GeneralDisorder

It has a cooling problem because it's an old turbocharged car. And none of those items are your issue. FIRST you need a new radiator, thermostat, and a complete cooling system flush just to see where you stand. Most likely you are going to be replacing both head gaskets - not a fun job on that engine. Unfortunately, if you don't know what that stuff is, or can't find out easily, I'm here to tell you that an EA82T is way over into the deep end of the pool for you. An intercooler isn't going to help cool the engine. And installing a front-mount is going to be a huge job. First you have to have room for it - that's going to take modifications to the bumper, grill, etc. Removing the AC evaporator is almost a sure bet. Then there's the plumbing - that's going to be interesting to say the least. There's a reason people put top-mount's on these engines. Less lag too. GD

If you are moving the diff, the whole mustache bar gets spaced down generally. There are other methods but it sounds like that's they type your's is. GD

EMPI is a VW aftermarket brand that has (in the last couple years) brached out into manufacturing aftermarket parts for other makes. One of their recent product line additions is CV shaft line for nearly every application around. You can order them through any EMPI dealer. Check out their web site - maybe they will have some suppliers in your area. I get mine from a local import parts house called "Discount Import Parts". They only have two locations in Portland Oregon though I'm afraid. I was impressed with the quality of manufacturing on them. I've had a set in my hatch for a couple years now. I replaced the engine mounts and tranny mounts at the same time as I would sugest you do. Bad mounts will destroy axles in short order. Check out www.rockauto.com for mounts. GD

The outer race is - the inner race is seperated by the spacer. The inner and outer races need to be aligned obviously - thus his question on the dimention. If the spacer were worn then the inner races would be crushed together and you would have a very high axial load on the bearings. GD

Ah - didn't know that! I haven't owned a Gen 2 or newer Legacy. I assumed they adopted the hydro's from the Gen 1 turbo in the Gen 2's.... guess not. And that's only correct then for the NA models. All the 91 to 94 Turbo sport sedan's were hydro clutch. GD

Something isn't right with your tranmission. If it were me I would probably just replace the thing on principle. There are TONS of 5 speed AWD's out there that have never had a single issue. I have 170,000 on my '91 Turbo (similar HP and greater torque than your 2000). It hasn't had any issues other than the 2nd gear syncro grinds a bit. I'm not even particular about the tires I run. Within 1/8" tread wear is all the closer I look at them. Something is fishy about the warantee issue and the subsequent multiple VC failures. I would say your dealer doesn't know what they are doing inside that tranny or something was incorrectly assembled when they fixed that shifter issue. My opinion - dump the tranny and get a used one that hasn't been messed with half a dozen times. GD

Last set I got from EMPI are excelent quality. Cheaper than MWE or Subaru. I think I payed $58 each or so. GD

You got the cam timing wrong or you need to re-time the distributor. Belts should be installed using the VALVE timing marks on the flywheel - you put the mark on the drivers side cam straight up, and the mark on the passenger side cam straight down. Install both belts. Then you have to time the distributor. Rotote the engine so the #1 (passenger side closest to the radiator) piston is at TDC on the comp. stroke (you feel air pushing past the plug hole). Line up the INGNITION timing mark on the flywheel with 0. Install the distributor so the rotor is pointing to the plug tower you wish to be #1. Install the cap and install the wires counter-clockwise starting from the one you chose to be #1 in the order 1,3,2,4. Gentleman.... start your engines. GD

EA81's are different. ALL 4WD's got the Hitachi, ALL 2WD's got the ND. Even the FSM differentiates between "4WD" and "2WD" distributors - they don't mention the brand, but that is of course obvious from the tear-down procedures and pictures. I also know this from raw experience - hundreds of trips to the junk yards - there aren't many absolutes but one of them is that every single Brat made for the US market came stock with a Hitachi distributor. That is true, but I would caution that ONLY a resistance test of the windings with a DMM will tell you for sure if the coil is compatible. Hitachi made coils for the SPFI, MPFI, and Turbo cars - all with different resistance values. Brand means little here - each manufacturer made a whole range of coils. For the carb distributors you can do that, yes. All the forms of fuel injection were different though. GD

That would be an '85 GL then. Nothing weird about it at all. Pictured in the original post is an '85 DL. Only difference is the headlights - grills are the same for a given model year / body style - except for certain years of the RX's where they had body colored grills as part of the overall "sport" ground effect package. GD

Someday you'll learn to spot them down to the model year and trim level from a tiny picture or even just a small peice of one. Of trim levels there are many - we call them "GL's" to differentiate them from the Loyale's and the Legacy's, etc. They came in many actual trim levels - GL, DL, STD, GL-5, GL-10, DL-5, GLF, GFT, etc, etc. Trim levels from 1970 to 1989 differ a great deal but everything from the early 70's to 89 is refered to as a "GL" or a "1600/1800" (or 1400 for the real old stuff). You just have to know when certain body styles came and went and which body type that applies to in what year. Encyclopedic knowledge like that doesn't come overnight though I'm afraid. GD

Easily done. Just carry an extra sensor for each of the major units, an extra ECU, and a DMM. (and your brain). Takes about the same amount of space and you will probably never use any of it. GD

At this point I wouldn't suspect a CV either. If anything it would be a DOJ that would cause that much issue. BUT - the axle itself generally doesn't cause any "pulling" of the steering like you describe. In extreme cases it might be possible but I've only exprienced one that did that and it was pretty obviously the DOJ that had failed. When they go in that manner they have a "lumpy" feel - feels like you are driving over softballs under one tire..... Replace your tie-rod ends and ball joints. Check the INNER tie rod joints as well. And check the steering u-joint for binding and have a look at the rag joint - that can cause strange steering issues as well. The VW beetle urethane rag joint replacements are a direct bolt in for the stock rubber one's. Then road test it and see what you find. GD

Yes - should bolt right up. Minimal changes required. Only thing I'm not sure about is if the FWD tranmissions came with cable clutch's or hydraulic. I would think the 95/96 models would have been hydro. 90 to 94 would be cable. But they might have continued on with the cable in 95 and 96. I would ask over on legacycentral.org - someone there will likely know. GD

It requires some special tools to assemble them. They are a real pain the butt. You have to apply pressure while turning them - a modified C clamp sort of affair. The parking brake mechanism makes them difficult to assemble due to the spring pressure. I would look for a good used one that only needs a boot. GD

That's not an '83. '85 or newer by the looks of it. Probably '85 given the grill style. Carbed EA82 2WD 5 speed?..... Maybe worth it for the low mileage engine. Probably $100. No other redeeming qualities. GD

They aren't popular enough for parts like that. You can of course get replacement stock exhaust and intake parts at the dealer. Anything else would need to be custom. No demand for non-turbo EJ22 aftermarket support. You won't gain much from either one anyway. If you want power swap it out to an EJ20 Turbo (WRX) or similar newer engine. GD

There's an o-ring on the distributor shaft. They don't usually leak though. GD

Test the coil and make sure there's power to it while cranking. It would be a Hitachi distributor - all Brat's are 4WD and that's the determining factor. GD

Replace the ball joints as well. GD

Not at all. Every Legacy I've owned so far has had warped rotor's to some extent - even my 91 SS which uses the 274mm rotors of the later 2.5GT's were severely warped. People use their brakes instead of dropping down a gear around here. Used to have some Ford Aerostar's - they would always warp after a time. It's a known problem. I've never had a warped set on an EA vehicle though. GD

The ND units don't tollerate much shaft play at all. I would send it to philbin manufacturing and have new bushings installed and the vac advance can rebuilt with a new rubber diaphram. Replace your existing distributor with it and use your old one as the spare. The cost to have it rebuilt is under $100. GD