... GD

No - if it's for an EA82 it WILL NOT work on a Brat. Brat's have EA81's - completely differenent engine. You shouldn't beleive everything they say on ebay. Get the Fel-Pro head gaskets (Autozone, Rockauto, etc). BUY EVERYTHING ELSE FROM THE DEALER. There is no suitable alternative. Trust me. GD

There are grounds on the manifold side of the harness that may be important for ECU operation, etc. If you didn't have a manifold hooked to the harness - it will do strange things with the fuel pump. GD

Yeah - Ohms is resistance. I would have to look at my FSM to know what the resistance should be but it's going to depend on oil pressure which will depend on temperature and engine speed..... GD

Ah - excelent pictures. I've never seen one discolored that badly. Very informative. I always wondered what the outward signs of failure on one would be and I assumed it would be discolored from heat like that. Incidentally - based on the color that it turned - we can assume the temps were approaching 300* Celcius which is around 575* F. No wonder the guts are cooked . GD

Test light will work but it's not ideal for this kind of a problem since you can't accurately test the resistance of the sending unit. GD

Should have a filter/vapor seperator just to the inboard side of the driver's side strut tower. These only exist through 1984 (and through '87 Brat's and '89 Hatchbacks) - EA82's only have a single filter. GD