GeneralDisorder

Hhhmmmm - inspect the drive gear inside the transmission as well - sometimes they just eat govenors like candy due to a worn drive gear. If that's the case then you want to start looking for a transmission because it's not really worth repairing them - especially with that many miles on it. GD

Yikes! I wouldn't have taken it to a dealership - they are going to bend you over on the TCU code. The duty-c solenoid is inside the transmission and the labor to get to it is not real cheap. Further - there is a chance that the mismatched tires will have caused damage to the transfer clutch pack (which is operated by the duty-c) and may need to be replaced - which at the dealer is big $$$$$$$. Tires, alignment, code 24, possible clutch pack, and now some kind of stalling issue..... my prediction is they are going it hit you HARD - possibly more than the car is worth. It doesn't take much at dealer pricing to scare people into buying a brand new car...... especially with a '97 OBW in rough shape like that being worth $3000 or less. It doesn't take a lot at dealer pricing to exceed that. Have the head gaskets been replaced yet? Those are known failures on your engine and if they are original, etc...... find another car unless you can do the work yourself. In the business of selling cars/equipment, etc where you also have a service department - we always called this type of customer a "sales call" - in other words the estimate on repair was going to be so high that we would just hand it to a salesman and have HIM place the call to the customer and give them the bad news and a run-down of their options - repair vs. replace. I had about a 95% accuracy with calling out which units were "sales calls" before they hit my bay when I was doing industrial machinery. I would see them being unloaded from a truck and I would already know :-\. As my old boss used to say - "Jack up the air filter and drive a new machine under it!" GD

Subaru, Peugot 504/505, and Some ATV's are the only wheels commonly availible that will fit the 4x140. A simple search would have shown you this - it's well documented around here. GD

No - you cannot use the 5 speed clutch with the 4 speed. They are not interchangeable. GD

Wow! That's a monster. A very nice lathe for sure. P&W made very fine machinery. I love the ultra-wide flat belt drive. That will transfer a considerable amount of torque. You could hog some serious material with that beast. Kitty approves eh? GD

Lower octane can be run at high elevations because the cylinder pressure's are lower. It's also more volatile and technically contains more BTU's per gallon than high-octane. You should always run the lowest octane your engine can stand without pinging or affecting timing because it is both cheaper and contains more energy and thus will yeild better mileage. It might not accelerate as well due to the inability of the ECU to advance timing without knock but the cruise MPG should go up. GD

Easy - if the distributor is at the back of the driver's side head (near the brake MC) it's an EA82. If it's at the front of the engine to the left-front of the carb - it's an EA81.

Yeah - that's the clutch fork return spring. It's a brighton specific deal I think since the regular Legacy's that year would have had the hill holder valve instead. GD

Ok - you don't seem to understand. 1. You already have a CAI - All Subaru's do. 2. You will not gain any MPG or HP with your cone filter. 3. You WILL probably cause resonance issues, make more noise, and gain the ability to hydro-lock your engine. The K&N filter you bought is entirely useless - it's a gimmick and you will only devalue the car and possibly cause great harm by installing it. Just return it and be happy that Subaru's are so well designed. If you want more power you need to install a set of performance cams. GD

Cool! The more you know...... Now I'm wondering which style the red-tops are? They seem to be pretty much the most reliable of the 90 to 94 injectors..... They have 4 holes in the business end (which is metal)..... so they seem more like a disc injector - maybe with an improved spray pattern? It would seem that the best approach is to just swap out the grey-top injectors for the red-top's and associated rails since those are drastically cheaper injectors and were used on auto and manual. GD

I find it neccessary personally - I don't like the feel of the engine slamming back and forth when I transition on and off the gas pedal. On my lifted wagon (EA81 with SPFI) I just used a 1.25" wide by 5" long section of 1/4" plate to extend the pitching stopper mount UP from the engine so the forward/backward force is compressing the pitch rod directly along it's shaft. This way I use the stock pitch rod and it is not weakened by being placed at greater than 90* to the forces being applied. I also did away with the rubber mounts in favor of a hard mounting. GD

Too small to do much - the CFM of that turbo is pretty low. It will spool very quickly and give a boost to low-end torque, etc but it will likely run out of air-flow at higher RPM. A better choice would be a VF11 from a first-gen Legacy turbo or even a TD04 from a WRX. GD

Yes that is a nice looking wagon. Almost makes me want to go find a pristene example...... almost. GD

You can't easily rejet a Hitachi - where would you get jets? It's not like these things are availible in the aftermarket..... You best bet is a Weber or (even better) fuel injection. GD

The struts very likely *are* availible - dealer only parts and you will not like the price. Likely several times more than you paid for the car. That is the Subaru equivelent of a "glass jaw" engine. It is imperitive that you KEEP IT COOL. They will not stand overheating. The best advice I can give you is to go to the DEALER and have them order EVERY SINGLE coolant hose on the car. Some are not easy to get to. They need to be replaced - it will not be fun but you need to do it. GD

Yes - it is 4WD. It doesn't really matter which distributor you have - I have an '86 4WD with a nippon distributor and coil - Subaru changed that stuff around frequently and on the EA82's (such as your's). There is not hard and fast rule about distributor brand and it's relation to 2WD/4WD on these. It is very likely their parts listings are wrong or incomplete. If you really want to know then take the VIN down to the dealership and find out from the source. Napa and Autozone are not authorities on the subject of Subaru's or the proclivities of their engineers (which can be strange at times). GD

Maybe - or maybe the parts listings are wrong. Chances are - if the brand of distributor matches the brand of coil - it's original. GD

Even if you use one of these? GD

You will have to block the EGR (no big deal), and rerout the heater core return pipe if you are using that (or block if you are not), but yes it should fit I think as long as the thermostat doesn't interfere with the distributor..... I think it will be ok though. The thermostat housing is similar to many other '80s units - I found one from a Mazda Protege that worked well for my lifted EA81 project and I know another guy that used one from a Mazda MPV 4 cylinder. Also the older Nissan pickups have outlets that fit and point straight up. There are other options if you don't mind going to 1.5" hose instead of 1.25" hose..... If I were doing what you are doing I would invest in a tubing bead roller and run the radiator via hard piping. You could even have the thermostat housing and water pump inlet modified to accept JIC fittings and run braided stainless hose to/from the hard tubing. Or go to like a LENZ type fitting. Those would be more robust off-road with some flex-line added to soak up vibration. GD

They are compatible. eulogious's car had one rail with a grey and a black in it (and seems to run fine that way). That's how we know. They also have the same resistance on the driver coil and through threads that I've read the claim is that the flow rate is the same also - thus the question - what the heck is the difference?? GD

How inexpensive was it? Best price I found locally was $65 GD

The rails and injectors will swap between the 90/91 auto/man as well as the 91 to 94 22T.... In fact the rails on the '92 to '94 will swap also but I beleive the injectors will not fit the older/turbo rail. People very often swap the 22T rails for 92 to 94 N/A rails in order to fit the newer WRX injectors, etc. GD

'99 Forester's have the Phase-II SOHC EJ25 - which will be harder to swap for the EJ22. I would be looking for a replacement EJ25 as they are pretty reliable - I have a '99 Forester that has 242k on the original engine..... GD

Yes - the pink tops are 22T injectors. They *for sure* flow significantly more than the other's. That much I know for certain but I don't know the differences in the black vs. grey. GD

Impreza OBS will be open on both ends. Standard AWD system. Nothing special. VLSD's, etc are on higher-end turbo models mostly. GD