GeneralDisorder

I undestand where you are comming from, and the only thing I can tell you is - when you own a few more and have had some time and mileage on them you will understand. The EA82 isn't bad as a *car*, but it is bad as a *Subaru*. What I mean is - compared to what came before it and after it, they are not at the same level of superior design. The EA81 was the pinnicle of EA series design - when they broke from pushrods with that engine design they broke the design in a fundamental way and unfortunately it never got fixed. They won again with the EJ series but it took years to design and computers to assist them. The original EA design - taken from the German Lloyd - was not improved in any significant way by the modifications done to it to create the EA82. The basic EA81 design has been shown viable to 200+ HP and reliable enough for aircraft at that output level. The EA82 has never acheived anything close and no one in their right mind would drop one in an aircraft. GD

It is VERY dangerous if you NEED to roll backward suddenly - I have been in situations where had I not rolled backward I would have tipped on my side or worse. If you need to hold yourself on an incline - that's what the e-brake is for. EA Subaru's are setup perfect because they have a front e-brake. You can then use Nissan 200SX rear calipers and get a rear e-brake as well. Twin stick e-brake FTW. GD

I would bolt up with the same adaptor as the EJ22. You would want to swap out to the EA82 5 speed D/R transmission. It will NOT fit between the transmission and the radiator. You will have to get very creative with the front end. Possibly remote mount the radiator or put it on top of the engine. You will definitely destroy transmissions with 230 HP. It's far too much power for a trail wheeler. Sand Rail yes (behind a VW tranny), crawler no. Parts are very expensive and rare for that engine - not worth the added expense of upkeep and maintenance - especially in a wheeler. Very bad choice, but it could be done. For a wheeler, the EJ22 is the best way to go. Plenty of power (add a small turbo at low boost if you need a bit more), very low cost operation, plentiful and cheap parts as well as whole replacement engines easily found under every rock. Most reliable engine Subaru has ever produced. GD

There should be 5 bolts. If you haven't removed 5 then you have missed one or more. GD

Personally, I wouldn't go backward to an EA series from a Legacy. You will be dissapointed. Best bang for your buck is a 93 or 94 Gen 1 Legacy with the EJ22 and a 5 speed AWD. Better reliability for your money you won't find. And you deffinately won't find it in an EA82. A low mileage, well maintained EA81 might give one a run, but not an EA82. If you are going to go old-school stick with the EA81's (1984 and older). The EA82's are 5 speed D/R donor's for the real old-school Subaru's. GD

They are totally stupid and dangerous off-road. Great if you are a 16 year-old girl learing to drive a clutch..... But for the rest of us - lame. GD

The "wet" compression test trick doesn't work on Flat-Four boxer engines. The cylinders and the valves are laying on their side so the oil seals up the valve seats as well as the rings. It's likely that you have a valve seat issue more than a ring issue. Subaru's don't wear their cylinders and rings even after several hundred thousand miles. The EA series engines tend to develop valve seat and valve stem seal issues along with head gasket issues, and the connecting rod bearings eventually let go. The cylinders and rings are rarely at fault. Although you claim the engine only has 60k since a rebuild - I suspect anything I didn't rebuild myself so that's never a good sign IMO. GD

One cylinder that's a bit low isn't going to cause severe running problems such as you indicate. My EA81 hatch has one low cylinder - about the same numbers you gave. Other than a tiny bit of rough idle it runs just fine. Plenty of power too - although I did swap a Weber carb on it. I could easily install the SPFI and it would run just as well. GD

You need to put the ECU in d-check mode and run through the full dagnostic sequence. Something is wrong but u-check isn't finding it. GD

Check the pressure with a good mechanical gauge. GD

There is no air on the moon so you would have to carry a ton of compressed air under extreem pressure (a bomb).... not viable because of that. Besides that, the whole rover weighed like 425 lbs. An EA82 with a propane bottle would weight half that. Internal combustion engines are limited to earth I'm afraid. A better power source for a new rover would be an RTG I would think. Expensive though. Experts say the orignal rover's (still on the moon) could smply be charged and driven even today. An artifact of the moon having no atmosphere to corrode anything. GD

Volts & amps? Temperature of the pump? Fuel pressures? Return lnes clear? We are going to need more info. I sugest you get some used fuel pumps or start using the Ford F150 pumps that are much cheaper. The pump's are simple rotory vane pumps - they are cooled by fuel flowing through them. If there is not enough fuel flow through the pump they will overheat and fail. GD

The Lunar rover? That was electric..... GD

Yeah - that's the original Hitachi. There's several distinct features that give it away. Although it's been hacked up and modified a bit. The arm on the front for the accelerator pump and the seperate throttle base pretty much nail it and the fact that it's bolted to the original EA82 manifold means it's a DCZ as those are the only carbs that natively fit the EA82 manifold. Older Subaru carb use a different flange pattern. I would sugest you invest in a Weber, and you need to reroute the PCV as it looks to have been done incorrectly. If you want to rebuild that carb buy a generic rebuild kit for an '85 4WD GL station wagon. That will get you the DCZ-328 carb kit that you need for that thing. GD

The question isn't "Did I pay too much?", the question is "Why would you want a Loyale at any price?".... they don't have the one redeeming quality of the EA82's - the D/R transmission. Any engine that has been "rebuilt" and has ticking lifters after only 50k is suspect. That throws red flags for me and I would have walked. But I would rather buy something with major problems that I know hasn't had 37 moron's crawling all over it durring it's lifetime. The only thing worse for a car than a previous owner is the previous owners "mechanic" GD

You would also at least have to dimount the spot welded skid plate mount and bolt it on instead to get the rack in anc out. I have never seen it done nor a write up on it. But i'll check into it if it's that easy. Aa for aquiring EA81 PS racks - they are fairly plentiful here still. Not in most places though. GD

You can't fit a power steering rack to a non-power steering cross-member without major reworking of the cross-member. It's not viable. Much better to find an EA81 power rack and cross-member. GD

Ok - I have a question about your kit. Does it rely on the factory bosses for the EA81T power steering being on the block? In other words would it work with the non-hydro lifter block's that don't have the bosses for the PS in the center? I'm pondering using the EA82 power steering pump with an EA81T power steering reservior in order to hook into an EA81T power steering rack & cross-member. The engine in question will end up being a blow-through turbo setup so I need to keep the power steering lines on the drivers side. GD

The EA81 pulley needed an even shorter spacer to clear enough of the threads to make it viable. There *might* be another 1/16" available beyond what I cut the spacer down but I cut it very close. The two-groove pulley from the EA82's is thinner where it mates to the shaft and allows the nut more purchase on the threads. Even at that the nut isn't flush with the end of the shaft so I fear the single groove EA81 pulleys (the two-peice one's anyway) are too thick to work on the Maxima alt. Using the twin groove pulley is only neccesary due to the shaft fitment. There might be single peice v-groove pulleys out there that would work - I didn't have any handy. But there is no reason that you can't use the twin-groove pulley in all the single belt applications. Just go yank one from a yard and stick it on. It's not going to hurt anything to run a single belt over a two-bely pulley. GD

The pulley I took off the maxima alt is a 4 rib. GD

'85 to '89 hatchbacks were EA81 *or* EA71 (STD model) '85 to '87 Brat's were EA81's. Both came in GL's and DL's, and the hatch also came in the STD model. The EA81 was introduced in 1981. Prior to '81 they used the EA71 (1600) and before that they used the EA63 (1400). GD

I commend your efforts. Sadly you won't see much better than 30 MPG in mileage and anything you do for performance is only going to use *more* fuel to get there. Your engine is an air pump - all it does is move air from the intake to the exhaust. It does this by mixing in a small amount of flammable vapor and then igniting the mixture to create a motive force on the pistons. To increase effeciency you have to move MORE air with LESS fuel. To increase power you have to get more motive force from each cylinder full of air - that means MORE fuel. Best mixture for economy is around 14.5:1 Best mixture for power is around 12:1 Those are general rules but as you can see your goals are very much at odds with one another. The more you increase the performance (and drive it like you stole it) the worse your effeciency will be. More advance is always better but you risk pinging if you go too far. Advance it till you get pinging then pull back a degree or two. If you have backfireing it's due to holes in the y-pipe or a malfunctioning air injection system. Leave the y-pipe stock for best scavenging effect and run a 2" open system all the way out. A resonator and a cherry bomb will do nicely for a decent rumble without being obscenely loud. It would do precisely nothing. The stock airbox is more than sufficient for the demands of the engine. Being that you are unwilling to remove the carb and replace it with a Weber or fuel injection..... sadly the answer is no. If I were you I would take pictures, label everything, and remove the entire manifold. Install a used manifold with a Weber and then swap back when you need to pass smog. Or just swap the whole engine out. It's not really that difficult. If you were to get a used engine you could pull it and change back to your "smog" engine in a matter of hours. GD

If you use an EA81T crank pulley and water pump then it works out much better - both have dual groove pulleys and they have the same size grooves - so it works just like the EA82 dual-belt system. This is only feasible if you run either no power steering or use the EA81T power steering pump and bracket - the non-hydro lifter EA81 blocks don't have the bosses to bolt on the turbo style power steering bracket though so if you have a solid lifter EA81 with power steering it won't work. GD

No that is the wrong system for your brat. you need spfi, the xt is mpfi. the manifold wont fit. GD

First, being you are new here you should know that the appropriate place for your model is actually the "New Generation" forum. Also, no diagnostic equipment is needed for your model. You simply connect the male/female diagnostic plugs under your dash together and the CEL will flash you the codes. From your description it's probably either a knock senor, evap purge solenoid or the O2 sensor going out. All of those are not uncommon and relatively inexpensive. GD