GeneralDisorder

Definitely want to flush out the core - pull the hoses off and flush it both ways with a garden hose. GD

This '96 I just swapped into runs GREAT on '87. I think there must be some differences in the GT gearing or the 2.5 torque converter because it accelerates much better than I would expect from a 2.2 auto in a heavy 2nd gen Legacy. I have access to the ECU for the 2.2 but I don't see any reason to change it. Not based on the performance I'm getting from the 2.2. It doesn't feel like it's pulling any timeing to me. Didn't know you could plug the OBD-II manifold harness into a 90 to 94 manifold.... guess it makes sense now that I think on it. I think only the Auto's had the EGR even in the early 90 to 94 OBD-I years. GD

That totally blows. I have to ask though - why didn't you purchase insurance for the return shipping? Was it just an oversight on your part thinking that the standard insurance would cover it? Sorry about your luck. That's a crock that it didn't fit. They must have built it using the wrong jig or something. GD

The Subaru CVT is different than any other CVT design I've seen in recent years. It's a chain-driven Reeves Drive. I don't think you can compare it to the other stuff on the market right now. GD

I just installed a '96 2.2 into a '96 GT that had a blown 2.5. It was totally simple. You need a '95 to '98 EJ22 intake manifold to go with that '94 engine - then it will bolt right in. If the 2.5 is in an automatic you will need a 2.2 manifold with EGR so you don't get a CEL. The '96 I found had the EGR so I was lucky - apparently it's a crap shoot from '96 to '98 but all the '95s have them. Also get the power steering lines for the EJ22 - the '94's lines might work but a '95 to '98 will work better most likely (I know for sure they changed the pump reservoir.... etc). Make sure to use the flexplate from the 2.5 if it's an automatic. Other than that it drops right in and looks completely stock. GD

None of my blocks are through-bolted and I prefer it that way. The through-bolt technique puts more stress on the capture nuts when the lift/block flexes off-road. I have never ripped out a capture nut using the stock bolts and bolts/nuts at the bottom of the blocks. If you wanted to through-bolt it just use all-thread. But you would need to sleeve the blocks so the area around the hole was reinforced. 6" is getting high enough that you will need bracing anyway. You will want to tie the blocks together to form a "sub-frame" to which the suspension parts bolt on. You should do some searching here on the board - there's lots of info on building lifts. For a 6" lift you are going to need at least a welder, ability to cut metal (band saw is idea), and the usual drills and grinders, etc that come with metal fabrication. There are smaller lifts (2", etc) that folks have done without access to a decent shop but much higher and you start getting into dangerous territory without a proper design and decent fabrication shop to work it from. GD

Yep - same procedure. Just use a bleeder bottle and crack the bleeder open. Sometimes they can be a pain and thus the bench bleed - for that I use some fittings that plug the outlet ports to provide back pressure. GD

Yes - there are bleeder screws right on the MC. It's the first thing you should bleed before doing the calipers. It sounds like there's a serious air bubble on your primary circuit or there's a bad seal in the MC. GD

You would need a DL headlight setup. Possible to find but relatively rare by comparison to the more common GL setup - ask in the wanted section. GD

It sounds like one circuit in your master cylinder is bad - the way it goes almost to the floor before getting stiff..... have you bled the master cylinder? Rebuild kits are availible cheap - try www.rockauto.com. They are easy to rebuild and that might just solve your problem. Do a bench-bleed before installation. The boosters almost never fail - I've never heard of it anyway. Possible but unlikley. Nice lookin wasgon BTW. GD

If/when they get the bugs worked out I think it's going to be a great transmission. From what I've read it's an excelent concept and the way they resurrected the reeves drive variable speed system makes me smile. I'm hoping the early versions just have some simple bugs that they will address. GD

You might have to trim a bit on the radius rod plate and the cat's heat sheild for the EA82 pipe to fit properly. But yes it can work. GD

Such is not my calling in life. LOL. GD

There are two possibilities here - being an '81 I'm not sure what system it's using for fuel pump power. It could be powered off the voltage regulator or it could be powered by the fuel pump control unit (which is also it's relay). The things is - the choke is also powered by the FPCU and probably on the older models from the VR similar to the fuel pump. This insures that the choke only receives power when the engine is running and not with the ignition only turned on. The FPCU (which is definitely on the '82+ cars) would be located above the hood release cable bracket. It's a small, sqaure module with a 6 pin connector. The VR controlled cars have a different setup and I'm not familair with those as I have never owned one long enough to speak with experience about it. Anyway - hope that helps.... I beleive your problem stems from rerouting power to the fuel pump and neglecting to also power the choke - thus it's staying closed and causeing poor MPG. GD

The cats are not restrictive unless they are clogged or damaged, etc. You won't gain anything from gutting the cat and running a striaght-through muffler without also changing how the engine breathes. You will get a louder exhaust - that's it. There is some performance to be had in the down-pipe - a bell-mouth down pipe will help the turbo spool, etc. But that's not a cheap proposition. The cone filter is a bad idea - the K&N filters tend to foul MAF sensors with their oil, etc. You will lose the factory CAI - which is not restrictive at all. Once again it is not the bottle neck - the engine cannot breathe enough with it's tiny little 2-valve heads and stock boost to take advantage of those mods. Neither are where I would spend my money. Best bang for your buck is cams - call Delta Camshaft and talk about your cam options with them. EGT gauges are a good idea. That can warn you of a lean conditon. The Fel-Pro gaskets are good too. And of course you must maintain the cooling system properly. GD

Used from the west coast is your best bet - try the wanted section. It's not that hard for an exhaust shop to fab you a new header - you can go that route also. GD

Turned out very nice! Looks like a serviceable little truck and clean too. I like your use of the bug deflector to hide the hood damage . GD

Just keep running the synthetic. The EJ251 you have is a great engine - running synthetic it should go 300k+ without any trouble at all. My '99 has 243k on it - runs like a champ. GD

Personally I use ATF for this. Kero is awful thin. GD

Doesn't bother me a bit actually. I help those willing to listen. The rest don't have a firm grip on reality and/or have belief systems that don't agree with the mainstream here..... there are always going to be those folks. Eventually they leave or they find out the people here were right and trying to help so they stick around. Sounds like you are leaning toward the former. This is a forum - it's where opinions are expressed and where people go to find answers (which are very often opinions themselves) - you are free to provide your opinions and to also to get out in the garage and try some stuff - prove me wrong! GD

You don't really need that dust sheild - just lube up the splines with anti-seize and call it good. I don't even run those sheilds on my lifted wagon. Typically you can just straighten them and put them back on - if you need a new one then your best bet is a junk yard since it's that's not somthing prone to failure. GD

Old (classic ) Subaru's are not a good investment and never will be. Especially not the ubiquitous Subaru wagon from the '80s - even 360's from the 1960's aren't worth much in the scheme of cars in general and those are more rare than any Subaru wagon will be. You want a collectible? Get a Brat. You will be sorely dissapointed in 20 years because that POS is going to be worth maybe a couple grand to someone. When you are 70 years old it might fetch something from a museum - but I doubt it. This thread was started with the object to make "power" with the EA82T - now you are changing the subject to keeping it original.... which is it kid? Yes - I am an rump roast. That's well established. You think leaving hurts our feelings or something? You're a "taker" around here - you ask questions, you search (if we are lucky) and you get frustrated and complain about the answers - how does that help me out? Take a guess...... it doesn't! When *I* have a question to ask of the forum you won't be giving me the answers..... you are lucky I'm nice enough to share what little I have in my previous posts - because I know the favor won't be returned. GD

You are definitely in the craigslist ball-park for that stuff. Just make sure you don't buy someone's rented bottles. I bought new bottles and a new torch then built my own cart - my Victor torch setup was $275, the small bottle (fuel) was $170 and the large bottle (02) was $200.... to give you an idea of the new cost so you can judge the used pricing. Be aware that for cutting you will use about 4 times as much 02 as you do fuel. For that reason I run a larger 02 (2x as big actually) bottle than my fuel bottle. Even with 2x more 02 I still refill it more often. You can heat/cut with Propane too - it's cheaper and easier to get and most people have a BBQ bottle or two . Then you just need a used torch and an 02 bottle. For most of what you will do you will want small stuff - a small rosebud and a #00 cutting tip should be all you need for now. Read up on how to adjust a torch for proper use so you can try out anything you are considering buying. Especially important is the cutting torch setup. Inspect all threaded connections carefully for damage/abuse. You don't want any leaks and a dimple (from being dropped on the threads) or nicks and burrs will render the torch unsafe and basically turn them to expensive paper weights. You *probably* do not want a gas welding setup. At least *I* do not weld with gas - almost no one does anymore except to learn it in school.... most welding is done with some form of electrical arc these days. MIG welders are the standard "hot glue gun" of the welding industry - you probably want to consider one of those. Especially for automotive work where things like overhead welding is commonplace. GD

That all sounds fine till you know the codes for sure..... though I wouldn't mess with the IACV. Those aren't typically a problem until you get well up in the miles, etc. Cleaning them typically involves removing them from the intake (rear, passenger side near the TB). They have coolant running through them so if you remove it be prepared to top it off, etc. For O2's I prefer the NTK brand (NGK's sensor division). Discount Import Parts carries them. GD

LOL. 15 psi wouldn't get you anywhere near 500 HP. Might get you to ~175 HP. If you want anything close to 200 HP you will need 20+ psi on an EA82T. Kiss your fuel economy goodbye though. A frankenmotor will make this much power with NO turbo. And will easily fit your engine bay. Just an adaptor plate and a little wireing is all you need. Stop beating - horse is dead. You are the only one on this forum right now that's stubbornly clinging to this engine - why do you suppose that is? Could it be that many people just as intelligent as you have tried, failed, and given up? Have you considered that? Subaru's are short-stroke, large bore engines - they have short, stubby, fat little rods that are quite strong by comparison to say a Honda inline 4. It is not likely that you can make enough power to damage one. ...... you need to do a lot of reading. You have a steep learning curve ahead of you. It's not that simple and if you want to make changes to your engine and make it work you are going to need to understand the math behind the magic. The biggest differences are: 1. The heat of compression - in the case of increased static compression this heat cannot be removed - it is already inside the cylinder. In the case of forced induction this heat CAN be removed via an intercooler (the aluminium intake manifold is a rudimentary intercooler for this discussion). Thus an increase in compression ratio pushes you closer to detonation for a given fuel octane in an unavoidable way. Such is not the case with boost pressure. 2. A look at the math shows another problem - which is that cylinder pressure increases linearly with boost pressure but EXPONENTIALLY with increases in compression ratio. An increase from 8.5:1 to 9.5:1 will increase the cylinder pressure by around 100 psi while an increase in boost pressure from 14 to 15 psi will increase the cylinder pressure by only about 15 psi. Pressure and heat create detonation - both are to be avoided for a turbo-charged engine. ...... suffice to say you need an understanding of the math in order to properly setup your engine. No good with math? Sorry - you can't play here. They don't make them. As I said people have asked - it would cost a couple thousand $$ for them to setup the R&D and the dies to produce them. If you wanted to front that money then anyone could order the gaskets (cheaply) once they have the design finalized and have the ability to produce them. GD