GeneralDisorder

How is the rubber on the harmonic dampener? Mushy engine mounts? The flywheel would not be my first suspect.... does it have an aftermarket filter/intake? These have been known to cause issues with harmonics at certain rpm. GD

Best solution is reman lifters (Mizpah Precision - $4.50 each), new oil pump, cam case o-rings and relief valve springs. Sure fire repair. Anything less is likely very temporary/transitory. A proper repair involving those parts will run about $250 with new timing belts and tensioners and you will never have this return if you change the oil regularly. GD

It always comes on with the defrost - it dry's the air and makes the defroster more effective. Also keeps the compressor from sitting idle all winter. GD

So you are saying that Subaru is a bunch of Idiots? So you drive them why? They say to put it in everything as a CYA - it is not needed nor do I ever use it on the new, updated head gaskets. The leak on the EJ251/EJ253 is purely a result of poor coolant/oil gallery sealant used on the (old) head gaskets. It does not affect the combustion chamber fire ring. The stop-leak product DOES work - often long term but even in the short term it is a useful product as it can buy someone TIME. Time to gather the funds and make the arrangement so as not to be out a vehicle at the wrong time. Blanket statements calling people that use the Holts product an "Idiot" is foolish. It has it's place, it does a job. Use a $1.50 product (sanctioned by the dealer) to avoid a $1,000 repair bill and often the problem never returns - how does that make someone an idiot? GD

It's Holt's Stop Leak with a Subaru label on it. It is chunky and it IS designed to plug leaks. It actually works quite well on the Phase-II EJ25's - both from my own experience and talking to the local dealer - they have told me that MANY cases of external leaking head gaskets never have the problem again with proper application of the "conditioner". Incidentally - there's nothing left to "condition" when they start leaking - you have two block surfaces, a thin strip of metal (HG core) and all the sealant is washed away from either side - so there's nothing to be "conditioned" - that's a marketing term to keep people from freaking out. GD

That stuff will fix the external leaks on early phase-II engines. It will not seal a combustion leak on a phase-I. It is not designed for that nor will it work. If you have an overheating phase-I EJ25 (EJ25D) then you need to replace the head gaskets. GD

Just like any motor bearing replacement - a two-jaw puller and a bit of pipe to install the new bearing. Should do the brushes at the same time..... GD

We did not get those in the US. Last year for the DOHC 2.5 non-turbo was 99 here. Sorry I cant help more with your request. GD

EA81 and EA82 require different adaptor plates but both can accept a weber, yes. GD

For $37.50 it's not really worth trying to build one unless you have too much time on your hands. Trying to figure out what kind of ceramic based adhisive caulk they use to keep the nichrome wire loops seperated, the fidgety soldering of that stuff..... headache. Spend the $40 and be done with it. GD

Brat's are EA81 cars. They continued making them till '87 due to their popularity even though the EA82 and it's associated body change took over the wagon, sedan, and coupe chassis. GD

That is not true of all models and years - for one thing the EA81 and EA82 rack lines use a totally different style fitting - one being an o-ring seal and the other a flare fitting. I also encountered differences in a couple of EA82 PS line's and fittings that I was looking at using..... in the end the easiest solution was to just switch to JIC so I would have no incompatibilities. So EJ/EA are not always the same since EA/EA are not always the same..... GD

Likely they all have bulbs and are just burnt out. For the cluster you will have to pull it and access the bulbs from the back. The switches can be dissasembled and the bulbs replaced as well. Radio Shack has bulbs that will work. GD

You can use a hydro tranny by changing the fork so even that is not really an issue. Sometimes changing the rear diff is easier than finding a matching tranny. GD

Looking good and being functional are two different things. The wide offset is BAD. Got it? How many times do you need to hear this and from how many people before you stop questioning it? GD

Yes - ports on the top on the rear filter. GD

Yes - the flow is OUT of the driver's side head so that is where you would want the catch can - the flow is IN to the passenger side valve cover so it wouldn't do any good there. You may have a lot of blow-by - that is possible. Not typical of Subaru engines, but still possible. GD

You don't need one at all - if you setup the PCV as in that picture then it shouldn't be sucking oil into the intake. Mine never do....... GD

Front filter (vapor seperator) or rear (actual filter)? GD

Just drop in a '95 or earlier 2.2 - complete engine. There is no advantage to using the 1.8 heads - they are identical (and crappy just like the 2.2 heads). You can use '96 through '98 engines as well if you change to a single port exhaust manifold. The best heads are the '97/'98 single-port heads - they have roller rockers with solid lifters and are good for a little performance boost. The single vs. dual port exhaust deal does not affect performance. GD

That's too wide and the offset is all wrong. You don't want those. But we have already told you that and apparently you don't listen. GD

I'm pretty sure that 21 is the *nominal* current load that the link carries. I think the larger rating is it's max - where it will blow after 15 seconds.... consider that the alt is only rated at 55 amps and there are two other links that need some of that juice..... GD

Don't do head-work to the '82 heads - they have smaller intake valves so will not flow as well. Get a set of '83+ large-valve heads. GD

Just get em as close as you can and then readjust after running it for a bit. Your lifters could be deflated from sitting, etc. Incidentally - the hydro's rob power. If you want performance swap the hydro lifters for solids (they are accesible from under the oil pan) and readjust to solid lifter clearances. GD

It all depends on the maintenance - with synthetic oil and excelent service history the EJ22 can run half a million miles. On the other hand it could be near the end of it's life - there's no way to tell without tearing down the engine. I just removed an EJ25D with 147k on it - the owners probably rarely changed the oil and it looks like maybe they just topped it off once in a while. It had the updated 4 layer head gaskets since before 90k but now at 147k the whole bottom end is completely shot and the inside of the engine looks like a BBQ gone wrong. GD