GeneralDisorder

Yes - if you pull the spade connectors out of the plastic connector on the EA81 harness they can just be slipped onto the Maxima alt male spade's. GD

Best bet would be some 6 x 139's with about the same offset as the Subaru wheels you have now. Isuzu, Toyota, etc are usually good choices - just have to drill out two holes. GD

You will have to thread the lower starter hole on the transmission and install a stud there - when they went to the 8-bolt bell housing they eliminated the starter mounting stud and instead put one of the 8 bolts in that same location. You will only use the top bolts and the bottom engine studs. You will have to retain the wireing and switches from the '97 as the '99 is likely going to have different plugs that don't match the '97 harness. As mentioned the clutch fork and pivot will have to be changed for the '97 cable stuff. It's pretty much a bolt-in though. I went the other direction recently - put a '97 tranny into a '99. Those '99 8-bolt transmissions are very expensive - got a great deal on a '97 with low mileage and a warantee so it made more sense to go that way. GD

I already told you - didn't you read my post? GD

You don't want the early turbo radiator - it doesn't have a radaitor cap . The cap on the early turbo EJ's is exclusively on the auxillery water tank. Newer turbo stuff (WRX, etc) have one on the radiator as well so you might consider one of those. Also Koyo makes an all-aluminium radiator for the early Legacy turbo that you could have a filler neck/cap added to by a radiator shop that can TIG weld. Good luck with fitment though - the Koyo is pretty thick IIRC. GD

Too big, wrong offset. Check the stickies and do some searches - this is all covered weekly around here. GD

On EJ25D's ('96 to '99 except '99 2.5RS and Forester which are EJ253's): You can inspect the edges of the head gasket to determine if they have been replaced with the upgraded gaskets. The first update was a 3-layer MLS gasket, while the most recent update is a 4-layer MLS gasket. Either of these are much better than the originals - the 4 layer being almost bullet-proof. I've never heard of one blowing out. On the EJ251/3 the problem is a poor sealant design on the head gasket's coolant and oil ports leading to external leakage - typically it's the left cylinder head that has the most problems. You cannot determine if these have been replaced but a careful inspection will usually show if the gasket is leaking. Look at the underside of the heads toward the back corner - oil and coolant at that point means they are weeping. In any case neither engine is of poor design or particularly bad from a reliability standpoint if the head gaskets are replaced. The EJ251/3 is a great engine IMO (especially the early 253 from '99 which makes 8 more HP than the 251 from '00 and up). I replace the head gaskets in these all the time - takes a couple days to pull the engine, tear it down, resurface the heads, and put it back - but the cost isn't very high in terms of parts. ~$500 with the complete timing set, belts, hoses, etc. GD

It really isn't important - just tighten with a 1/4" drive ratchet. Just make sure you have a good even bead of RTV around the plate. GD

. Yikes - that's a serious short. GD

You can make a Noid light easily enough - just a resistor and an LED. Couple bucks at Radio Shack and you would easily be in the know. GD

You should be able to get a flex line from any hose/coupleing supplier with NPT thread on either end. Then you can just adapt to what you have. You may consider replacing the tank check-valve at the same time - eventually the plastic check ball in them disintegrates - McMaster, Grainger, etc sell them. One thing that can really prolong the life of the single-phase motors and pumps with seperate start windings is to use the pressure switch contacts to cut the start windings as well as the power to the motor - this causes them to coast gently to a stop instead of engaging the centrifugal clutch as they spin down and using the start windings as an electric brake. This has the added effect that the contacts in the clutch are only arcing when they disengage on ramp-up and not on spin-down. GD

Typically it lasts a long time - no combustion gasses, etc like a gasoline engine. The splash-lubed machines need their oil changed more often as they typically have a lot of metal in the oil compared to pressure-lubricated machines. At the shop where I worked we would do an intial fill of SAE 10 (turbine oil) and run it for 8 hours straight at 100 psi. Then drain and fill with SAE 30 and we would reccomend it be changed every 100 hours of operation. More often if the conditions warrant (high humidity/low temp operation, dusty environment, etc). If you buy a new (quality) machine you should change the oil after the (relatively short) initial run-in period as there can be quite a bit of metal from the rings seating. GD

22B Impreza. GD

On the older SOHC engines all the head bolts are outside the valve cover. I do not dissasemble heads for resurfacing. The shop I take them to doesn't either. Never had any issues. It's much more economical to leave them together - especially for the later SOHC engines that have an RTV sealed cam case. GD

Ignition timing is no problem - you can use the infomation above about the marks being 6* off to reference where to set the distributor and also it's pretty easy to just stab the distributor in using the cap and the #1 TDC trick. Good enough for the engine to run anyway. Your real problem is the belts - if those are not correct - especially if you installed the belts using the ignition timing marks instead of the valve timing marks (that you don't have) you are going to have a real chore ahead of you. I would probably take a look at another EA82 and figure out where the valve timing mark is in relation to the crank nose - like on the EJ22 the timing mark is up when the keyway is straight down..... something along those lines. Unfortunately I'm not sure where the mark is in relation to the crank on the EA82 - I've never seperated the EA82 from it's flywheel since that's never typically needed. GD

The valve covers do not need to be removed but it makes getting to the head bolts easier. GD

You need to use the EA82 flywheel because it has different timing marks than the EA81 flywheel. Thus you are timing it with the wrong ignition marks. The EA81 flywheel also has no valve timing marks for installation of the belts. GD

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Looks like the aluminium seperator plate of the early 22's - the plastic one's are black. GD

What flywheel are you using? I'm assuming it is carbed? Are you having trouble with timing belts or ignition? GD

No need for plastic there - just bend a new section of pipe and replace the ferrules with brass. Looks like a simple and cheap repair. They may have used plastic/rubber to avoid spending more money on a flex line. That line really should have a flex joint in it. Having it hard-piped will eventually lead to stress fractures in the copper tubing. But whatever - it will work for a while. When it does break replace with a stainless braided flex-line. GD

Properly tuned a Weber will have negligable effect on MPG. How you drive it after the conversion might, but the carb itself will not cause more/less fuel to be used - that is based almost entirely on the engine mechanicals. GD

You may have pooched an o-ring installing that used injector - thats one of the major reasons I typically swap whole used rails from the junk yard - you get two good injectors and you don't have to touch any of the o-rings so very unlikely you will get a leak. GD

There's several threads on this in the retrofitting forum. Look there. GD

You can use black top or red top injectors as well - the red tops are the most reliable. GD