GeneralDisorder

You just plumb one into the manifold and you try to keep the gauge as high as possible - manifold vacuum decreases as the throttle opens. High vacuum = closed throttle - Low vacuum = open throttle. A vacuum gauge can also tell you a lot about the condition of the engine - if you can read one.... GD

That's pretty typical for the Datsun crowd. Last one I sold to some guy in CA (for a 510) went for about $360 plus shipping. He was very happy. They aren't much good for anything but street vehicles anyway. Off-road they don't really cut it - they aren't designed for the big tires and slow speeds. GD

All the gaskets (including OEM) block that coolant passage. I beleive (although I can't remember the specific's for certain) that when I looked at it last time I noticed that the passage stops shortly after the head-block interface on one side or the other. It's not a critical flow point obviously. GD

I would make sure the entire system including the duty solenoids can flow freely. They only work with atmospheric pressure so any blockage or clogged filter can severely restrict their functionality. I know that's how it works on the non-feedback's, but I think the computer turns the EGR on/off via the aforementioned solenoid on the feedback systems. Thus the code you are getting. No problem - I hate to say it, but it may be cheaper and more reliable to swap out to the SPFI and then register it as an engine swap from an '87 or newer. Being an EA82 already, they wouldn't be able to tell you just swapped the manifold. GD

Check ebay for a radiator - there used to be listings where you could snag a brand new one for like $58 shipped. I got one a few years back for an '87 3-door. Also you should note that in 91 or 92 they changed the lower radiator hose and the angle of the connection at the radiator changed. So if you get a new radiator it *might* have the pre-91 lower hose, but then again it might not. Just be aware of the change and if you get a radiator with the newer style connection just go order a hose for a 93 Loyale. And when you are looking for radiators in parts catalogs also look for the late model Loyale pricing. Because of the hose change it might be a different part number and there's always the chance that it's cheaper. GD

So do you *need* the feedback system to pass your emissions tests? With the CEL on I would assume you don't.... but I ask anyway. When the carb was rebuilt did you remove the throttle shafts? And was there any play in them? I ask because setting the throttle plates in a touchy business and it's best if they are not disturbed.... if you can help it. The rich idle - is that warm or cold? I'm assuming warm as it would be normal for it to be rich when cold and I suspect you know that. On the feedback carbs there are two ports on the side - low speed and high speed "sensing" ports. The carb receives a metered amount of filtered air into these ports by way of the duty solenoids - they turn on and of at a frequency determined but the ECU. It's a sqaure wave signal and many modern DMM's will actually read duty-cycle so it's not impossible to troubleshoot the system. You may have an issue with a blockage on the low-speed circuit - less air gets you more fuel IIRC although it might be the other way around. At any rate this duty cycle is largely determined by the O2 sensor and the coolant temp sensor. That could be related to the low-speed circuit I was talking about above, or it could be worn throttle shafts, sticking linkage, bad throttle cable, etc. Surging is a good indication of a lean condition. Being that you are having a very rich idle and a super lean WOT..... is there a possibility that the electrical connectors for the low speed and high speed duty solenoids were switched at some point? Or the air lines going to/from then were swapped around? The EGR is probably just the solenoid. An easy fix - just replace the solenoid with any 12v solenoid you have around. The manifold pressure sensor ("boost" sensor) is a tough one. I've never actually found one that was *good*. In my experience they have all failed. The cost from the dealer is really astronomical and it probably wouldn't last any better than the original. This little gem was the death nail for my attempts at making the EA82 feedback system function as designed - and the fact that the engine was totally gutless with the feedback hitachi. My only reccomendation is to source an EA81 feedback ECU and wire it in. They didn't use the MAP sensor. That would seem to indicate that you might have issues with where the throttle plate is set with the choke pulled off. It should basically die if you cut off the idle circuit fuel supply. But then again it may be getting too much air from the low speed circuit - again I might be backwards on the duty solenoid operatioin. It's either more air or less though (as if you couldn't have figured that out ) I wouldn't be concerned about it. The PCV won't affect runnability - it will only cause you to foul the oil quicker if it's not functional. Wouldn't matter if it was. The EA series fuel pumps only put out about 1.5 to 2 psi - not enough to blow the float needle off the seat. I've run plenty of them with no fuel return line at all - Weber's too. It's not neccesary. In fact it's not even included on 80/81 models where the pump is located in the engine bay. I think it's primary purpose was to insure that the pump would have a good supply of fresh gasoline to cool it under all potential operating conditions. GD

Any EA81 radiator (including automatic') will fit. Other's could be made to fit with some fabrication but only EA81's are a direct bolt-in. GD

NOTHING on a Subaru is SAE - 3/4" would be very near 19mm, but 11/16" doesn't have an even equivelent - it's 17.46mm.... I hate parts stores that do that - it's a METRIC car. I wouldn't guess that it wouldn't matter. The size difference is negligible - I would just go with the larger one's seeing as you have an EA82 and I beleive the drums are a bit larger than the EA81's. GD

They have worn a groove in the drum and are binding on it. Get a big hammer. Likely some stuff will get bent and it may fly apart when it lets go..... I think there may be a way to release the self-adjusting ratchet mechanism from the back but I don't remember exactly how it works. GD

Remove the axle nut and pull. Some EA82's had self-adjusting shoe's - if there is no adjuster then they are self adjusting and there is no need to pull the drum except to replace it or the shoes. GD

It would be difficult, it would not reduce weight in the slightest, and it's not the weak link. Running in RWD will eat the transfer gears long before the 4WD engagement system will fail. It's well documented. Start looking for spare tranny's now.... GD

Is your '81 Brat a GL with an EA81? If so you can likely do it (it won't work with the EA71), but the 1981 Brat belongs to the Historic section of this board and as such most of the folks that hang out here in the old gen section have no idea what you need to do to swap in a 5 speed. I know a couple things - first you will have to lower the tranny (possibly the engine as well) or modify the floor-pan sheet metal to accommodate the larger diameter of the 5 speed. You will have to swap in the two-piece driveline from the '89 or have a custom driveline made, and you will have to fabricate a new transmission cross-member. There's very few out there that have done this swap due to the rare nature of the '81 GL with the EA81. In fact they are so rare I would hessitate to modify it at all unless you know what you are doing. GD

Very heavy car - they overheat easily and need rebuilding often. It is not likely to be an easy fix as the overheating causes the fluid to bake and clog up passages in the tranny. ATF is a great cleanser.... except when what you are trying to clean is *bad* ATF! With some modifications you can install a 5 speed (they only came stock with auto's). GD

You have more than I have and *I* have more than should be allowed. Hell I can't keep up with the Subaru projects I have - there's only so many hours to the day when you work a 40 hour week. Are you independently wealthy that you can devote your full time to this!?! I wish that were the case for me . Someday perhaps. GD

Where is it leaking? The vent should be plumbed to the charcoal canister under the hood.... Otherwise all the lines are solid steel except where they attach to the top of the tank - those can only be accessed by dropping the fuel tank out of the car - which is a terrible job :-\ GD

Coat the cork completely in a thin film of RTV and let it dry. The cork tends to absorb oil, which then cooks down and the gaskets end up shrunken and hard. If you coat them in RTV first you are *making* your own rubber gasket. They seal better and last longer. I do this for oil pans as well. GD

10 x 1.25 x 20 ought to do it for the bolts that hold the mounts to the block - you need 4 of them. 2 nuts of the same 10 x 1.25 to hold the mounts to the engine cross-member. GD

The dealership can get them for a couple $ GD

Cracked blocks on EJ22's are unheard of (really unheard of on ANY Subaru - they just don't do that).. Probably radiator - maybe head gaskets but not likely at that mileage. EJ22's are known to go 300k before major mechanical failures. GD

Can you modify the lift so it doesn't put strain on the bushing? Probably a PITA but I don't think anything "sealant" wise is going to stop 150 psi air getting between a poorly fitting rubber-to-metal interface. That's a LOT of pressure - hell sometimes I have trouble sealing NPT threads against that much GD

If they are being strained by the lift.... how is a sealant going to help? Maybe I'm not picturing it correctly.... GD

You have to use the EA82 flywheel to accommodate the XT6 clutch. The EA81 flywheel can be used but it requires that a specific clutch disc be used - not all of the one's made for the EA82 will fit the EA81 flywheel. Some had square(ish) damper spring housings and some are round. The small round one's will fit but thee square units will not and neither will the larger round units like the XT6, etc. Jerry (Bratsrus1) makes a nice kit for that exact purpose and his price is very reasonable for the professional level of workmanship in his x-member. I have used his kit for my Brat, and I also did a mount conversion to my wagon where I used 5 speed mounts on the 4 speed (might give you some ideas): http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/4speed_mounts.html You will also have to lengthen the 4WD shift rod by 1" for it to bolt to the 5 speed. GD

Actually - here's a better post I made with pictures. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=826899&postcount=10 You need the 1/4" diameter line on the driver's side to act as a vacuum breaker for the PCV. GD

If the coupe is not a turbo and it has a 3.9 rear diff it should work fine. It's the turbo models with the 3.7 rear diff and the 1.2:1 low range that are to be avoided (for your type of project - there are people that kill for them for other uses). GD

Typically I like to see 140 to 160 on the comp. No more than 10% difference between cylinders. You have about 26% there. You should at least run it till you get everything normalized (oil pressure, coolant temp, no smoking, etc), And retest the comp. If you still have comp. issues, and you had the valves done? Then I would say you might have a couple scored cylinders or poor ring sealing. That's assuming that the smoke stops, etc. Perhaps the head gasket didn't get torqued down quite right - you did wire wheel the bolts, chase the threads in the block and oil them before torquing yes? GD