GeneralDisorder

You can use either pulley. You may have to make the spacer a bit shorter to clear the threads with the single groove but it will work. I've used both. Initially I used the two-groove because it's what I had laying around that happened to fit. Since that time I've used both without problems. GD

It's both - there won't be enough threads to get the nut on and it ALSO doesn't line up. Cutting it down moves the pulley into alignment and also gives enough thread to hold it on with. Yes - it's basically an eyeball thing. Being a V-Belt it doesn't have to be perfect. This is not a swiss watch part. The most critical part is that the spacer be the same thicknes all the way around so the pulley doesn't wobble. When I did them by hand I would measure them in 6 or 8 places and mark where it was too high then take off more material with a draw file and the spacer held in a vice. These days I chuck them up in my lathe - run a dial indicator on it and then spin off the amount I want them shorter. GD

A new ignition switch is $32 from the dealer. Would be a lot simpler to just get one of those when you go for the permanent fix. I understand having to get to work, but don't leave it that way. GD

Most of the parts for the 4 speed are availible through the dealer. But I would caution you against rebuild one - it's not worth it when 5 speed D/R's bolt right up to the engine and are more reliable and easier to get. GD

The voltage regulator is EXTERNAL to the alternator up till 1982. GD

There were multiple setups for AC - some inboard and some outboard. You have the idea - swap your pulley over. You will have to make the spacer under your pulley smaller as pictured in my first post. GD

Not unless it's bad. You can easily check them against spec with a DMM. GD

Based on his previous posts and his Avatar he has an '83. GD

Go and buy a spot-weld drill. Then you center-punch the welds and it's got a spring loaded centering pin and a tiny little hole-saw on it..... Harbor Freight has them for like $4. *edit* Ok - no power tools......... hacksaw - one with a bow and another "keyhole" style. NEW blades. If you could get ahold of a cordless drill and a spot-weld cutter....... much easier. Otherwise a cordless sawzall and just lop the whole front off right in front of the strut towers. That's typically what I do at yards. GD

Check the screw in the distributor rotor first then check the timing belt - the passenger side one. Loyale's are fuel injected and it's very unlikely that it's got anything to do with the fuel system. Since it apparently has spark and tries to fire - coupled with the fact that it died while running..... it's a timing belt or a rotor screw..... or it's out of gas. GD

Don't ask the dealer for pricing if you are that cheap! $20 to $30 each is about what they go for. That's really not unreasonable considering what they are. GD

Yep - bad regulator. GD

You DO NOT want more offset. That increases the swing arc of your steering and causes you to have to do a LOT more beating and cutting. You want the correct Subaru offset. The Peugeot rims are very close and are an excelent choice. Many of the Toyota rims are close as are some of the older Isuzu truck (Chevy Luv) rims. Proper Chevy rims have too much offset. GD

Love those pesky turbo coolant hoses . Go to the dealer and order EVERY SINGLE coolant line on the car. Save you a lot of headache and blown head gaskets. GD

I just used a 1x2 chunk of pine when mine didn't work. Never got hit in the head . GD

Back-probe the connetor that contains the fuel pump wires and check for power while cranking. Use a DMM or a 12v test light ($5 to $10). For the injector signal you need a Noid light - which you can easily build with an LED, a resistor, and a couple paper clips (again - $5 to $10 or less). Just google it. IMO - everyone who is any kind of mechanic should have at least a cheap DMM ($2.99 at Harbor Frieght), a 12v test light (I like the Hella one for $8) and a Noid light in every car along with all the usual tools. GD

Correct - 105k on the '97+ EJ22's. GD

I'm sure they are fine. I've used the Sach's strut's before. I have a set on my EA81 hatch right now and they are great - the hatch strut's have a MUCH higher rate of failure than the wagon struts - mine have been on for a couple years and I have no complaints. They say that sell Sach's and that's probably what you will get. I think their feedback rating probably says it all - near 30,000 feedback and 99.9% positive. Seems like a straightforward purchase - what are you worried about? They will probably last 10 to 15 years just like the originals and for $50 that seems a pretty fair trade to me. GD

They are annoying to work on - the timing belts, their propensity for valve ticking, weak cooling system..... etc. It's even more annoying that none of this is really fatal and you usually can't justify crushing them over it. I hate them too. The day I never see another one will be a happy day at my shop. Mostly it just really pisses me off that Subaru had to saddle me with these crappy belts and lifters when they could have just hot-rodded the EA81 and had the same damn thing. Basically the EJ22 and the EA81 are considered the two high-points for reliability and ease of maintenance from that era (~ '85 to '95). The EA82 is considered the low point. That's not saying it's a bad engine when viewed amongst car engines from all manufacturers - just when viewed against other Subaru engines of it's time. GD

Well - you can help out by donating to the board. You get more storage space for PM's, pictures, etc. It's a simple $5 paypal. That would certainly help and is encouraged if you find the board useful, etc. Note that I do not run this board or incur it's financial obligations nor am I a staff member. I merely sugest it when people indicate they find this place useful. GD

It does not require complete dissasembly. Replacement of the transfer clutch and the solenoid is about a 2 to 4 hour job. It's a very simple task actually - not at all like soldering on SMD resistors (yeah - I've done my share of computer work). Junk yards, by and large, do not sell bad transmissions, engines, etc. They are pulled from running cars - usually running well enough to get into an accident. They are inspected and cleaned and then sold if everything looks in order. Your chances of getting a bad transmission is very low. It's never happened to me and I have bought dozens. It is completely unfounded for your parents to claim this nor can the words of a transmission shop be trusted (they have monetary gain in mind). Further - it is unlikely that you need the whole tranny. As for you mother not being sure you are up to the task - well that's something YOU should be decideing since you are almost a man now. Stop calling yourself a kid and stop viewing yourself in that light. Speak up for yourself. Tell her you are a man and wish to handle this in your own way. I know how hard this can be - I had to basically join the Army for my mother to realize she didn't have to be my mommy anymore. It's tough but it's got to be done. It is not a Ford - nor is that experience applicable except to someone that has a complete lack of understanding of mechanics and automotive principles. Basically your parents are driven by fear - they are afraid of what they do not understand and are seeking not only a way to not have to face said fear but also reinforcement that their fear is well founded and pragmatic. They do not weigh the options with an open mind. Their fear is debilitating and costly. And that is sad. I understand you are stuck in the middle here with little recourse as you are not the one holding the means to move the mountain..... Just don't let their close-minded, fearful mentality eat into your young brain. Don't become a man that is driven by fear of the world around him. You sought out the answer and found it - just because it wasn't received by your parents doesn't mean it wasn't the right answer. In this case they are wrong and there's nothing you can do about it. But at least you tried. GD

I use my cheap Craftsman ratchet for the "hand impact" method. I have a couple of them and if I break it - oh well. It's just the right length for this method - thus the reason I use it. Breaker bar is too long to hit effectively with a hammer (too much flex). Yeah - maybe you will strip out the guts (I haven't stripped one that way yet but probably will in time) - but who cares if it gets the nut off. I don't abuse my Snap-On stuff like that but the Craftsman..... well it's Taiwan junk anyway plus they will give me another - no questions asked. GD

Yes - you can handle it. Tell her to give you half the money that she would have spent on the transmission and you can buy tools (which will be useful for the rest of your life), and the transmission, and install it in a weekend or two. Explain to her that it is both educational and also adding to your tool collection which is priceless - many of those tools will be useful down the line - maybe to fix your car, or maybe to fix HER car. You never know. A tool is almost never a bad investment - at the very least you could buy craftsman and then return them after the job is done Transmission swap is pretty simple on an automatic. Transfer clutch and solenoid are WAY easier than that. The biggest thing is to come HERE when you are confused or frustrated and we will tell you how to proceed. With a friend, and this forum you can accomplish almost anything on that car. Other than the transfer clutch pack and the solenoid these transmissions are VERY reliable. I have a customer with one that had a little torque bind at 215k - we flushed it out twice. The shifting got a lot smoother and the torque bind is nearly gone - it now has 245k on it. He drives 160 miles a day commute and has put 30k on it in 8 months. With proper maintenance and replacing your solenoid and clutch pack it should easily make 300k. Show her this thread - make her read my comments. Show her my post count and my join date. I work on these for a living - I buy and sell them all the time. I know of what I speak and I'm not asking you for money - so consider my motivation here vs. the dealership. GD

They are normal right-hand threads. Lefty-Loosey is correct. You need an impact or use a 1/2" ratchet and hit the end with a 4lb hammer (repeatedly) till the thing breaks free. Some PB Blaster (or Yeild if you can find some) can help. Let it soak in for a while before going at it. GD

You have to start ruleing out stuff - I'm sorry but that could be almost anything (except the battery obviously ). Check for spark, check for power at the fuel pump while cranking, check for injector signal, etc. Could just be a bad coolant temp sensor and the ECU thinks the engine is warmer than it really is. GD