GeneralDisorder

Ported is immediately above the primary throttle plate, so it gets vacuum when the throttle is open even slightly. Late ported is higher above the throttle plate, and doesn't see vacuum till the plate opens farther - thus EGR only begins openeing above 1500 to 2000 rpm or so. In practice there's about 1mm difference in the port location above the throttle plate to facilitate this effect. GD

Adding sway's to a lifted rig is going to severely limit the suspension from flexing off-road. I run NO sway on my lifted wagon, and while it does affect the freeway handling, the added offset of the Chevy rims and wide tires help it quite a bit. Plus I could really care less as it's only street use is to and from trails/mud/snow, etc. If you are only doing a mild lift, etc you could use it as a daily. But one would still wonder why? Why not have a more serious machine, and use a stock soob as your daily? The added reliability, driveability, and mileage is very nice, and owning two soobs of similar vintage is not that difficult as you only need one parts stash. Besides that, even the best built off-road GL suffers from the same 20 year old car syndrome that every other GL still on the road suffers from. I've said it before: If you are going to drive old cars, own at least two (prefereably three), and have a premuim AAA membership. That goes for ALL old cars, not just soobs. If all you care about is impressing people that are impressed by such things as a lifted Subaru, then I'm probably the wrong guy to talk to. Basically anyone that I would consider worth impressing wouldn't care what I drive. And personally I'm rarely impressed by other people's vehicles either. It simply is not a defining characteristic of importance. It is always, however, interesting to note the personality (or general lack of) of those who drive vehicles that are designed or built specifically to impress others. GD

I don't know what the exact procedure is for registering with *newer* equipment, but I know it's possible. The Impreza crowd do it all the time. Check into it, then just dump the carb setup and install SPFI on the engine instead. Should pass no trouble at all then. GD

It's straight Subaru. There's no Suzuki in the *real* Justy. Later on they may have used the name, but it's not even close in design. The suzuki 1.0 Liter engine was a SOHC, 6 valve. The Justy uses a 1.2 (or 1.0 JDM) SOHC, 9 valve arrangment. It's a bit more powerful as well due to it's higher performance valve setup. GD

1. Ported 2. Ported, late 3. Manifold As for the other ports, the center one is the bowl vent, and you want to vent that to either a charcoal recepticle, or atmosphere. The other ones are breather tubes of some sort. I'm not sure exactly what purpose they serve. GD

Just like any other vehicle it depends on how you build it. More off-road capability = less on-road driveability. Fact of life. Everyone starts out with your idea, but very shortly abandons it. The mileage sucks, the power sucks, and you have to worry about breaking it when you take it out to the trail. You will quickly adopt the same policy - I guarantee it. GD

On the other hand, I learned mostly about construction and wood-working from my father. He was a C-130 mechanic in the Chair Force, but my parents have been lucky about cars, and when they did have problems they were taken to shops. Never even changed their own oil. Basically my dad *could* work on them but doesn't care to. His medium is wood, has been for many years now, and he has no desire to pick up a wrench at this point. My grandfather was the one that always changed his own oil, etc. But never much more than that - due to being older by the time I came along, and haveing a decent car that was rarely driven we never once did anything car related. I learned about fixing small appliances, welding, soldering, and various power tools and metal-working from him though. And we occasionally worked on the ignition or carburator for the tiller or lawnmower, etc. And I was always fasinated by his stories of youth when he and his brother built a tractor for the farm from a model A truck, and his years as a welding forman for the ship-yards, etc. Really though what I got that was valuable from both of them was the *idea* that I could actually do things (myself). There was never a time when I saw either of them admit defeat in the face of a challenging project. I watched my father and grandfather construct various projects, remodel houses, repair frozen pipes, install water heaters, unclog drains, plant large gardens , etc, etc. Stuff that most people would never even attempt. What I got was a fearless attitude toward anything tool related. I was encouraged to take things apart to see how they worked as the slogan around my house was "Well - it's already broken so I probably can't make it much worse". As a young lad I spent months in the summers buying lawn mowers and other equipment from the city dump (I actually aquired a salvage license though the county), rebuilding their engines, repainting, and eventually selling them at garage and estate sales (mother is an antique dealer). At $20 each scrap metal value from the dump, I could make a decent profit selling them for $100 after making (usually minor) engine repairs and investing a few $$ in spray paint. Pretty much taught myself everything I know about internal combustion engines by reading everything I could get my hands on. I've read many technical manuals cover to cover for FUN. So really, I credit my family with giving me the mental *tools* to learn the stuff on my own. There's no question I know vastly more than anyone else in my family about cars in general (my father enlists MY assistance for anything vehicular). But they gave me the attitude, the enjoyment of reading and learning, and the confidence to tackle any job. GD

The Swift is the Suzuki branded version of the Chevy Sprint, which was originally named the Chevy Sprint Metro. When the swift went through a body change in 89?, the Chevy version wasn't updated till 91?, and at that time the name was changed to the Chevy Metro, or Geo Metro depending on how it was badged. So asking that is a bit like asing if an EA81 shares some parts with an EA82.... they are essentially the same car that underwent a body change. And depending on year, many parts will probably interchange. GD

If it's a power rack and it's loose like that, you should be seeing a lot of fluid leakage. There's nothing in the rack that you are going to be able to rebuild or replace easily, so if it really is loose at the point you describe then it's time for another rack. I tore down the one on my wagon with 160,000 on it, and there was no looseness in the rack itself. And the dealership I frequent has mentioned they almost never see racks or pumps fail. I would be looking for what might have caused this, as it's certainly not typical till well after the rest of the car generally falls apart around 300,000+. GD

Rather than guessing at your target tire pressure - read this: http://www.4x4now.com/sfjun96.htm GD

Yeah - I think I may have mentioned it for proper routing which is the same for both. Mostly I wrote that because prior to that there was major knowledge lackage between the early/late variants of the EA81 cable. People talking all kinds of sillyness trying to communicate about doing the job without even realizing there were different types. GD

Yeah - I remember quite a bit about things I actually enjoy. Ask me anything about the last chick flick I had to sit through..... actually just turn to the wall nearest you and ask IT what I remember - not to worry - answer forth with correctitude it will. GD

That one developed a softball sized "lump" that later turned out to be a broken steel belt. I set it along side the garage and about a week later the belt had ruptured out of the tread. Nasty. That picture is a couple years old.... GD

Quite possibly you are refering to my write up on the subject - but it deals with EA81's only. The EA82 is far, far easier. I've done a few, but I couldn't tell you just ATM how it's done as I've never documented it. But they have never given me any more than 10 minutes trouble - not like the 84+ EA81 pedal side..... that's hell on earth for damn sure . Possibly only beaten by heater core replacements for "badness". GD

185 will fit in the EA81 spare location fully inflated. I've had many of them in my Brat. You just have to WANT it. And by "WANT" I mean "shove.... hardish". Example (ignore my hairy, sasquatch arm ): GD

Different brands probably - Nippon-Denso vs. Hitachi. But yes, they do the same job. GD

Yes they are interchangable. The bit you are refering to as a "vent" is not. It's a retard port for the feedback carb equipped EA82's. Leave it open (not capped) and just use the inner port as that one is the advance. GD

85 2WD GL's were MPFI non-turbo. In 86 the SPFI was introduced on the 2WD models. XT's (4's and 6's) were always MPFI. Also all Turbo's are MPFI of course. GD

All Loyales were SPFI. Only the 90 model year had Turbo as an option. But they are rare. RS coupe and some wagon's... I haven't seen a 90 turbo sedan but they probably made a few. Proper SPFI fuel pressure is 21 psi. Stock pump probably is rated at 45, but all the ones I've tested dead head put out an even 50. The Ford F-150 pump is your best bet. GD

When will people get it that the Justy has NO RELATION to the swift or sprint? The Justy is entirely, 100% fuji. It shares no parts with any other 3 cylinder vehicles, and there was NEVER a turbo Justy. They aren't even the same size engines. The sprint used a 1.0 liter, and was availible in Turbo. The swift used a 1.3 liter 4 cylinder and was NOT availble as a turbo. The Justy engine is 1.2 liters. The sprint and swift are the same suzuki design, and while they look similar to the Justy, they are completely different. Clutch's are easy to have made up. The Bonneville Justy was 120 HP at 9,200 rpm - again no turbo was used here either, but the engine was destroked to 1.0 Liter (997 cc) to fit in the class. GD

Illogical. There's procedures to verify the pump is within spec in the FSM. I don't know a single shop that replaces or reccomends replaceing EA82 oil pumps because it makes them feel good...... That's what feeler gauges are for..... GD

1. Anti-Afterburn Valve (AAV)..... chuck it. You can search under my name and the name of the part. I've described it's operation in detail before. But trust me - you don't need it. ... AAV EGR port - direct port to the manifold..... see #1. If you chuck #1, replace the EGR with one from an SPFI manifold. 2. Return line to the tank. Allows the pump to not run "dead head" against a closed float needle. 3. It's either the fuel return or the tank vent line. I believe it's the vent though. If it T's into the same line that comes off the top of the vapor seperator, then it's the vent. I always get them mixed up. 4. Top - float bowl vent solenoid: someone capped off it's vent port though - that's a no-no. Bottom - idle circuit cut solenoid. 5. Hill Holder valve (HH). GD

My wheel never yanks - power steering you see.... I have hit things VERY hard. When you hit stuff hard enough to bend the strut like a banana..... I scared my passenger. Also there's no way in hell my 1/4" wall blocks would "crumple". Likely they would go through the body like a bullet before that happened. I've seen 3/16" wall blocks get pretty wonky looking however. But by your own admission a bolt "dissapeared". Exactly as I claim - if you keep the bolts tight this never happens. It's just one of those things you have to do after every run - tighten the lift bolts. Plus it's much less likely when using the stock short bolts to anchor the blocks to the rails. GD

Might be harder than you think. And yes it's been done. On stock internals the Justy has shown to be good to over 11,000 rpm. It required modification of the valve springs and retainers plus a custom cam, and other goodies to get there. But the Subaru engineers were confident enough to take it to Bonneville, and it still ran as recently as 2002. GD

My local source that used to be about $60 has bumped the price up to $90 or $95 last time I checked. So that's about the going rate it seems. There's only one manufacturer (the OEM), so you are kind of stuck as far as price goes. If it's really worn, you might consider resealing another used one. They usually last quite a long time unlike the EA81 pumps. The original on my 86 sedan still puts out over 25 psi at hot idle (800 rpm) even at 231,000. I did reseal it when I did the head gaskets and cam tower o-rings. And I have an aftermarket mechanical guage in the car, so my readings are accurate. It will do well over 100 psi when reved cold. GD