GeneralDisorder

That depends on if you want to use the discount as a reward, or as an incentive. As a reward all it does is keep customers - as an incentive it brings in new ones. The proper way to do it is to give half each way. Half as an incentive to begin sourcing parts through them, and the other half incrementally as they buy more and more. This gives the best of both worlds. GD

That hose doesn't go to anything. It's supposed to hang straight down without connection. You'll notice there is no mark from a clamp on it.... EGR light is mileage controlled via a trip inside the guage cluster. Every 60,000 miles you have to swap a set of connectors under the dash to "reset" it. They are blue or green, or blueish green.... or something. Just look and you'll figure it out. And take the tape off the line - it's the PCV breather air inlet I beleive. There's a little white square filter element in the air-box up there near that "bump" that it's connected to. GD

A few degrees won't matter much overall. 160 would definately cause a noticeable decrease in fuel economy. 180 is a tough call. If your setup was well tuned you might notice it.... but I tend to doubt it. At any rate you NEED to know why things aren't staying cool (according to the stock gauge) with the OEM stat. IE: you first have to verify the gauge accuracy. GD

FYI, there wasn't a bolt in the shift linkage where you showed "it should fit". That connection is made (factory) with a roll-pin inside another roll-pin, with a special cotter pin that has a built in washer. Check out my new fix for that: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86901 GD

They aren't "well recessed", and they have nothing to do with the heads - they are between the head and the cam tower. So nothing that was machined on the heads could affect them. I don't have an EA82 apart to take pictures of at the moment. I'm sure someone around here does, or already has a picture though. The *slight* recess for them is in the bottom corner of the cam tower. If there isn't an o-ring you're oil pressure is relying on the forbearance of reptiles. GD

Just hook it up and see. You'll know if it leaks - it will be on the carpet most likely. There wouldn't be much point to bypassing it unless it was leaking. Even clogged it wouldn't hurt anything as far as the cooling system is concerned. More work than you would want to do to replace it I'm sure.... but you could get creative with a transmission oil-cooler, some longer hoses, and a bit of ingenuity with some 12v fans...... or light the passenger seat on fire. They make some inexpensive 12v heaters these days that might help a bit. GD

No EA82 I've ever owned has suffered a major mechanical failure. I've had no less than 6 timing belts break at various inoportune times though never one that I've personally replaced. My last one had 230k on it when I gave it away. No ticking, excelent power, and no failures. It's all about how you treat them I think. Within a short time of me aquireing them, I always do specific things in relation to the metrics I have on the engine in question. I've lost exactly one EA81 to rod failure. I learned my lesson quick. Oil pressure is ALWAYS monitored, and checked against a known reliable (high quality) mechanical guage. I generally replace oil pumps that won't give me at least 20 psi hot-idle. GD

Noah is correct. Just to clarify for you though - there are NO fans in a stock EA82 that are controlled in ANY WAY by the AC system. If you are hearing a fan running after shut-off it means the normal radiator fan was running via the thermo-switch that always controls it. That is perfectly normal. GD

Rod knocks on Subaru's are barely audible. Can't generally hear them at idle at all. They show under load as a metallic clicking in time with engine RPM. You'll know when they get really bad because the rod will come out to say "Hi". If it's already loud enough to bother you - it's probably not a rod knock at all. It's probably a main bearing knock. Those can last for years. GD

You DID NOT replace them?!? What kind of job is that? :-\ You can't help but remove them in a thorough cleaning.... If that's the kind of work you did, then these are probably the least of your worries. I'm sure other shoddy/incomplete work will get you before these do. But you never know. The cam tower's should always be completely cleaned including the slot for RTV, and the o-ring replaced - they are usually hard and if they aren't reinforced they aren't even round anymore. Usually not sealing much. It's the little stuff that will get you - attention to detail is critical for work like this. It's THE reason people complain about lifter tick - and probably why I've never had a problem with it. GD

The stock AC radiator fan on an EA82 is mechanically driven off the water pump through a viscous clutch. It is not electric. If you have an electric fan, then it was added later. And if that's the case then you are pretty much on your own - you'll have to trace down the wireing and figure it out. GD

Most of the applicable diagrams are in the downloads section of my converson site. I haven't looked real close because I don't have time right now, but I didn't follow your diagrams right off - what exactly is the problem you are having? There isn't much to the power wiring.... is your problem with locating the proper wires in the coversion harness, or in where you should connect them to the car? By the sounds of it, you didn't completely strip out the SPFI harness from the donor wiring. You should - it's much more difficult to follow if you still have it wrapped up in the factory tape and conduit. GD

EA82's with AC had a clutch fan ran off the water pump. If you have an electric fan then it's not stock. If you have an EA81 (hatch or Brat), then the AC fan relay could be stuck, or.... did you have the defrost turned on? AC comes on with defrost. GD

They aren't crush washers. And sometime in '87 (as near as we can tell) Subaru switched from a regular o-ring, to a metal reinforced o-ring as the plain rubber one's deform and partially block oil flow. See for yourself: http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?N=1719+11738+4294966979+8235 GD

Just brought home two BRAND NEW EMPI axles for my EA81. $59 each, no core. I'll be posting about them soon with pictures. Like the GCK's they are 4WD spec, and ISO certified (and unfortunately made in China). Seems like the GCK's just aren't availible anymore. EMPI is known for quality parts in the VW world, and a couple years ago branched into the CV shaft world, and has a whole line of them. See here for information. You can lookup all their parts in the online catalog and any EMPI dealer can order these. Should be as much or less than the GCK's and hopefully the same quality or better. http://www.empius.com/2008_driveaxles/drive_axles.html Here's the catalog pages for Subaru: http://www.empius.com/2008_driveaxles/driveaxles_pg22.html http://www.empius.com/2008_driveaxles/driveaxles_pg23.html GD

Oil pressure? Did you prime the system before starting it after the HG replacement (crank without plugs till pressure comes up)? If the lifters are complaining, then you have oil supply issues. Did you replace the o-ring's for the oil passages from the head to the cam tower? Did you use the metal-reinforced o-ring from the dealer? GD

If there's not much to grab now, drill some holes in the bits that remain and screw in some self tappers. Use them to turn/pull it out. Pipe wrench to get it turning again? Slide hammer? Without pics, It's hard to give good advice on your situation now. I understand it's broken, but without seeing the actual damage, I can't come up with much of a plan. GD

I see what you mean - 2WD EA71 Hatchbacks were 4 speed's (STD) - that's why I didn't understand your last question there. A 2WD Hatch with a 5 speed would be an EA81 (GL or DL). But yes - that combination works. That's how you put a side-starter tranny into a gen 1 with the older top-mount EA71. But you have to find the late model EA71 bell-housing to do it. GD

You'll wedge stuff forever and break things all day if you just try to pull or pry it straight out. Pound it back in, and carefully pull it out while TWISTING. You would be surprised what a little twist will do with closely fitting components. I work on a lot of German made pumps at work, and the tollerances are often less than .001", and you can't break stuff because the parts are both expensive, and often weeks or months out from Germany or Switzerland. You MUST learn to be gentle with stuff - especially aluminium parts. If it doesn't slide right out, stand back and asses the situation. Larger hammers are not the solution. As I learned from my older and wiser co-worker - "DO NOT hammer on German vacuum pumps - put the hammer down and walk slowely backwards". I kid you not - you'll feel incredibly silly when you twist it right out of there. Same goes for EA pushrod oil pumps. You wouldn't beleive how many posts there have been in the past about breaking the oil pump trying to remove it. If you grab and twist they come right off. I've NEVER broken one, or had a distributor stuck in the block. GD

In brass you can get those all day with compression fittings for tubing. Common and inexpensive. You could use copper or steel tubing but you need the right ferules for steel. With a bit of searching, you could get stainless I'm sure. But yes, you essencially want a bulkhead fitting. Although it would be better to just weld in a bung and use a compression fitting with a slide in tube - that would allow the inner tube to be adjusted for depth (I'm assuming you want a pickup tube). Cut the end of the tube at a 45 degree angle to keep it off the bottom of the tank. I'll ask at work after the exact nomenclature of the slide-fitting that I'm thinking of. We use a lot of stuff like that, but I'm not sure of the exact name if you wanted to buy one. GD

Got me. Someone with a finely tuned seat-of-the-pants dyno I suppose. I've ben trying to dispell that myth for years. GD

Sadly that's not worth fixing. Glad your father was relatively unharmed. GD

There is no way to make it work. There is no bell-housing that will adapt an EA81 to a top-mount starter transmission. The EA81 was introduced as a side-mount in 1980, and all transmissions were changed to use that style. The early 80's (80, 81) EA71's were kept top-mount to use the remaining stock of those style transmissions I would assume. 2WD makes no difference - they were side-starter too when the EA81 was introduced. GD

Have you checked the valve timeing and ignition timing? Compression? I had the same problem with my 86 - the stock carb was just gutless. Replaced it with a Weber and all was happy. GD

The curve for all distributors is the same. This is the '84 FSM, but the '83 I have is the same (even simpler, it's got a single curve set). (the bottom one is the EA81T curve). GD