GeneralDisorder

Also - just to check the wireing for certain - does it read full pressure when the engine is not running but the ignition is on? If so you still have a grounding issue or the sender itself has malfunctioned internally. If not definately follow Jerry's advice and remove the pump. DO NOT drive the car till it's fixed or you risk internal engine damage. GD

It is not generally the battery terminal itself, or the cable *end*. It is the cable itself where it connects to the end - especially if the end has been replaced at some point with the silly lead one's. I hate those things. Always use the appropriate steel clamp cable ends whenever possible. GD

If it were a fusible link, or the connection the link box, he would not get a click of the solenoid. He would get nothing at all. Being that the solenoid clicks, his problem is one of two things: 1. Bad connections at the ground wire or the positive starter cable. And Ohmeter is no good here as the connection may go through, but may not be transfering enough amps. 2. Bad contacts in the solenoid itself. But he claims to have replace the starter. So he needs to check #1 first. GD

Had that happen to me before... The crappy positive cable to the starter (they are alumnium) was nearly broken clean throught at the battery terminal. Sometimes it's difficult to see. You might consider replacing the terminals on general principle. I've had two EA81's do this. Just replaced both terminals on my hatch too. Use a hacksaw to cut the bad end off and replace the terminal with a new one. Dielectric grease is a good thing here, as well as those little felt pads that go under the terminals. GD

EA81 yes? That's the torsion bar tube. It's possible that one of the torsion bars is broken or stripped. So yes - definately pull that sucker out and check it. Oh - and grease doesn't go there. Also it's "Zerk" not "Zert" - applogies if that was simply a typo. GD

Something funny about the way the wireing for the ignition switch is setup I suspect. Just installing an EA82 alone would not do it - I've got an EA82 with SPFI in my Brat and it acts just like stock. I would be looking under the column to see what's going on with the ignition switch. It sounds like power was routed to some circuits and is bypassing the switch. GD

Short in the sender line to ground. The sender is under the oil pump near the filter. Trace the line and see what it's touching/where the insulation is missing. GD

Not if it isn't running. Bad Alt would illuminate the idiot lights or flicker them due to AC current from the regulator. They are not supposed to be on with the igntion off nor would a bad alt cause that. GD

If you have access to a torch you can heat the bracket, soak it in penetrant (while it's hot), and use an impact on them. Should come right out - do it all the time at work with stuff that's increddibly frozen. You have to be able to put a LOT of heat on the bracket VERY fast. And then you have a limted time before the bolt equalizes in temp. You want the bracket to expand, but not the bolt. You can heat, and then carefully ice the bolt head as well. Then impact the sucker out of there. GD

Seriously hinky, DIY wireing from a PO I would guess. Start pulling panels and looking for crimp connectors and wire nuts.... *shudder* Why not fix the turbo? EA81T's are pretty neat in their own way. GD

Yeah - I like the bug-eye body's. Looks pretty. GD

You would trust a walmart employee to cut a key? You are a lot more brave than I sir. Go to a locksmith - pay the $5. Keep a decent locksmith in business. No superstore has any business cutting keys with minimum wage employees. That's just asking for trouble. GD

There will be a manual shifter release button - probably under a snap off cap around the shifter area. The key code is printed on the passenger door lock mechanism. Have one cut by the code, and take the ignition lock apart and remove the bit of old key. Should be able to fish it out if you have a few hours. GD

Spray things down with carb cleaner - when the engine changes pitch or stumbles you have found a leak. GD

double-nut the studs and remove them from the pulley. GD

Frankly those repairs are typical of all vehicles. It's 8 years old and for a turbo that sounds like an excelent repair history. No major mechanical failures, and no problems with the turbo or it's associated multitude or components. I would be very happy if I were you. If you don't like making little repairs such as those, then you should get a new vehicle with a warrantee. Seriously - you'll be dissapointed if you think an 8 year old Subaru is going to be any better. People own Subaru's because of their capabilities, relatively simple design, and reliability. But there are always going to be minor things with any vehicle. If you are looking for a completely 100% reliable vehicle you aren't likely to find it anywhere. There are, of course, going to be folks that chime in here and say they haven't had a single problem, but it's anecdotal. At the end of the day it's a machine - they all break - just be happy if the repairs are minor. GD

DUDE. This thread is two YEARS old. Not relevant anymore. GD

Well - if it goes to inspection and they are inspecting it as if the engine was an SPFI then they won't be looking for it at all as the SPFI never had it. Blocking the ports... The thread is large, and metric. Good luck finding a bolt. What I do is cut the end off the pipe - threaded portion and the flared pipe end itself. Then I weld the threaded plug solid on the backside using an approrpraitely sized washer as filler. Grind it smooth and then screw it in with the flared pipe end to seal it. Paint it to avoid rust to the welds. Looks just like a bolt but has the flare to seal it properly. GD

Nothing. You would have to fab your own. Stainless steel or aluminium is nice for interior. Exterior would have to be fiberglass most likely. But it's up to you to make the stuff if you want it. Some of these things WERE availible either to the Japanese market or even here, but they have long since been discontinued, and are extremely rare and expensive should you locate one (ebay, etc). Neon is universal mostly. Buy a kit and figure it out. There's nothing really for the headlights. You could smoke the tailights with some transparent smoke spray. But no - there's nothing you can just "buy" for any of the lighting. If you want to take apart the gauge cluster you might be able to swap the bulbs inside it for some LED's or even just a different colored bulb. Cruise kits are fairly universal, or you could just get the whole cruise assembly from an older GL or GL-10 and bolt it on. Junk yard or around the wanted forum for parts like that. Steering wheels are an excelent example of what I'm talking about. Momo did once make an adaptor for these cars but it's out of production. Sometimes they come up on ebay. They command a price usually - $50 to $100 for JUST the adaptors for the EA's. The engine is a single point injected, 8 valve 1.8 with poorly designed heads. There's lots you *could* do to it from a custom standpoint, but there's a big wall of performance right around 120 HP that takes HUGE money to get over. If you don't want to be looking for another engine soon, I sugest you leave it be. The EA82 is not suited to high performance modifications. Many have tried, nearly all have failed. The ones that succede rarely get to the performance levels of even a stock EJ22 turbo, and spend enormouse amounts of money getting there. It's just not worth it. GD

Close to the floor AND slippage eh? Being that it engages right at the floor it has run out of adjustment - I would say the disc is probably worn away. The tighter you make the cable, the higher they will engage. But if the cable *was* ultra loose resulting in a very low engagement then there would be as much grip on the pressure plate as possible when the cable goes slack.... thus the pressure plate or the disc are not performing adequately I would say. Buy no worries - Subaru clutches are very easy to do. You don't even have to pull the engine. Just remove the radiator and pull it forward enough to slip the new set in. GD

Yep. At least you used the jacking bolts - most people don't have the sense to know what those holes are for GD

There's nothing low maintenance about drums. They require adjustment, or if they have auto-adjusters they will still eventually require replacement. Which takes 50x longer than replaceing pads in a rear disc. Disc's are lower maintenace by far. When you have to replace a set of drums that are completely frozen from brake dust holding water and causing severe corrosion you'll understand. GD

That info might have been useful to the OP.... several YEARS ago. GD

You try another one because they are a dime a dozen at the junk yard, and rarely fail (but it does happen). GD

90 to 94 Legacy. EJ22 (2.2 liter), AWD 5 speed. Wagon or sedan - doesn't matter. Excelent vehicles, and nearly bulletproof. Brat's are always a good investment as their prices have been on the rise for the past several years. But unless you want to maintain a vehicle that's likely been abused for nearly 30 years.... probably a poor choice. GD