GeneralDisorder

Check the pressure with a good mechanical gauge. GD

There is no air on the moon so you would have to carry a ton of compressed air under extreem pressure (a bomb).... not viable because of that. Besides that, the whole rover weighed like 425 lbs. An EA82 with a propane bottle would weight half that. Internal combustion engines are limited to earth I'm afraid. A better power source for a new rover would be an RTG I would think. Expensive though. Experts say the orignal rover's (still on the moon) could smply be charged and driven even today. An artifact of the moon having no atmosphere to corrode anything. GD

Volts & amps? Temperature of the pump? Fuel pressures? Return lnes clear? We are going to need more info. I sugest you get some used fuel pumps or start using the Ford F150 pumps that are much cheaper. The pump's are simple rotory vane pumps - they are cooled by fuel flowing through them. If there is not enough fuel flow through the pump they will overheat and fail. GD

The Lunar rover? That was electric..... GD

Yeah - that's the original Hitachi. There's several distinct features that give it away. Although it's been hacked up and modified a bit. The arm on the front for the accelerator pump and the seperate throttle base pretty much nail it and the fact that it's bolted to the original EA82 manifold means it's a DCZ as those are the only carbs that natively fit the EA82 manifold. Older Subaru carb use a different flange pattern. I would sugest you invest in a Weber, and you need to reroute the PCV as it looks to have been done incorrectly. If you want to rebuild that carb buy a generic rebuild kit for an '85 4WD GL station wagon. That will get you the DCZ-328 carb kit that you need for that thing. GD

The question isn't "Did I pay too much?", the question is "Why would you want a Loyale at any price?".... they don't have the one redeeming quality of the EA82's - the D/R transmission. Any engine that has been "rebuilt" and has ticking lifters after only 50k is suspect. That throws red flags for me and I would have walked. But I would rather buy something with major problems that I know hasn't had 37 moron's crawling all over it durring it's lifetime. The only thing worse for a car than a previous owner is the previous owners "mechanic" GD

You would also at least have to dimount the spot welded skid plate mount and bolt it on instead to get the rack in anc out. I have never seen it done nor a write up on it. But i'll check into it if it's that easy. Aa for aquiring EA81 PS racks - they are fairly plentiful here still. Not in most places though. GD

You can't fit a power steering rack to a non-power steering cross-member without major reworking of the cross-member. It's not viable. Much better to find an EA81 power rack and cross-member. GD

Ok - I have a question about your kit. Does it rely on the factory bosses for the EA81T power steering being on the block? In other words would it work with the non-hydro lifter block's that don't have the bosses for the PS in the center? I'm pondering using the EA82 power steering pump with an EA81T power steering reservior in order to hook into an EA81T power steering rack & cross-member. The engine in question will end up being a blow-through turbo setup so I need to keep the power steering lines on the drivers side. GD

The EA81 pulley needed an even shorter spacer to clear enough of the threads to make it viable. There *might* be another 1/16" available beyond what I cut the spacer down but I cut it very close. The two-groove pulley from the EA82's is thinner where it mates to the shaft and allows the nut more purchase on the threads. Even at that the nut isn't flush with the end of the shaft so I fear the single groove EA81 pulleys (the two-peice one's anyway) are too thick to work on the Maxima alt. Using the twin groove pulley is only neccesary due to the shaft fitment. There might be single peice v-groove pulleys out there that would work - I didn't have any handy. But there is no reason that you can't use the twin-groove pulley in all the single belt applications. Just go yank one from a yard and stick it on. It's not going to hurt anything to run a single belt over a two-bely pulley. GD

The pulley I took off the maxima alt is a 4 rib. GD

'85 to '89 hatchbacks were EA81 *or* EA71 (STD model) '85 to '87 Brat's were EA81's. Both came in GL's and DL's, and the hatch also came in the STD model. The EA81 was introduced in 1981. Prior to '81 they used the EA71 (1600) and before that they used the EA63 (1400). GD

I commend your efforts. Sadly you won't see much better than 30 MPG in mileage and anything you do for performance is only going to use *more* fuel to get there. Your engine is an air pump - all it does is move air from the intake to the exhaust. It does this by mixing in a small amount of flammable vapor and then igniting the mixture to create a motive force on the pistons. To increase effeciency you have to move MORE air with LESS fuel. To increase power you have to get more motive force from each cylinder full of air - that means MORE fuel. Best mixture for economy is around 14.5:1 Best mixture for power is around 12:1 Those are general rules but as you can see your goals are very much at odds with one another. The more you increase the performance (and drive it like you stole it) the worse your effeciency will be. More advance is always better but you risk pinging if you go too far. Advance it till you get pinging then pull back a degree or two. If you have backfireing it's due to holes in the y-pipe or a malfunctioning air injection system. Leave the y-pipe stock for best scavenging effect and run a 2" open system all the way out. A resonator and a cherry bomb will do nicely for a decent rumble without being obscenely loud. It would do precisely nothing. The stock airbox is more than sufficient for the demands of the engine. Being that you are unwilling to remove the carb and replace it with a Weber or fuel injection..... sadly the answer is no. If I were you I would take pictures, label everything, and remove the entire manifold. Install a used manifold with a Weber and then swap back when you need to pass smog. Or just swap the whole engine out. It's not really that difficult. If you were to get a used engine you could pull it and change back to your "smog" engine in a matter of hours. GD

If you use an EA81T crank pulley and water pump then it works out much better - both have dual groove pulleys and they have the same size grooves - so it works just like the EA82 dual-belt system. This is only feasible if you run either no power steering or use the EA81T power steering pump and bracket - the non-hydro lifter EA81 blocks don't have the bosses to bolt on the turbo style power steering bracket though so if you have a solid lifter EA81 with power steering it won't work. GD

No that is the wrong system for your brat. you need spfi, the xt is mpfi. the manifold wont fit. GD

First, being you are new here you should know that the appropriate place for your model is actually the "New Generation" forum. Also, no diagnostic equipment is needed for your model. You simply connect the male/female diagnostic plugs under your dash together and the CEL will flash you the codes. From your description it's probably either a knock senor, evap purge solenoid or the O2 sensor going out. All of those are not uncommon and relatively inexpensive. GD

*quality* zip ties don't have that problem. And if you periodically check the belt tension then you are replacing them every 10k or so. Don't buy the chinese zip ties. GD

Basically that's the idea - upgrading the wire from the alt to the junction and from the junction to the battery as a safety measure is a good idea. Especially if some future owner of said vehicle were to run his 5,000 watt staduim lighting system directly from the battery with no fuses. Yeah - I would agree with most of that. The Nissan alternator is for those casual EA series owners that want a stricktly bolt-in operation with no metal-work or other modifications. The GM alts are nice but when it comes time to sell the vehicle or move your stereo/lights you may have to buy another one or unmodify, etc. For those of us that tend to change cars like we change underwear, a bolt in operation is preferable. I don't like spending a lot of time on modifications to the woman's car for example - I would much rather just install the alt and send her to the stereo shop . The GM is a bit cheaper as well in the aftermarket, but not by a lot. The Maxima alt is considerably cheaper than the XT6 90 amp unit. About $85 for the Maxima alt minus the core charge from rockauto. Yes - there are advantages to both and it may depend on where you live. For me, with the abundance of self service wrecking yards as well as early Maxima's (and me not knowing sqaut about american cars in general) the Nissan alt is the way to go. Plus it's a good feeling to be replacing a Hitachi with another Hitachi. Not that there's anything wrong with the GM alt, but the fact that it's all put together with non-metric fasteners makes me cringe. You're welcome as always. GD

That's not a stock air filter - we will need pics to identify it. If it's really that small though it's probably the stock carb. Don't think you could get a 3" round filter to fit the Weber. Swapping to the Weber is pretty simple. You just buy the carb and the adaptor plate and bolt it on. The PCV has to be routed correctly as well. That's all there is to it if you buy the carb new and already jetted. If you buy a used carb then you may have to change jetting. GD

I meant at the connector to the alt. With the Nissan unit you just plug it into the stock wireing connectors. The GM has a different connector that needed to be changed. Perhaps not all GM alts use the same connector but the one I used (the newer, small-case GM alt style) did require a connector swap. No matter how big of an alternator you install, the draw off it will be the same as long as you don't change what you are running off it. If you are adding lights, stereo's, and other higher-draw equipment, then the output wire running from the alt to the main junction (the fusible links) should be upgraded and any additional circuits should be properly fused with their own run from the main junction. The existing circuits in the car aren't going to draw more than 50 amps as that's what they were designed to use - you could install a 1000 amp alternator and it wouldn't make a bit of difference to the wireing sizes unless you started drawing more than the stock equipment. I find that the stock 55 amp units are not really powerful enough at idle. They *can* produce 55 amps but only once they hit several thousand RPM. At idle they are lucky to make about 20 amps and that's just not enough to run the lights, stereo, cabin fan, etc. When you are wheeling you spend a good deal of time idleing and having the extra power availible at low RPM's is desireable. Add a few spot-lights and some decent tunes while you are on the trail and the stock units are almost unbearable. GD

Sounds like you have an '85 through '87 EA82. If it's running the stock carb then it should be one of those years. All the carbs are pretty close to the same on the EA82's - it's going to be a Hitachi DCZ-328. The kits they sell for these commonly fit all the years and models. The carb could have been replaced - Weber 32/36 DGV's are the most common swap as there is a commercially available adaptor plate for them. Is the air filter a kindney bean shaped black unit, a small chrome rectangle, or something else entirely? GD

Sounds like a throwout bearing on the clutch or the tranny input shaft bearing. Does it stop if you push in the clutch? Perhaps it's time for a 5 speed swap. Very easy with the lift. GD

He says it changes with engines speed though - that wouldn't be an axle. GD

What fluid was low? Engine oil or transmission oil? Do you have an EA81 with hydro lifters? If the oil is really low they can tick. GD

Do you mean it clicks in relation to RPM? If not, then what gears make the noise and how does it change when you switch gears? GD