GeneralDisorder

Only in conjunction with EJ transmission installations. It's an extremely involved process requireing the swapping of the complete legacy pedal set, hydraulic reservior, lines, etc. Plus the stock transmission isn't setup for hydrualic so you would need a custom clutch fork..... etc. WAY more work than it's worth unless you are also doing a full EJ22 and AWD 5 speed swap at the same time. Get a new cable from the DEALER. Aftermarket are not acceptable. GD

Notching the cross-member? Yes. GD

Most of the experienced lift builders, such as the PK lift, etc use blocks that are 1" shorter on the leading rod plates. Simply because you can without hurting anything, and keeping those plates as far up as possible is benneficial. GD

Being you have a Gen 2 - 5 speed D/R is the way to go. Contact Jerry (bratsrus1) - he has a kit for $100 plus shipping that will allow a direct bolt-in of the 5 speed. I used it, and I love the results. Plus the interior looks 100% stock. GD

Yeah - you need a side-starter EA71 bell-housing from a later 80's STD hatch. The EA81 bell-housing doesn't fit the EA71. Additionally, the EA71 flywheel is only capable of supporting the 200mm clutch, so you would either have to redrill the EA81 flyhweel, or just use the smaller 2WD clutch..... which really is like.........for lifted rigs. Jared (Rooinator) had this setup on his wagon for a while as well, but eventually moved to the EA81 for the greater power, and larger clutch. I should have said it *can* be done, but the difficulty with finding the side-starter EA71 bell-housing, and the smaller clutch make it less than desireable. Sorry I wasn't more clear. GD

I can do better than that - I made a write up on it. No one cared of course..... http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/4speed_mounts.html GD

Re-read the thread. For one thing your 82 tranny has a lower 3rd and 4th gear. So yes, 5th would lower your RPM's - to where it would be about 3400 at 80 MPH. But that's really ancillery to the goals of the 5 speed swap anyway. There's more important reasons to chuck the 4. Again - reread my earlier posts. GD

Hehehe. The EA82 feedback carb is a maddening peice of equipment ($hit). Underpowered, and rife with issues that aren't easily solved. The manifold vacuum sensor (which always fails BTW), is located on the passenger side strut tower. It's a black unit that's about 1.5"x2.5" with a 4 pin plug. It says "boost sensor" on it. They are always bad (I've never found a good one in the yards), they are dealer only parts, they are not repairable (I took one to peices to see), and they are right around $300 for a replacement. So not worth fixing. Best solution is to strip that crap off and replace it with a Weber, or SPFI. SPFI would be a good choice as you already have the oxygen sensor bung in your exhaust. There aren't any connectors for reading or clearing codes on the feedback carb models. They are cleared every time the ignition is turned off. But don't worry - they will come back I fought with one for a few thousand miles but gave up when I ran up against the boost sensor..... for the cost you can get a new Weber and be done with the whole mess. That's how I handled it, and I love having the extra power, and my mileage went up being there's no weird sensors causing the ECU to run in open loop. GD

Yep - or a D/R 4 speed. Unless it's a gen 1 - then you'll have to change the engine AND tranny. GD

Lefty Lucy. GD

They were 2WD 5 speeds with an extra 1(or was it 2?) ft of bed behind the rear wheels. Really silly looking actually. Isreal was the second largest subaru market in the 80's and early 90's and they were sold as delivery vehicles. GD

In the interest of not inciting yet another flame war on this subject - please consult the "similar threads" at the bottom of this page. GD

Hhhmmm - can you take a video of it? I'm not totally sure what you are describing. GD

Common EA81 Hatch. They came 4WD and 2WD, auto or manual with both EA81's and EA71's. Basically they are just shorter EA81 wagons without the rear doors, and coupe/Brat front doors to facilitiate entering the rear seat. If you are in Canada, they are called "Chaser's" GD

Actually it will hurt - you will prevent the graphite from bonding with the aluminium. If properly installed, dissasembly should result in the destruction of the gasket as it bonds to the aluminium sufaces like a head gasket would. This is why the surfaces must be COMPLETELY clean. All the failures I've seen were related to cheap gaskets or poorly prepared mating surfaces. GD

I had a clogged valve breather (PCV) hose cause one of the original cam seals to pop right out the front on my sedan. Of course that leaked at a rate of about 1 quart ever 10 miles..... GD

Unless you are planning to pull the engine there's no reason to do the cam or crank seals. They rarely fail in practice, and the cam and front crank seal are accesible later anyway. I usually evaluate that stuff as I go. GD

The cam is only engaged when the choke spring is holding the choke plate closed. Hesitation could be idle speed, timing, vacuum leaks, etc. And vacuum leaks near the base of the carb will cause hesitation. Do you have the vacuum advance attached to the carb? Does it work? GD

Fel-Pro's are better, and are only $16 each from Autozone. GD

8mmx1.25 GD

Wire wheel works best. Sanding removes too much material, and unless done very carefully with a perfectly flat surface will result in a warped surface. That, and 600 grit wouldn't do squat. It would clog too easily. Get a wire wheel. GD

I'll add that I have NEVER had a properly installed OEM gasket fail. I've blown TWO sets of Fel-Pro cardboard units....:-\. They just didn't do their homework on those. GD

Dealer only. NO SEALANT. The proper gaskets are graphite impregnated metal - just like a head gasket. And just like the HG's, they are designed to be installed dry. Clean the mating surfaces with a wire wheel. Clean the bolts with a wire wheel, and chase the threads in the heads with a tap. Torque to 12-14 ft/lbs with a 3/8" torque wrench. There's no sequence. If you use the cheap cardboard aftermarket gaskets then probably use a sealer on them - but they will fail no matter what you use. There's a reason Subaru doesn't make them from cardboard. GD

Hhhmmm - I beleive it was discussed in the thread about installing the N/A low gear and 4.11 diff into the RX tranny. I'm pretty sure there's no place inside the N/A tranny for the center diff to go. And even if it were there in the casing, you would need to have machine work done for the diff lock mechanism, etc. Also shimming it correctly requires special tools, etc..... it's better, if you want something like this, to take the low range from the N/A and put it in the RX case. GD

No - the FT4WD box shares many components with the early Legacy trannies. As the regular D/R has no center diff, there's no place for one to go in there. You can install the low range gear set from the regular D/R to the FT4WD D/R though. GD