GeneralDisorder

This is a common problem with the crank circuit of the EA82's. Typically the ignition switch or part of the circuit can't pass enough amps to engage the starter solenoid. There are a couple things you should do first: 1. Address the battery connections - sometimes a loose or corroded cable is the problem. 2. Check the connections at the starter - sometimes the solenoid wire is loose. 3. Check the connections at the fusible links - mostly the small wire going to the positive battery terminal. Sometimes there are issues there. Clean and tighten each of the links. 4. Check the connection from the wireing harness to the ignition switch. Sometimes excessive resistance in the circuit can cause this connection to overheat and melt. Clean the terminals. 5. Dissasemble and clean the solenoid contacts in the starter. Sometimes this is enough to get them to engage easier and ease the problem. Often though this is just a good maintenance item. 5. If all else fails you have one of two options: A. Replace the ignition switch and see if the problem goes away - sometimes a used switch is just as bad though. B. Install a relay turned on by the ignition switch that applies battery voltage to the starter solenoid - this nearly always fixes the prolem permanently as the ignition switch, though damaged, can pass enough current to close the relay. GD

The white canistor is a vacuum accumulator. Not a storage tank per-se (you can't effectively store vacuum), but rather it maintains even vacuum as the manifold vacuum changes. Check the vacuum line routing to the tank and make sure nothing is cracked or loose or disconnected. GD

Seems like it would be a good idea if you could get it thick and even enough. I would be more likely to try something like hurculiner or one of the other roll-on bedliner products if I were going to try something. But then I haven't much experience with trying to keep underbodies from rusting since it's not an issue here. GD

That's a '92 -'94 unless you have changed the front-end. GD

It's probably a sensor or grounding problem. But it could be the dash as well. Pull the sensor lead off and ground it to the block - that should give you a max reading on the gauge if it's working correctly. GD

Oh - you mean it grinds if you shift at high RPM. Well that's a different animal all together. You have bad syncro's in the transmission. You can try a better gear oil like Redline, etc. But these transmissions were never designed to shift at 6k forever. It's just old and you'll probably have to rebuild it or replace it if you want that high-rpm shifting back. GD

That's a nice build. It looks like the Vivio is similar to the Justy that was sold in the US back in the 1980's and early 1990's. So did he remove the ECVT and put in something else, or are you saying that he added a 4WD ECVT in place of the original transmission? How did all this work change the power and fuel economy of the car? I'm guessing it was pretty economical before the swap, yes? GD

Judging by his other post, this means "undercoating". GD

If it came from anywhere but the US, it would probably say "Leone" on it somewhere. AUS got the Legacy in '89 and I don't think they were making the EA82 body cars alongside them over there. I could be wrong about that. The Brumby's were made till '94 in some places. GD

You can always get a floor squeegee to push stuff out with. It's nice to be able to wash the floor. Dry floor sweep can only do so much I've found. GD

Yep - proper power supply to the welder is critical for it to work right. My grandfather had added like 50 ft of cable to my stick welder and it wouldn't function as anything more than a large magnet till I removed the cable and stripped back the wire till I got past the corrosion. Changed the plug to be compatible with my MIG machine and now I can use my 50ft 8/3 cord that I built for the shop. Welds like a maniac now. Gotta love the 1960's AC stick machine. It's such a beast and totally cheap to run. GD

I'm not sure on the sensor location as I haven't replaced one on a Turbo..... The gauge should have an increasing number of segments that light up as the temp rises. GD

If you have the resources to move to GMAW you should definitely do it. The wire is cheaper than flux-core and it's like $25 to fill a bottle. Then you can run .023 wire which will give you less burn-through. With the gas there is no slag so you can weld a bit at a time so as to not overheat the work. No slag removal either. All around a better process for what you are doing. You will be amazed how much smoother it runs with gas. For several years (till recently actually) I ran a 130 amp 110v Harbor Frieght machine - unlike all the other folks that just buy them and run FCAW and *************** about how it sucks I actually bought a bottle and regulator for it. It served me well but never had the penetration I wanted for doing real fab work (bumpers, lifts, etc). It welded nice for what I paid for it (~$150 IIRC). The bottle and reg were more $$ than the machine. I was able to move the bottle to my new 220v machine though which saved me on upgrade costs. I put the flux wire back into the HF machine and ran a few welds with it just to see - it spatters more than my AC stick machine and the slag isn't exactly the softest stuff either. It's in a cupboard where it will stay unless I have to get mobile with my welding. Another thing you might not have considered - that Hobart 140 needs a good sized breaker and if you run an extension cord you NEED a 10 AWG. One thing I learned the hard way with my 110v machine - don't run it on a 14 AWG, 100 ft extension cord. It can't draw the amps it needs and the welds will look like your's. Maybe that's part of your problem? IIRC, people claim you need at least a 30 amp circuit for the 140's and minimum of 10 AWG extension - no more than 50 ft. GD

Good choice on the Hobart - you'll never regret owning that little guy. Lots of things you can do with it that the bigger machines don't do well and can't beat the portability. In case you aren't aware Hobart is owned by Miller (it's their entry level brand). Flux core has the bad habit of running hotter than solid wire. It actually penetrate's BETTER than GMAW but with a lot more spatter, and slag problems. If you are at the upper border of the thickness your machine can run, Flux core will get you the extra penetration you need. Sadly, that makes it harder to run on sheet goods. Cleaning and prep will help, and practice. The benefits of overlapping it will outweight the costs. And if you are going to be filling and painting it anyway - I don't think it will matter. Crazy as this sounds, I actually prefer stick welding on sheet metal. . More control as you can vary your arc length and allow the puddle to freeze before you blow holes in it. Depends on the situation though as there are times when MIG has advantages. GD

First - excelent attention to detail. The result turned out good. Second - you need to do some practicing with your welder. I can help some, but a lot of it is going to be down to practice. Perhaps if you have some older fenders or some other sheet metal around you could set up some practice welds. I have some sugestions and some questions for you. 1. What's your setup? 110v? 220v? Flux-core (FCAW)? Gas (GMAW)?, and what size wire are you running? 2. The biggest change you need to make is that both peices to be welded need to be CLEAN shiny metal. You are burning off a lot of paint and other junk by the looks of the black smokey residue on there. A $5 wire wheel in your drill or a wire "cup" wheel in your grinder will do wonders for your weld quality. Make sure you have clean metal where your ground clamp is attached too. 3. It will be much easier to patch sheet metal if you overlap the edges. That gives you twice the thickness to work with and you will be able to run hotter without burning through. In the end you are just going to grind it or pound it flat and apply filler anyway. 4. If you are using flux-cored wire you need to get to a point where you can run a decently solid bead rather than the "hundreds of tack welds" method you are using (overlapping your patch will help). That's not a bad method per-se if you are running with a gas bottle and a large welder (sometimes they only way if the machine is very large), but with the flux-core you will have a ton of slag inclusions if you don't keep the puddle from solidifiying like that. Anyway - tell us what you have and we'll get you straight. Check out www.weldingweb.com as well. Lots of good information and knowledge in the forums there. GD

If it's a 90 then it would be a Loyale not a GL. They did make the turbo Loyale's in '90 only so it's possible that it exists and the owner is confused. GD

I don't see how a change in RPM's would cause the clutch to stick. Are you sure it's not just slipping? If it is sticking - replace the cable first. If that doesn't cure it then you'll have to pull the engine and take a look at the clutch setup. Something could be worn out. GD

You can install a pedal switch on the clutch pedal to act as the neutral switch. That works well enough that you won't get the code. GD

Really? No slope at all? I thought there was usually a slight slope to the door so you could easily wash down the floor and so stuff drains out instead of in..... very slight of course. Like 1" total slope. I could be wrong though. GD

The EA81T is 95 HP, rare, and has a primitive form of the EA82T's fuel injection. Hard to find parts for them anymore and expensive to maintain for a mere 20 HP over the stock EA81 non-turbo. You can get almost the same power from an EA82 SPFI, and WAY more power from an EJ22 without any of the complications of the turbo or it's entourage. The RAM performance EA81 Supercharged aircraft build is 200 HP and cost is about $14,000 As for the EJ22G/EJ20G turbo engines - they are good and at 165/230 HP respectively will yeild a ton more power. I wouldn't say they are "easily" upgraded to 600+ HP..... it's possible but it generally cost's about $5,000 to $10,000 by the time it's said and done and you won't get there on stock internals. I wouldn't call that "easy" but at least it's possible which isn't something you can say for the various incarnations of the EA's. Just to straighten out a few facts. If you want a turbo EA81 then swap out the pistons with EA82T pistons, add a custom cam, port/polish, and do a blow-through setup using an appropriate carb. The DGEV Weber can work but it's better to use something like the 38/38 DGAS as it's easier to tune two barrels of the same size than it is to tune two dissimilar sized barrels and work around the progression issues. Also the 38/38 has e-tubes that are appropriate for forced induction. There are numerous issues with doing a blow-through but nothing that can't be overcome. I did one recently to a Samuri with a co-worker. It was a lot of R&D and he's still working out little issues. GD

5 is a model code that indicates no fault. It just tells what the transmission type was of the car the ECU came from, etc. GD

Yes. The push-button 5 speeds came in 3.9 and in 3.7. Your Loyale should be 3.9 so it may be that your used tranny came from an older 3.7 car. GD

Right on - two-car, extra deep or three-car? Hard to tell what the orientation is supposed to be..... That's about what I work out of as well. Thinking about putting in a lift in the next few years. Would be very useful for me. GD

There is typically a fuel pump relay of some kind. On the carb models I beleive it's just the solid-state relay in the fuel pump control unit that does the job. There might be another but I would have to consult my FSM diagrams. GD

It's an automatic system - it's got a 12v DC compressor and all the associated nightmare of tubing and wireing that goes with it. Yes they will fit the standard knuckle but the system was VERY unreliable and almost all of them have been replaced with standard coil-overs. GD