GeneralDisorder

Don't let that fool you - they die regularly. And they weren't made by Subaru - it's an IHI turbo. Originally of Mitsubishi origin. GD

There's really 3 different EA81 fender's out there - 80/81, 82, and 83+. They changed the marker light cutout in '82 but kept the DS antenna, then in '83 moved the antenna to the PS. GD

Actually the marker light cutout area of the fenders is different. And the antenna is on the wrong side. GD

Yep - that's why I always gut them. GD

When properly functioning, the heat rejection of Subaru radiators is more than sufficient for 120 degree F operation. The approach temperature with a 192 thermostat is generally about 210. Even 120 degree air will absorb enough of the heat from the radiator to pull the temp down to 192 at the outlet. I drove my 93 Legacy today at 2:30 this afternoon - about 110 degrees on the road. Drove about 20 miles with the AC cranked. Engine temp was it's usual solid 210 degrees (needle smack in the middle). The engine had no issues at all - the AC could barely keep it around the high 70's in the cabin though It was WAY too hot today. It was 104 in our shop - we started 2 hours early so we could get out of there at 2 pm. GD

That's correct - they are for AC. GD

You can use that distributor - but you have to remove the ignitor and use just the coil by itself. Just ditch the ignitor and the resistor - you don't need them with that distributor. If you go SPFI, you will HAVE to add a fuel return line. The SPFI cannot function without it. GD

The EA82 radiators have a bad tendancy to clog internally after 10 or 15 years of poor maintenance. They have very small tubes. It's best if you just replace it - you have classic symptoms of a clogged radiator. GD

I'm not as familiar with 80/81 models (in general, they suck) - that probably is stock. But you can eliminate all that if you simply install an 82+ distributor and coil. The 82+ coils are designed to work at full alternator output and do not require the ballast resistor. The ignitor is inside the distributor so you also eliminate that. You can then eliminate the external VR and install the 82+ internally regulated alt and put the fuel pump under the car near the tank where it rightfully belongs. Too much work though unless you can't find an 82+. There's just too many issues with the first two years of the gen II models - the only cool thing is the gauge cluster but it's a whole lot easier to swap an 80 cluster into an 82+ than to fix all the minor issues associated with the early years. GD

The ECU can be completely removed and the engine will still run - your problem is likely a bad coil - check the resistance of the two windings in the coil. There is no ballast resistor on Subarus. The ignitor is in the distributor - if the coil tests good then likely you need a new ignitor. Being a 2WD you would have a ND coil and distributor. You can swap them out with the Hitachi gear if you swap both. GD

It was a few years back that I got those. I don't drive EA82's anymore so I haven't needed one in a long while. Still - the single core's are much cheaper than the two-core and I bet my local discount import parts house could get me a radiator for under $75 GD

What you saw was headers for a turbo. Very different and not applicable to your car. For one the entire engine cross-member is different to allow the up-pipe to connect with the turbo. Then behind the turbo you have a down-pipe which connects to a mid-pipe and muffler that are similar (but larger) than yours. All the newer Subaru's still use the y-pipe layout for the non-turbo's. I don't know if a 2.5 liter header would fit but someone in the new-gen forum probably would know. I have had good luck welding the headers on gen-1 legacy's like yours that have cracked. I've done a couple and haven't had a problem. GD

Typically that's not a sticker - that's two-tone paint. My GF just had her '07 front-end redone from a collision and I had a close look at that general area. Yours might be different of course, but it looks like paint bubbling to me. GD

How's the seal on your dip-stick? Oil fill cap? The PCV is a closed system - it is part of the vacuum system and must be sealed. GD

Yeah - they don't fit very well but for the savings involved it's worth the hassle. I had to grind a bit on the bolt holes to get them to line up on at least one side as the bolt pattern is too narrow IIRC. They do the job though and the alternative is quite a bit of work: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/4speed_mounts.html\ GD

Frankly a NEW single row, properly maintained (coolant changed annually), will do the job just fine. The OEM one was a single row and it lasted how many years with sub-par maintenance? It's all in how you maintain (or don't maintain) them. Two-row's are useful for turbo applications where modifications are being contemplated. They aren't needed nor recommended for N/A applications. And I would be hard-pressed to justify the additional $100 they cost. I have put $58 ebay radiators in at least 4 EA82's now - they have all been just fine even on 100 degree days. GD

Harbor Freight has a set that goes up to 17mm for like $12. I wouldn't be surprised if the smaller ones broke easily but 14mm is pretty big so I wouldn't guess that strength would be an issue. I have a set that I've impacted quite a few times with my 650 lb gun and never broke the larger sizes (12, 14, and 17). GD

Typically you can get those nuts off with a breaker bar and a big hammer. Wear a glove and hit the breaker bar close to the neck. Just keep at it - it will take some time. It's a poor man's impact. But it does work. Hell I removed one the other day with a Harbor Freight 1/2" ratchet handle with the whole spindle off the car! I just kept hitting it and it eventually spun off. Took about 10 minutes. I was being lazy and didn't want to turn on the compressor GD

14mm allen socket and an impact (or breaker bar if you can't get an impact on it). GD

Yeah - that sounds like a typical Hitachi stumble Have you sprayed around for vac leaks? Having given it some thought - the feedback system would have nothing to do with an off-idle stumble like that. It's got to be with the carb itself - either there's a vacuum leak and the idle speed/mixture is out of adjustment (it would have to be to run with a vac leak), the accelerator pump isn't strong enough, or the throttle plate isn't sitting on the transition ports correctly. The feedback system is largely for idle and cruise operation - it's not capable of making adjustments fast enough to affect acceleration, and it's not going to be useful for WOT. What does it do when you just *barely* expose the transition port? Just slightly holding the throttle cracked away from the idle stop screw? Will it run with the throttle plate almost completely closed or do you have it "turned up" using the idle speed screw? If so that's indicative of a vacuum leak. GD

That fixes your problem because you aren't putting any torque on the ratchet. It is merely there to hold the removal tool - you strike the tool with a large hammer and it acts like an impact gun. The 1/2" drive hole in the tool is actually for a breaker bar to keep the tool from bouncing all over the place when you hit it. It is the BEST way to remove axle nuts if you don't have an impact. I carry one with me in my junk-yard tool kit. At home I have air so I don't need it, but it is indispensable for people that don't have air guns and need to work effectively on the cheap. Also - I know it's probably not in your budget, but a *quality* 1/2" ratchet would likely not have broken. I prefer the Snap-On stuff myself and you can pick them up reasonably on eBay. You can't lose on eBay for Snap-On since they are guaranteed anyway. If you break it just take it to a truck and have the guts swapped out. GD

Being that an EA81 only weighs about 175 pounds - you shouldn't have an issue. If you can, brace the one you are going to use by running 2x4's from it to the roof at 90 degrees to the roof line. This will allow the load to be distributed to the (much stronger) roof structure. GD

You need one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Cooled-36mm-Axle-Removal-Tool/dp/B001CTJQLW GD

Actually you don't want to cap that third port on the solenoid - that's the vent port and allows the line from the solenoid to the EGR valve to vent to atmosphere when the solenoid closes - that breaks the vacuum in the line to the EGR and allows it to close if it happened to be open when the solenoid closes. GD

The EJ22 takes about 5 lbs of boost very well actually. There's a number of folks that have added a small EJ22T sized turbo and a WRX IC. At 5 lbs the engine gains about 60 to 70 HP owing to it's already high compression. Since the EJ engines were designed from the outset for turbo-charging, the N/A 22 handles it very well at low boost. You can easily break 200 HP (and be reliable) with one and it's cheap in comparison to other vehicles since most of the parts can be had as cast-offs from someone else's turbo upgrade. But do what you like. Without forced induction there's really almost nothing you can effectively do with an N/A engine that is worth the hassle. If I'm not going to get 20+ HP from it - I'm not taking the time to do it. GD