GeneralDisorder

Be careful with it - you don't want to lose the white paint marks on the throttle plate stop bolt - and DO NOT touch that adjustment. It's set at the factory and there is NOT a procedure to reset it. Thus the white paint..... Also carefully remove and then reset the TPS using a MM. Verify it's smooth operation as well. There's things on there I wouldn't chem dip - this isn't a carburetor and shouldn't be treated as such. Remove the injector and the pressure regulator as well - neither should be subjected to solvents of that ferocity. Don't media blast the mating surfaces - you'll tear them up and they already have enough tendancy to not seal.... OEM only on the manifold gaskets BTW - unless you enjoy replacing them every couple months . The difference in OEM vs. aftermarket is staggering for those. Equal and proper torque is also very important - 12 ft/lbs only. And while you are at the dealer you'll need the TB o-ring/gasket kit. The o-ring under the TB is special and reusing them generally isn't possible. GD

How do you know it's good? GD

Temp should be 193. 160 is too low. Get an OEM thermostat, and verify temp with a known reliable gauge or laser reader. Sounds like your radiator fan isn't working. Should come on at 195 or so. The thermoswitch in the radiator can fail or the connections can corrode. Check that first. GD

I don't remember any o-rings behind the flywheel.... At any rate replace the rear main - beyond that I wouldn't worry about this o-ring. Remember to use blue locktite on the flywheel bolts as they are open to the crankcase. GD

Very useful tool - use one almost daily at work.... Take readings everywhere. At the temp sender will be the one you want to check against the stock gauge. Before/after the thermostat. Radiator inlet, outlet, and all around the surface to check for cold spots. Water pump. Heater core hoses. Etc. When you get enough data for a hypothesis of the problem, then start making changes to the system. UV dye is cheap, and you can get UV bulbs for maglite's and such. I have a flexi inspection tool set that came with a UV LED bulb. For like $10 you can get both the dye (multiple applications worth) and a UV light to check for leaks. You just dump the dye in and then check for glowing with the light while the engine is running. It's nice to steam clean the engine first, but not always needed. GD

This is one of those "OEM only" gaskets. Other brands use some very inferior cork. Take the (new) cork gasket and coat it in a thin layer of RTV. LET IT DRY before using it.... instant rubber gasket. Never had one leak yet. GD

I agree - sounds like there's pressure problems and some of your coolant is vaporizing - thus the no heat situation. Coolant vapor doesn't transfer heat in the core. Perhaps some dye and a UV light. GD

Depending on it's ground state it tells the ECU if it should be looking for the EGR temp sensor or not. Won't notice it at all. EGR makes so little difference to these engines you might as well leave it since you have to have it working anyway. I doubt you'll notice anything unless you port the heads, change the cam, and increase your compression. Remember the SPFI intake already flows 90 HP worth on the same displacement. In fact I wouldn't touch it unless you have access to a flow bench - changes to the turbulence of the flow are often detrimental unless you can flow test it before and after to get it just right. That's the heater core return pipe yes? I wouldn't touch it as it's likely a press fit and is probably glued in with something like a locktite product.... at least that would be my assumption. I wouldn't powder coat it - a couple coats of hi-temp epoxy would do the job. It's also a pain to remove the TB as you will certainly have to replace the special o-ring and gasket under it - it's a heated TB so there's a coolant passage in there. GD

I wouldn't think you would have too much problem - the SPFI is far more effecient than the carb that was on it. The EGR temp sensor is just there to make sure the EGR is working - that's the only difference between CA and 49 states SPFI. That sensor doesn't actually effect emissions - just tells you if the EGR is working or not. One thing I would sugest - REPLACE the cat. A new one installed after the original will be FAR more effecient and you can get them off ebay for dirt cheap. Just weld it in place in the mid-pipe where the resonator is now. It will blow ultra-clean with a brand new cat that has the benefit of 20 years of development in converter technology. GD

Never tried to hookup to an EA81 with AC.... there's an idle up solenoid on the carb throttle. You may have to investigate some wireing diagrams on that one as I've never had to work out how that would be done. It's probably a ground signal wire so if you can find a ground signaled relay for the AC system that would be ideal. For the park switch just punch the pins out of the ECU connectors. There's little "sticks" that pull out and then the wire and it's pin pop out of the connector. White and black..... possibly the EGR temp sensor that is specific to CA?? The gold one - did it have like 12 pins or something? That sounds like the dealer diagnostic port. I usually leave it, but it's pretty much useless at this point as I don't think any dealers have the machines needed to read from them anymore. It's probably a very primitive OBD-I like system similar to the early EJ's. But largely useless unless someone wants to go write an interface tool for a laptop (someone actually has for the early EJ22's), but that's also unlikely. GD

Yes - but there's no provision for mounting it to the EA81 pedal assembly. I've never tried it, but you could probably more or less bolt in an EA82 pedal assembly - this would have the added benefit of gaining the superior EA82 style clutch cable. All the tranny switches are the same - backup lights, 4WD indicator, and neutral switch. They are just threaded into the tranny case. No need to get THAT one as many more are availible. Plus it simply won't work on the 4 speed in your hatch. Yes - it's the gold bolt looking thing. That's the CC switch - they are probably the same for EA81 and EA82. There should be a "stop bolt" in your existing pedal assembly that you remove and install the "switch stop bolt" instead. I don't have one at present, and I'm not sure when I'll get to the junk yard next. Probably a couple weeks out as I'm swamped with all manner of things right now. Not the least of which is a half-torn-apart Ford Contour in my driveway that is being a serious thorn in my side right now. $25 should be about the going rate - they aren't rare. My yards will probably charge closer to $30 or $35 but if I had one from a parts car I would part with it for $25. Ask in the wanted forum - someone's got one. GD

Even with the heater core completely clogged, it shouldn't cause any overheating. Have you verified that your temp gauge is reading correctly? I like those laser thermometers..... I had a clogged EA82 core due to some "headgasket repair in a bottle" that didn't work at all. After I replaced the head gaskets, the engine ran perfect and the temp was great - just no heat at all till I replaced the core. GD

Confirm reverse is weak on the 4's - I blew one with a Weber'd EA81. Part of the problem is the linkage wears and will not fully engage gears. Half engagement is BAD. I would swap to the five for no other reason than to get the VASTLY superior linkage. Love all my 5's - especially in the Brat. GD

I've had EA81's to 7000 or so. They do just fine as long as the valves are properly adjusted (hydro prefered). GD

Unlikely, and purely hypothetical. No one has reported that occuring. The tiny current of the relay won't produce the arcing or the high temperature's of the original circuit. If you do a pushbutton, you are replacing the failed component with another of similar design which could ostensibly fail in the same manner as the original. A relay in either case would be best. If the original switch ceased to function then a momentary pushbutton could be added to the relay circuit. Low current, smaller wires, less potential for arcing and fires. That's what relays were created for. It's not always the switch either - it's sometimes the switch connector that has melted, or in rare cases the circuit itself. I've run across both. The exact method of repair is going to depend on the specifics of the vehicle. But in all cases I prefer to keep the original switch if possible. It doesn't give me great confidence when I see wireing like this on cars I'm considering purchasing - wire nuts, electrical tape, and kludged in push buttons are signs that someone doesn't own a MM. I've personally drug people from buring cars due to electrical fires, and I deal with high-voltages and current on a daily basis. GD

A relay is more professional and works like stock by using the existing switch. Personally I would never consider hacking in a push button - looks bad and smacks of a lack of electrical understanding. GD

Yes, but just ask around on the board for a late 80's black ECU. I can get them all day long around here. And someone probably has on laying around. The way the Loyale "Clutch Switch" works would pretty much require you swap the pedal assembly from the EA82 as the switch works opposite of the CC switch I've used for the neutral switch. And if you are going to do that, then you can just use the CC switch for the neutral, and the clutch switch as normal. Also it will run fine without either of them - so worry about it later. Just don't hookup the ECS lamp when you go in for testing. I know there's another member in CA that did this swap - you might search for his thread about how he registered it. GD

The EA81T is only 95 HP. You might as well just use a regular NA EA81. The EA81T parts are quite rare as the engine was only made for two years. Turbo engine's aren't generally suited to lifted rigs as the RPM range is higher where they make decent power, and their low compression (7.7:1) sucks for low-end torque. EJ22 would be a better bet, and they can be found with less than 200k - you just have to look harder. The EJ22T in my sedan came from a 94 wagon and only had 110k on it. And I recently bought an NA 94 wagon that needed a water pump with 132k on it ($750). GD

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but 96+ would be ODB-II so aren't they just going to plug it in? As long as it passes the ODB-II test I don't see why there should be any problem. GD

While that is true, there are specifications that Subaru requires. Besides that, Subaru might be making them directly, or as one of the subsidiaries of Fuji Heavy - the PCV valves didn't change from the 70's all the way to 2002 so it's very possible that they made them. There is no plastic used in the PCV so it's not difficult to manufacture. It's definately the case that the OEM PCV's are superior to most, if not all aftermarket. And they cost $10 or less. It's also the case that the Subaru PCV's can easily be cleaned by soaking in carb cleaner overnight. All metal construction makes this easy. For this reason I've bought VERY few PCV's. This applies to thermostat's as well - the OEM part cost's about $2 - $4 more than the aftermarket, and the construction quality is pretty obviously better. A long time ago I posted pictures comparing the differences to illustrate this point.... Take note of the VASTLY superior gasket as well - it's a neoprene coated metal type gasket vs. the ultra-cheap cardboard unit. The OEM thermostat comes with this gasket while many aftermarket unit's have the gasket sold seperately. This further decreases the cost differential. GD

All GL manual's had the HH - even 2WD's. It may not be functional if the cable has been removed. GD

Why don't you cross that bridge when you get there. Beleive me - you will have plenty of time to read up on oils. GD

Well - they aren't electronic - just switches. And most of them are identical. I'm not sure why you are pulling these? You will be using the switches (or lack of) from the transmission you put in the vehicle. If you are using the 4 speed then the switches aren't going to work with it (most likely) anyway. That's the reason for the replacement of the switch with a pedal activated neutral switch. So you don't have to use any transmission mounted switches. The other switches are for the backup lights, and the 4WD indicator on the dash. On the EA81's the switch activates the Low range light, and on the EA82's it activates the 4WD light and the Low is on the linkage. At least that's how I remember it. GD

Doesn't understand EA82 valve timing. Probably timed it off the ignition marks instead of the valve marks, or one of the cams is 180 out. Could be wires too - that he shows compression would somewhat point to that.... but there's no way to tell for sure. GD

First, you should make your own post instead of posting in other's threads. That's poor forum etiquette It's not a single lamp - there's about 10 or 12 bulbs in the back of the cluster. You probably have a fuse or other electrical issue at play. You have turned up the dimmer right? It's the shifter interlock release. It's for taking it out of gear in case the normal shift button ceases to function. It's a backup to allow free shifting of the transmission in case you need to roll the car in neutral, etc. GD