GeneralDisorder

Yeah - they are still around as far as I know. They do all kinds of stuff besides distributors. Someone I work with recently mentioned them in reference to some DC motors I think... http://www.philbingroup.com/ GD

They were not imported to the US. AUS got them and probably parts of Europe. First touring wagon body for the US market was '89 GD

Nowhere - they are no longer manufactured. You could try the dealer, but your results may vary. Have it rebuilt. GD

What do you mean? Your choices are EA81, EA82, or EJ22 if you absolutely have to use the Weber. GD

Did you lose the check valve ball from the bottom of the accelerator pump cylinder? It goes under the spring - it's about 1/8" in diameter and made of a nylon (plastic) material. GD

Sell it - IMO. The EJ22's fuel injection is one of it's best features. But you could use the Weber with the EJ22. It requires a custom manifold and a Ford Escort distributor (runs off the back of the passenger head). It's been done - do a search. GD

You can just bring them a pipe (cut long) and tell them you need it bent at an angle of X degrees. Then you trim either end and weld the sucker on or have a friend with a welder do it. Exhaust is just tubing - no more, no less. It's not rocket science to replace a bad section of pipe. Screw all the exhaust shops. I would rather do it myself - they charge WAY too much for what they do. And have you seen a lot of these guy's idea of a weld?!? My grandmother could run a bead better from her power chair. GD

I am partial to the Korean war era colors - straight OD green with a white (or red ) star. Even when I was in the Army (joined in '98), we still had a few Korean era trucks in service that you could faintly see the outline of the white star on the side under the modern camo paint they wear now. The digital is also interesting but difficult to create with paint. I hate to say it, but the boat camo should stay on boats.... it IS cool, but putting it on a car defeats the purpose of the design, and with camo paint in general - the whole point is "function before beauty" - I think the concept is rendered baseless when used for the wrong type of vehicle like that. And I don't think it would be wise to try to "confuse" other driver's about the direction you are traveling - probably right up there with dip-chromeing an entire car. GD

Depends - EA82's came in carb, throttle body injection, multi-port injection, and multi-port injected turbo models. The carb versions (as well as the throttle body versions if you use a carb manifold) will accept Weber's. If you want to install it in an EA81 body then you will have to notch the drivers side frame rail as the engine is quite a bit wider (forget about taking the heads off with it in the car). The notch is needed to clear the rear of the valve cover on the driver's side as that bank of cylinders is just a bit farther toward the rear. You will also have to move the hill holder and cut down one of the master cylinder bleeder screws in order to clear the distributor. It can be done, but for the effort it's not worth the 10 HP. If you go with the throttle body injection retrofit and just happen to have an extra EA82 laying around (such as I did) then it makes an additional 17 HP over the EA81 and has increased driveability due to the injection..... it's a tough call with EJ22's being so cheap and a lot of folks making adaptor plate's availible to the community. For about the same amount of work that gets you 17 HP with the SPFI EA82 you can get 62 HP with the EJ22 swap - better and more reliable engine with increased fuel effeciency AND no notching of the frame rail or moving of the HH - the EJ engines are narrower than the EA82. GD

If it's a lifter you are safe to drive it - they are merely annoying. The causes can be various but in no case will it harm the engine in any major way. If it's a timing belt compoenent you could potentially snap the belt. Replacing the failed component and the belt would fix it though. These aren't interferance engines so you can't hurt them with a belt breakage. GD

I'll almost gaurantee it's not a rod. Subaru rod bearing failures are very rare. When they do occur they blow though the top of the block as it is relatively thin aluminium. It sounds like you have a lifter noise or something going south in one of the timing belt tensioners or idler. I don't live far from your work but I can't get over there today. GD

Green connectors should be connected for timing adjustment. Timing is set to 20 degrees BTDC. GD

You can always just cut off the bolt heads and replace them. The flange will seperate without the bolts holding it. I've had to do that even here in the PNW. GD

Nope - power brakes were used starting in the 70's.... possibly all the way back to the introduction of the EA series. GD

So lose the extra cat, and have someone with a bender put a slight bend in the replacement pipe. Cut the flange off the old cat and go with a straight section for that whole mess. If you want a cat - buy a $50 generic unit off ebay and add that to the mix. GD

The pump and reservoir and such are located under the driver's side fender I beleive..... GD

You don't need the resonator. Replace it with a solid section of pipe. Just weld in a section to replace it - no need to go and buy expensive exhaust sections from the dealer for a 10 year old car. GD

What does this "rattle" sound like and when is it occuring? Subaru rod knocks usually only show under load. Are you sure it's not hydraulic lifter ticking? It can be very loud and to the uninitiated it sounds like a mechanical failure of some sort. Where are you in Portland? I'm in West Linn. I don't have a dolly but perhap I could tell you if it's serious enough to need one or not. I've heard about every sound a Subaru can make. GD

Mine ('85 Brat) measures about 2.75" from the tire to the wheel arch in the front, and about 5" in the rear. All of my adjusters are completely down. But I may have different tires than you have as well (which would account for the larger front AND rear measurement). The stance sounds correct with your current springs. Again I highly doubt you will see any change with new springs. If it changed then your camber would be toast and you would wear tires something fierce as happens when you crank up the adjusters. Brat's don't sit flat like the other body styles. Not enough weight in the rear. GD

But why not lift it instead? Hatch's do very well lifted.... Are you also planning an engine/tranny swap? I would think more power would be needed for auto-x or whatever you plan on doing with a lowered EA81 and the 4 speed's are almost worthless for daily driving let alone race usage... GD

They are Parker (Fluid Power) Tru-Seal's - they have a Teflon ring inside the ID of the nut. They are used to seal problematic NPT threads. http://www.parker.com/literature/Miller%20Fluidpower/miller/cat/TruSeal_02.pdf I also used Loctite 545 hydraulic sealant on the threads. Probably a bit of overkill, but being NPT threads and the tank being plastic I didn't want to crank the barbs in too tight and crack the tank. I seriously doubt I will ever have a leak. (I do industrial machinery for a living, so I'm pretty confident in my thread sealing ability ) GD

Using cheap oil is about the worst decision you can make for your engine. Go to costco and get Chevron - about the best price I've found and high quality. About $30 for a case of 12. GD

The best source for all that stuff is the dealer. The water tank nipples breaking off is extremely common. Unfortunately the water tank's are expensive and retro-fitting the newer turbo tank's is problematic as they are different sizes and shapes. My solution was to cut the barbs off flush, tap them with a 1/4" NPT tap and install 1/2"x1/4" NPT hose barbs. I used true-seals and Loctite hydraulic sealant on the threads and trimmed the barbs back to about 3/4". Been great for over a year now. I don't see it ever failing again with my modifications. The coolant lines and plastic nipples are best purchased from the dealer - don't cheap out on this stuff. I replaced every single coolant line in mine and the cost was around $175 for all of them. These aren't cheap engines to maintain after they have been neglected for so many years. Unfortunately they are also very rare and as such you simply won't find any parts in the junk yards. I have seen a grand total of 2 1st generation legacy turbo's in the junk yards in the last 10 years. GD

Make sure you take the requisite minimum amount of time to compress it to avoid damage to the hydraulic cylinder. I beleive 3 minutes is the minimum time allowable to compress it. I use a c-clamp and then insert a small diameter drill bit through the pin hole. GD

So long as you aren't going off-road with that setup I think it's a fine idea. Although I generally just open the radiator drain cock and let enough out that it brings the level down below the coolant cross-over in the manifold. GD