GeneralDisorder

The specs you have are refering to using an external vacuum source (mityvac, etc) to test the regulator operation. It is not a rising-rate regulator - the fuel pressure must be kept constant so the ECU can accurately meter the injected fuel by altering the injector duty cycle. I am pretty sure on this one although I don't have my fsm in front of me. There is an electronic version over on my SPFI conversion write up page if someone wants to check. I can't get there right now as i'm on browsing from my phone which doesn't have a pdf viewer. GD

*factory* CC was mounted there on '83 and '84 models. *dealership* installed CC was a kit that could be installed to any EA81 without it from the factory - it was different and the main power switch was located down by your right knee. GD

As stated the vacuum is ported to the FPR - you will get nothing at idle. Your spec for the fuel pressure is wrong. It is supposed to be a constant 21 psi. Your fuel pressure is dead on. Look elsewhere for your problem. GD

Yeah - I could have them reversed - been a while since I looked at one with either. Basically the three you generally see there are Center Lamp, Fog Lamps, and Cruise Control - I don't think I'm priveleged enough to have actually seen one with all three of them but they surely existed. GD

Remove the rear CV's and test drive it. They are removed easily by knocking out the roll pins on the splined stub shafts of the diff and the axle shaft that runs through the bearings. If your sound remains after removing the rear axles then it's clearly a wheel bearing. Either way - if it's bearings or CV's you will have to remove them. If it's the bearings you'll know, and if it's the CV's you'll already have them removed. GD

Sounds like one of the gear posistion switches (neutral switch or 4WD indicator, etc). They are plastic with plastic threads. I would disconnect it if you can and remove it to inspect the threads. I have not seen one leak like that but it could have vibrated loose or lost a sealing washer or something. Clean the entire area to be sure it is indeed leaking from that switch. GD

Too bad I've posted so much that a portion of the valuable information in the forum archives is in my posts - that and your own curiosity makes it highly unlikely that you'll leave that filter in place. Not that I care of course. There's been other's like yourself over the years around here. In the end they last a short time, contribute nothing, ask a ton of questions that could easily be answered by a search, and then dissapear - never to return. You will probably be no different. GD

Probably black. Power mirror control. An option you don't have. That would be the 80-82 center lamp switch location. Not used after 82. 80 through 82 would have had the cruise control main power switch in the right hand location. The one on the left could have been for dealer installed fog lights, etc. It depends on the year and model as different technicians could have installed the switches into different locations for dealer installed options such as cruise control and fog lamps, etc. None of these are important for an '86. They are just carry-over snap-out locations for accesories that probably were mostly unavailibly by '86. The EA81's were phased out after '84 except for the hatch and the brat which continued on as "cheaper" alternatives to the flagship EA82 line (which didn't have a comparably sized body style to either one). GD

I don't *need* to do anything. Respect is earned and I treat the majority of questions with the respect or lack thereof that they deserve. Ask a stupid question or walk a stupid path and I'll happily tell you about it. Simple fact is I help a lot of people around here solve difficult problems. Those that are willing to listen. I write what I need to in order to clearly get my point across. If that means I give headaches to those with 5th grade reading skills then so be it. I type fast and I read fast. Deal with it. That is quite the embellishment. I sugested that you remove the cam towers and inspect the cam-tower o-rings and the lifters. It's not difficult being you already had the timing belts off. It's well worth the $4 for the o-rings from the dealer and the extra couple hours it takes. And it's not even close to "tearing the whole engine down"..... I know cause I've done that too. There is no excuse for shoddy work. Do it right or do it again. Unfortunately the part that I have put in bold letters simply isn't true of the EA82T. Empirical evidence shows that they are not cheap to maintain if you want daily-driver reliability from them. Ergo - they can't both be a "cheap" beater and "run well".... not for long anyway. The "cheap" part will bite you - I and many others here can attest to that with virtual certainty. /BOOK GD

You're welcome. Seriously though - I'm done helping you. You don't listen. Age has nothing to do with this - it's experience and knowledge. If you don't want to listen then why come here? Go ahead and do as you like. Probably should take a look at your attitude - might be why you are unemployed and driving a sub-$500 beater at *approximately* my age You need to learn some attention to detail. You're punctuation and grammer are ugly and disorganized - I get the same feeling about your automotive skills. GD

I'll wager I've owned more old cars, and definitely owned more old Subaru's specifically. My '83 hatch that I drive daily right now has an extremely miscalibrated oil pressure gauge and a somewhat miscalibrated voltage gauge. Both read low. My Brat has a temp gauge that reads high. I've seen sending units go bad as well, but the inexpensive gauges in these cars are prone to changes in their calibration over time - it's just a fact. I work on industrial machinery every day and I probably replace more bad gauges than any other single common part - across all brands and models. They are cheap, throw away items. Not really. It's just a plain encapsulated thermistor. Very cheap and prone to breakdown of the semiconductor over time. If Subaru were really on the ball they would have allowed the ECU to be re-calibrated as the thermistor ages and it's resistance changes. I've seen plenty of them fail. Often times the ones you find in used cars have already been replaced a time or two. Perhaps - you won't know unless you actually test the operating temp now will you? My Brat's gauge reads high - but I checked it with a temp gun and with the thermocouple for my DMM - both indicate it is well withing normal operating range and the fan cycles normally with a brand new switch. The Brat cycles the fan on just as the needle reaches the bottom of the red. The needle then drops about 1/8" at the tip and the fan cuts off. I know the fan comes on at 210 and goes off at 195. That is perfectly normal for a vehicle with a stock 190 thermostat. But I KNOW - because I did the tests. You won't know till you do the proper tests to determine the actual conditions. GD

Have you verified the jetting yet? GD

A properly calibrated gauge should sit dead center at operating temp. You can change the calibration via a screw inside the gauge. I have seen and owned more than one that were off by a good amount. NEVER trust the stock gauge to be correct after 20+ years - that's just plain silly when you consider the risks involved and the ease with which it can be verified. GD

You won't need to switch the rear diff - almost all the D/R's are 3.9 and if your loyale is a manual then it's also a 3.9. It will bolt right in. You will need the console peices for the interior. The wireing does need to be spliced and if you use an 85 through 87 tranny you will have to fool the ECU into thinking you have a neutral switch by using a clutch pedal mounted CC switch as the early D/R's did not have that switch. GD

It was an early '85 then. Definately not an '84 - it could have been a title mistake or a very early production from late '84. Your computer is wrong. 85 to 89 are the D/R 5 speeds that will fit your car. 83/84 will only be 4 speeds. You will likely never see one that has been converted as the process is not straight forward enough for there to be a lot of them out there. GD

Heating it in glycol mix would be prefereable - it boil's higher than plain water and you can use a thermometer. Thermostat's don't snap open - they open over a temperature range. And you haven't done a detailed test to confirm the range - from when it first begins to open to when it's fully open. It may be partially openeing too soon. GD

I've seen the adjustable rear struts on many early 4WD's - 85 and 86 for sure. Probably 87 as well. It's hard to say for sure as some have been replaced over the years with aftermarket that aren't adjustable. I doubt the Loyale's had them. GD

Ok - so what we need is what I asked for in my first post. There is (unfortunately!) no such thing as a "stock" Weber. They didn't come stock on anything - they are not DOT approved. And even if they did they are designed for engines between 1.2 and 2.8 litres - each engine is going to have different jetting requirements. So - what is it "set up" (better than saying "stock) for? You shouldn't need a regulator unless the pressure is too high which is unlikely. But you never know till you test it. Invest $10 in a gauge. GD

They all should interchange. The differences are likely pretty small - except of course for the air suspention car's. I'm not sure of the EA82's ever came with adjustable front struts for the 4WD's, but that might be a difference as well. Primarily the differences in height are due to the springs not the struts. GD

The carb base heater (coolant passage) is purely ancillery. Unfortunately the real reason coolant runs through the intake is that this is a primary coolant cross-over passage from head-to-head. You can't eliminate any of the coolant lines. The one under the intake that goes to the block should be replaced with some new hose if it's hard and brittle. GD

Do you have a Digital Multi-Meter? Test both windings in the coil - I'm curious to see if you have weak spark at all. Next you should check that the throttle posistion sensor sweeps cleanly when you actuate it by hand - the readings should be smooth. Clean the MAF with some brake cleaner - the wires may be dirty. What would really help is if you could put a wideband O2 sensor on it and see if you are getting a lean condition. Could be a bad injector or something. Sounds likely that you have a fuel or ignition problem but it's very hard to troubleshoot over the internet. You might have to invest in some tools to figure this one out unfortunately. GD

We need more info: 1. What is your jetting? 2. What is your fuel pressure? 3. Is the choke opening? etc. GD

Problems with your methodology: 1. You haven't taken temp readings with a known accurate shop gauge to verify anything. 2. You haven't verified the exact opening temperature of your thermostat. Boiling water will test if it actually does open, but you still don't know the upper and lower bounds of when it begins to open and is fully opened. 3. You haven't verified the resistance vs. temperature of the coolant temp sensors you tried, nor have you checked that the gauge reads accurately when given a known resistance value in place of the sensor. If you did each of these tests you would then have the knowledge to take appropriate corrective action if any is neccesary. Till then you are just spinning you wheels. GD

Don't know how much you have read about what you are doing but I'll impart what I've learned. Use ONLY intake manifold gaskets from the dealer. They are built like mini-head gaskets - graphite impregnated metal. Use new bolts - zinc coated. Chase the threads in the block with a tap. Torque the bolts to 12 ft/lbs. Use anti-sieze obviously. GD

No press is required - just drive the axle shaft out of the bearings with a dead blow. If the fit is more than a dead-blow can handle then I'll thread the nut on and use a brass hammer. Just don't hit it without the nut in place and flush with the shaft or you will damage the threads. *If* you were going to use a press - there is no "special" press involved. It's just a normal shop press - you have to properly block up the knuckle so the press can get a straight shot at the axle but that's pretty easy with some peices of wood. We keep 1x, 2x, and 4x around in various lengths for such purposes. I have never done it though because I never remove the knuckle from the car - too much hassle. Just drive out the axle and pull the new one in. The fitment is quite loose actually. Often they slip in by hand. GD