GeneralDisorder

You are correct on all accounts. The single prong CTS will work fine to run your gauge. GD

Head gaskets are blown, heads may be cracked. Engine is probably junk at this point unless it's completely torn down.... even then it might not be worth the time. Once they have been overheated a few times it becomes unlikely that just an "upper end" job will cure all their problems. Often the high mileage engines have worn out rod bearings and scored cylinder walls due to their advanced age and fixing them is really an excersize in futility unless you go whole-hog and tear them down for a complete overhaul. Read up on engine theory, get yourself a decent set of tools, an engine hoist and a stand - pull it out and tear it down. Best way to learn by far. It may be junk but at least you can learn something from it. Won't really be worth any less without the engine at this point. Hard to come by that kind of learning without sacrificing one or two vehicles in the beginning. GD

Yeah - you want the 90 amp unit. They used them from like 86 to the early 90's I think. '88 is a safe bet for getting the right one. You do have to change the pully to a v-belt pulley. Not that hard though. Very much like changing the pulley on the XT6 alt's but the fit is a direct bolt-in for your original. Other than changing the pulley it should basically bolt right up. GD

That's true but it doesn't make the plumbing any easier. First you have to understand what's going on between the turbo and the throttle body in order to make changes to that connection. The knowledge needs to happen first. GD

One of a couple things is happening - your radiator doesn't have enough flow, your head gaskets are leaking, the cooling system has air bubbles in it, or has leaks and can't get up to pressure. The AC was designed to run with on the hottest day with the engine only idleing. Something isn't right with the coolin system - fix it right or pay the eventual consequences of destroying that engine. GD

Replace your radiator and flush the system. It's not rejecting enough heat and it's being saturated by the AC evaporator core. GD

Completely different head design. The EA81's used siamesed intake and exhaust ports. They also used studs rather than bolts to hold them on. The entire problem with the EA82's is the head casting design, the head/block interface and the bolts. The bolts are one of the biggest problems for them holding head gaskets - that was done solely so replacing the head gaskets would be possible without pulling the engine. It is so wide with the timing belt arrangment that it would have been impossible to swap the head out without using bolts. It's the only Subaru engine that ever did that - all the EA81's and earlier used studs, and so do the EJ's. The timing belts are somewhat ancillery, but aren't a great point either. They just generally make a poor design suck that much harder. GD

Heh. I don't mind helping the good folks around here. Thus my group buy of yield in the OT forum recently. I try to help any locals when they need it around here. And I just find it really sad when a good member here has a pretty crappy ride just because that's what life dealt them. People are nearly throwing them away out here and I don't want them either.... may as well save one and send it east. I just have a short fuse for stupidity. GD

Actually the most direct swap replacement would be an alt for a mid-80's Nissan Maxima. They are essentially the same case as the stock Subaru alt but are 90 amps and internally regulated. If you want them to be a one-wire you just route the sensor wire back to the output lug with a short bit of wire and presto - one wire alt. GD

If you have access to the underside of the car the engine will stay hanging from the transmission cross-member and the firewall support while you pull the engine cross-member. It's not fun, but it's doable. Last one I pulled they charged me like $70 for it. GD

You can probably find one given some time and a few trips to the yards considering your location. That's where I've got all my Turbo PS systems. Takes about 2 hours to pull one though so be prepared. And the cross-member bolts are often a pain - 1/2" breaker bar time. GD

There's a runner/driver at my local yard right now for $550. 88 GL with D/R. Could probably walk away with it for $400 cash. They are VERY plentiful. Less than the cost of a nice flat-screen TV..... I like to have a fleet so I have backups and parts GD

I've beeen working on a fix for them. I may make new handles out of some steel sqaure tubeing. GD

I would sugest the junk yard but you won't find the gas struts that don't leak. Best bet is to buy a new pair. Try www.rockauto.com Be careful with the side-window latches. They break easily and are near impossible to find. Otherwise - that's a fine example of a hatch and very low mileage. The EA81's are routinely good for 300k with good maintenance. GD

Well - there's always next year. I understand. We have all been there. If you need any parts let me know - I'll do what I can. GD

I am only that guy about half the time anymore. Still drive my '83 hatch several days a week and it's definately a "beater with a heater". Rest of the time I'm in the sweeet '91 SS. I love my Turbo! GD

Not a huge loss, but EA81's with power steering are comparitively rare and so I hate to see a PS rack and cross-member (the whole thing is different for PS) go to the crusher. A reman rack is about $250 to $300 though they rarely fail. They can be resealed easily. I have three of them personally - one normal and two Turbo setups. That's all I'll ever need but since Brat's NEVER came with PS it's a nice upgrade for that crowd. The value of Brat's is increasing every year and those that can afford them can afford to buy a nice PS setup for them as well. I like to keep stuff like that for resale later. EA81's are getting scarce in the yards even here in the NW. GD

I agree with jerry - but put a roll-cage/truck rack/soft-top frame on it - the wagons are pretty flimsy without the roof so you need some reinforcement. Would be pretty neat as a convertible though. GD

Tell ya what - you bring it out here and I'll buy a wagon and help you get anything you need transfered over. I even have a room you can stay in. It will be a fun project, and you can go to the WCSS and meet a lot of people. Good times. GD

I would totally donate an EA82 body to you if you were closer. Come out for the WCSS and get a nice straight, clean body from the west coast. Seriously that's a ton of work sitting there. I know you love the thing, but..... it's in a sad state and they are so plentiful here. GD

Sounds like an input shaft bearing. The diffs in Subaru transaxles are tough - failures are simply unheard of in that department. I have heard of some input shaft bearing failures, but there's also stub shaft bearings and several other's inside the unit. Frankly it could be anything - you are probably correct about it being stressed due to the VC failures. I would say the tranny probably has seen better days all around. GD

*most* of the suspension bits you need are from an XT6. The legacy front struts will work and possibly some of the brake bits - maybe the axles. The knucles and the entire rear end will have to come from an XT6 to swap the GL over to 5 lug. If it's got a lift already - why aren't you going to chevy 6 lug? 5 lug doesn't have the proper wheel selection for wheeling. GD

Ok - let me get this straight- you installed head gaskets and you don't know where the thermostat is located? Anyone that can do the math for me? If you want a reliable daily driver - this isn't the car for you at your present skill level. GD

Doors, fenders, windsheild, corner markers..... oh yeah there's a LOT left to do. That thing has a power steering cross-member in it! YUUMM! Someone would love to have it for their wheeler...... GD

Apparently they don't have a sawzall. Last one I parted left in 16 peices. But I like to save suspension and drivetrain bits as well. I'm a collector. GD