GeneralDisorder

All SPFI systems were hot-wire MAF with optical CAS distributors. Being he has a flapper door, his would be MPFI or Turbo - at any rate along with the flapper door MAF always comes the non-optical distributor (read - mechanical advance) thus the timing setting is different. All I have are EA81 FSM's but my '84 FSM shows 15 degrees for the flapper door MAF EA81T's - I'm assuming it would be similar if not identical for the flapper MAF EA82's. GD

This belongs in the old gen forum. Have you actually tested the fuel pressure? Sounds like perhaps you installed the wrong pump. GD

I use both SAE and Metric. Almost all Metric at home and both at work - a lot of stuff I work on is Metric these days but I also work on a lot of old stuff that's SAE - Industrial equipment doesn't get retired just because it's old. Very often I find myself working on gear that's older than I am. But probably 75% of my time is spent working on a specific brand of german pumps and obviously that's all Metric. I have to be prepared for whatever though and I find that most of my BIG stuff (over 3/4") is almost exclusively SAE. I do run into the odd 24mm 6-point or 17mm Allen though. I bet I'm the only one on this board with Ford wrenches (monkey wrench) in 4 different sizes up to 18" GD

The flapper MAF car's are (I think) 15 degree's for timing. Other's will know for sure but I'm pretty sure that's accurate. I know it is for the EA81T's which used basically the same system with a mechanical/vacuum advance distributor. 4WD 3AT's use 6.8 quarts of ATF, front diff is 1.3 quarts of gear oil (it's all GL-5 rated these days - any 75w90 will do). Rear diff is 0.7 quarts. Someone else will have to answer on the filling of the TC - I don't run auto's (especially not the 3AT ) - and if I have to pull one there's no way it's going back in GD

I had this issue with a Hitachi once - I am fairly certain it was a float needle that would bind in the seat and stick closed. The engine runs out of fuel and acts like you just ran out of gas. After a period of time, or as soon as you screw with the thing in any minor way the float unsticks and it starts running again. The only way I can thing of that you could test this theory is to wait till it happens again and try to see if there is any fuel in the float cavity - you will need a flashlight to see the fuel level through the sight glass. If there's no fuel on the glass you have found your problem. In my case I rebuilt the carb and had used the aftermarket viton tipped needle and new seat - when I swapped back to a stock brass needle the problem never returned for as long as I ran that carb. GD

Depends on how much of the EA81's electrical you want to use. The engine will mount up without much difficulty - I'm not sure if the pitching stop will be an issue but it's something I would look at. At most you will have to fab something for it. The EA71's electrical can be used (complete with the distributor and all) if you want but the EA81 has a superior system that doesn't need the external VR, or the ignitor and ballast resistor. You might ask Jerry if he knows of anyone that's used his kit with an 80 body - the floorpan sheet metal could very well be a different part number and as such you might have rubbing issues. The 5 speed is VERY close to the pan even with his kit - possibly only 1/8" in places. The need for the adjustable pitching stopper to tilt the engine back somewhat for his kit is one reason I asked about it above. You will definitely need a custom driveline. There's no way around it with the hatch body. Jerry will know the exact length of tube between the yokes that will be required. Other than those items - I can't see any reason that you wouldn't be able to do it with minimal effort. Although I hate doing tranny swaps - but that's just me. GD

Check craigslist for out-of-work professional mechanic's selling boxes - decent used high-end stuff is my preference over the Sears catalog replete with Chinese import garbage. I have 20+ year old Snap-On stuff that I have bought off eBay for less than the cost of a new one at Sears - I just had a ratchet rebuilt for free on the truck (took him 5 minutes tops) that cost me $27 shipped out of the bay - I can't buy a Craftsman for that and I would be back there every 6 months having it replaced for not ratcheting correctly or being stripped out. No thanks! My bottom box is a 1982 - it's on it's second owner as far as I know. The drawer capacity is something silly like 125 lbs and they slide freely even loaded up - without BB's. If I break a slide it will be replaced for free - even on something that old! You do enough garage time to warrant something decent Mick - don't go the Sears route if you can help it. I've been there and although you may never have a problem with the thing there's always the chance that you might - it's partially the customer service that's the issue, but mostly it's just that should you find something indadequate about the product the most you will receive is a replacement - a replacement that's just a cheap as the first one you broke. GD

Mounts are the same yes. GD

In over 10 years of working on and owning Subaru's I've seen exactly 1 of these in person. And I'm not sure if it was an actual dual-carb with the reversed valve heads and twin exhaust ports or if it was simply an original dual-carb manifold (not easy to get either but there are some out there - the carbs on them are crap though) coupled to a modified USDM EA81. I'm pretty sure it was the latter though. I have yet to see or hear of an actual full race spec EA81 dual-carb here in the US. I've seen pictures and there have been unverified reports, etc. The JDM dual carb was 108 HP, and the full race version was rumored to be around 150 HP. You are highly unlikely to see one or be able to buy it for your boat. They are coveted and if anyone had one I doubt they would sell it for that purpose. If you want 90 HP with the EA bell-housing then you need look no further than the EA82 SPFI - you can pull off the fuel injection and install the carb manifold and a Weber if you wish. They were rated at exactly 90 HP and they are a dime a dozen. GD

The crankcase does end up with a tiny bit of pressure - but you aren't pulling IN any fresh air - there is no POSITIVE displacement present. Acidic blow-by simply displaces the "fresh" air present in the crankcase and soon becomes the only gasses present - it is absorbed into the oil and eats bearing surfaces - it will etch metal. Back before the days of PCV valves, positive displacement was accomplished with a road-draft tube but that isn't passe anymore. You need a way to pull in fresh air - the piston pumping action will not do that without a valve to stop it from sucking back on the upstroke the same amount it tried to displace on the downstroke. The PCV valve is the solution - it's clean and simple. It's important to note that there will be no PCV action durring boost - when the manifold pressure goes positive the valve slams shut and for the time that the engine is under boost it does not function. GD

It's a bit different when you wrench every day of the week for a living. I had a Craftsman box for a while - it was ok till I ran out of space in it. The problem is that if you want to go up into the 40"+ sizes with large, deep drawers, the Craftsman stuff is not any cheaper than the Snap-On box I bought used - but the quality isn't as good. Ball-Bearing slides are all the rage now and don't get me wrong - they are very nice, but you put my Snap-On greased slider box alongside a cheapy BB unit and you won't see much difference. For reference, if I were to buy a comparable (but brand new) Snap-On box to the one I got for $750, I would be looking at around $2500 - only real difference would be BB slides and shiny, new paint (and me a lot lighter in the wallet!). It was also a good way to befriend the Snap-On guy that is at my work every Thursday - It's a good relationship to have in my business - If I'm in a jam and need a tool I know I can call him and he'll be there. He's quite fair and routinely gives me discounts far in excess of the retail price from the Snap-On web site. Plus I don't have to pay all at once and there's no interest on my account with him. It's a good deal for me anyway. GD

Assuming you don't care about hurting the engine internals or are planning to change your oil every 500 miles it should be fine. The PCV is only indirectly related to emissions. It's primary function is to remove acidic blow-by gasses from your crankcase. Valve cover vents will not accomplish this as there is no positive flow. GD

My local Snap-On guy has a collection of used boxes that he makes available to his customers at considerable discount. I got one similar to Rob's above but it's an 8 drawer bottom and a 12 drawer top with a side cabinet for $750. Was a good deal for me as I am able to make payments to him (not Snap-On) of $25 a week and there's no interest, etc. When I decide to upgrade he will take it as trade also. Plus I can throw the occasional new tool on my "truck account" with him and it's the same deal - $25 a week. It's kinda neat to have some of the vintage stuff - my top box is a 1969 model and the front is covered in vintage stickers. It doesn't have BB slides but I don't have any issues with it. Works great, lifetime guarantee, and the price was right. GD

EA82's didn't come out till '85 so all of those part numbers will be wrong. The PDF is probably differentiating between top mount starter and side mount starter..... You need a parts breakdown for an '85 or newer (4WD). GD

That's because the 2WD EA82 tranny is a carry-over. It's the same as the EA81 tranny and thus uses the EA81 clutch fork - same as the EA81 4WD's used. GD

No - it will not. All the cyclops grills were for dual headlamp setups - a quad lamp vehicle will not accept the dual lamps and grill without a lot of cutting and modification. The best option is to modify the stock '86 grill and install a center lamp from an '82. '80/'81 are quite a bit different and don't lend themselves to this modification. GD

EJ22's have a second throttle cable for the cruise. I'm not sure how much different it is, but you would probably want to use the EJ CC. GD

I'm sure it's just plain steel. Weld it, then heat the entire piece to red-hot with a torch - let it air cool and you should be good. That will relieve any stresses cause by the welding. GD

Yes - the procedure for bleeding the air out is to turn the wheel lock to lock about 5 times. The air will escape as it passes from the high pressure side to the return line. GD

I don't believe they are the same as the EA81's. You should be able to get a good used one at the junk yard or from the wanted forum here on this board. They are common and rarely break. You could also weld your cracked one - it would likely never break again with a bit of reinforcement. GD

That is most likely a dealer-installed EA82 CC kit. The "factory" EA81 cruise is a total mess of a system. That's one thing they improved upon greatly after the EA81's. GD

You jumped into the middle of someone else's thread with a question that we cannot answer without more detailed information - we don't even know what car you are working on!?!? Please start your own thread with the appropriate information so we can accurately address your question. GD

Wet tests don't work well on boxer engines - the oil seals the valve seats just about as well as it seals the rings. Rings are rarely the problem with these engines - the valve seats are usually the biggest compression issue. Stem seals will cause oil burning - usually the EA's need one or two valve jobs in their lifetime to stay in top running order. GD

Junkyard is the best option. You can usually find half a dozen that are good (bring your DMM) and it will probably be under $10 including the entry fee to the yard. GD

You will get an answer if you post in the older generation forum - this is not the place for specific questions. GD