GeneralDisorder

You just make some adaptors from flat-bar, weld them to the EA82 rails and then bolt the new "adaptor rail" to the seat of your choice. It's not that difficult. GD

A simple right angle screwdriver will remove it. As are included in most sets these days. The IAC is likely not your problem though. Hessitation like that can be a lot of things with an automatic. Last time I dealt with one it was a stretched timing belt. Run a d-check and see if you pull any codes. GD

It must have had a blockage. My Brat runs 21 psi with the original return line and I know of others that are the same. GD

There *are* some easy-out type products that do work. Especially on larger stuff - good examples are broken off pipe nipple threads - they work excelent in that application. These are the style I'm talking about: And you HAVE to buy high quality ones. The cheap ones will break every time - as grossgary says. Mostly the useful ones are in the top row in that picture. Also the left-hand drill bits will often spin a broken bolt out just drilling the hole in them. GD

At this point I think your best bet is to drill it oversized and heli-coil it. If you hadn't done all that drilling and chiseling you could have got it out by welding a nut to it and working it out. Sometimes takes half a dozen tries but it's by far the easiest way to do it. GD

http://shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopexd.asp?id=1156 GD

If it's a 2WD it could be - I thought the 4EAT was only on the FT4WD models. I would stay FAR, FAR away from any EA82T with an automatic - especially the 3AT. That's a serious recipe for disaster. GD

All the 4WD manual's were 4 speed's in the EA81 era. It really doesn't make any difference from a regular driving perspective as they are ultimately geared the same on the top end. There's a lot of reasons to prefer the 5 speed, but I drive a 4 speed daily right now and it's no big deal. The conversion is straightforward - there's a member here that makes a custom transmission cross-member that will bolt it up to the body and then the only issue is changing in the driveline. I have one in my Brat and it works great. Yeah - you may have to look at a few before you find one in decent shape. The LKQ wrecking yards often have "runners" for sale that only need minor repairs to be driveable. There's an 88 GL, 5 speed D/R at the Sherwood yard right now for $550. I'm not one to reccomend an EA82, but it would be an great deal to throw an EA81 in (bolts right up and the car is already setup for fuel injection), or do an EJ22 conversion. Other than that, craigslist is your best bet by far. The last couple deals I've got on there have been great. I bought a '94 Legacy GT (5 speed, raised roof touring model) wagon for $750 from a little old lady - needed a water pump so I did a full timing belt and water pump job on it to the tune of about $200 and a weekend of work. Drove it for another 12,000 without a single issue - drove to Reno and back three times in it. Great deal. More recently (since I'm known as a Subaru nut around here), I was given a '93 Legacy wagon with a bad alternator - $130 later I drove it home. Replaced a damaged fender and door and gave it to my mother. I'm probably into that car about $300 total. She loves it. There's deals out there - just wait and one will happen for you. GD

Probably not. Clear coat's only make things shiny. They get real ugly when they start to flake off. It won't protect it any more than the paint will. Several layers of paint. Then the key is to keep the waxed. Wax will protect the paint and keep them shiny. And it's replaceable. GD

No - the turbo 5 speed is much more like the later WRX tranny. The clutch design makes it very difficult to use an NA tranny with them. The SS was the only Gen 1 Legacy that used the hydraulic pusher-type clutch as found in the later USDM turbo cars. Final drive ratio is 3.9 on the SS. GD

That would be a head job - so yes it can. GD

It won't foul the cat - it just won't work as well. Newer cat's don't require this extra oxygen supply like the old cat's in the 80's did. Biggest problem with the ASV's is down the road when the reed valve fails. Better to block them, gut the stock cat, and install a $50 aftermarket cat if you need one. Besides that - being you have the feedback ASV, it's probably vacuum actuated and isn't even doing anything without a vacuum signal to it's diaphram. GD

And that's an ER27 in the larger engine bay of the EA82. An EG33 in the tiny bay of the EA81 is a shoehorn from hell. Might not even have a grill. I'm not entirely sure it would even clear the frame rails. GD

Here's a spot about the Justy LSR. http://jalopnik.com/252682/super-salty-123-mph-subaru-justy The HP is variously reported - they claim 99 in that bit but on the article we used to have posted on the "main" USMB page it was stated as 120..... at 11,900 RPM IIRC. 40mm Mikuni's and a hot cam. They claim it even would idle.... barely. It ran up around 125 MPH. Held the land speed reccord for the 1.0 liter class for a very long time. GD

There are good reasons to do some of these things, but they were not well implemented with the EA82. The Justy engine is an excelent design - it does have a weak oil pump but other than that it's not bad at all. It's a 9 valve engine and has amazing performance for it's small size. The same performance as an EA71 (1.6) from a 1.2 liter. And the CVT was bad, but many, many Justy's were built with 5 speed's in both 2WD and 4WD. Subaru built a Justy for Bonneville with 120 HP.... from a 1.0 liter. You have to appreciate the Justy for what it was - an inexpensive, highly economical compact. Can you point out any other compacts with available 4WD and the ability to get 40 MPG or more? GD

Unscrew the ASV valve from the steel pipe and drop in a quarter. Or you can weld up the hole in the spacer under the head. As for the vacuum advance - just buy a new section of silicone vacuum line. It will stretch to accomidate the larger nipple and you won't need an adaptor. GD

I undestand where you are comming from, and the only thing I can tell you is - when you own a few more and have had some time and mileage on them you will understand. The EA82 isn't bad as a *car*, but it is bad as a *Subaru*. What I mean is - compared to what came before it and after it, they are not at the same level of superior design. The EA81 was the pinnicle of EA series design - when they broke from pushrods with that engine design they broke the design in a fundamental way and unfortunately it never got fixed. They won again with the EJ series but it took years to design and computers to assist them. The original EA design - taken from the German Lloyd - was not improved in any significant way by the modifications done to it to create the EA82. The basic EA81 design has been shown viable to 200+ HP and reliable enough for aircraft at that output level. The EA82 has never acheived anything close and no one in their right mind would drop one in an aircraft. GD

It is VERY dangerous if you NEED to roll backward suddenly - I have been in situations where had I not rolled backward I would have tipped on my side or worse. If you need to hold yourself on an incline - that's what the e-brake is for. EA Subaru's are setup perfect because they have a front e-brake. You can then use Nissan 200SX rear calipers and get a rear e-brake as well. Twin stick e-brake FTW. GD

I would bolt up with the same adaptor as the EJ22. You would want to swap out to the EA82 5 speed D/R transmission. It will NOT fit between the transmission and the radiator. You will have to get very creative with the front end. Possibly remote mount the radiator or put it on top of the engine. You will definitely destroy transmissions with 230 HP. It's far too much power for a trail wheeler. Sand Rail yes (behind a VW tranny), crawler no. Parts are very expensive and rare for that engine - not worth the added expense of upkeep and maintenance - especially in a wheeler. Very bad choice, but it could be done. For a wheeler, the EJ22 is the best way to go. Plenty of power (add a small turbo at low boost if you need a bit more), very low cost operation, plentiful and cheap parts as well as whole replacement engines easily found under every rock. Most reliable engine Subaru has ever produced. GD

There should be 5 bolts. If you haven't removed 5 then you have missed one or more. GD

Personally, I wouldn't go backward to an EA series from a Legacy. You will be dissapointed. Best bang for your buck is a 93 or 94 Gen 1 Legacy with the EJ22 and a 5 speed AWD. Better reliability for your money you won't find. And you deffinately won't find it in an EA82. A low mileage, well maintained EA81 might give one a run, but not an EA82. If you are going to go old-school stick with the EA81's (1984 and older). The EA82's are 5 speed D/R donor's for the real old-school Subaru's. GD

They are totally stupid and dangerous off-road. Great if you are a 16 year-old girl learing to drive a clutch..... But for the rest of us - lame. GD

The "wet" compression test trick doesn't work on Flat-Four boxer engines. The cylinders and the valves are laying on their side so the oil seals up the valve seats as well as the rings. It's likely that you have a valve seat issue more than a ring issue. Subaru's don't wear their cylinders and rings even after several hundred thousand miles. The EA series engines tend to develop valve seat and valve stem seal issues along with head gasket issues, and the connecting rod bearings eventually let go. The cylinders and rings are rarely at fault. Although you claim the engine only has 60k since a rebuild - I suspect anything I didn't rebuild myself so that's never a good sign IMO. GD

One cylinder that's a bit low isn't going to cause severe running problems such as you indicate. My EA81 hatch has one low cylinder - about the same numbers you gave. Other than a tiny bit of rough idle it runs just fine. Plenty of power too - although I did swap a Weber carb on it. I could easily install the SPFI and it would run just as well. GD

You need to put the ECU in d-check mode and run through the full dagnostic sequence. Something is wrong but u-check isn't finding it. GD