GeneralDisorder

They really are hard like a coffin nail. I've driven a lot of vehicles, and only with the older soobs have I seen wheel bearings that could be driven making a terrible racket for thousands of miles to no effect. My ex-GF showed up one day with a rear wheel bearing that I really couldn't beleive - the whole wheel moved about two inches in and out at the top and she had been complaining about it for a week . Still wasn't in danger of the wheel comming off. The bearing was starting to disintigrate and was full of sand, and the inside edge of the tire was a little chewed. Had it been a hondar, or a yota that wheel would have fallen completely off. The front wheel bearings in an EA knuckle are nearly the same size as the bearings I'm used to repacking in Hummer H1's with 38" tires. And I HAVE seen the wheels fall off the H1's. Lieutenant Dan wasn't pleased that day . GD

Heh - if one plug doesn't do the trick, it's off to the tool department. Last time I took one of these out, it actually came out (big fight tho). This time it just ate the threads. Pretty ugly really. GD

Yeah - I should probably own one anyway. But I'm all about "feild expediency" as we used to call it.... you should see the neutral switch I created today.... any excuse to use my welder I suppose. GD

Hhhhmmmm - old spark plug with some grooves cut in the threads, and a slight taper ground at the end? I'll take a look at that. Thanks a bunch! GD

The FSM actually reccomends against EVER removing the pickup tube. Apparenty it's just not easy to get it sealed up again. GD

Great! That's exactly what I needed to know. For reference, this is one of the major differences with the Loyale SPFI vs. the older GL SPFI. Pin 15 is used only for the auto "park switch" on the GL's, and is not connected in a manual tranny vehicle. The Loyale ECU uses both a neutral switch, and a clutch switch, with the clutch switch using pin 15 on manual cars. The really, really crappy part is that 85 through 87 dual range transmissions are not equipped with neutral switches, and without dismantling the tranny, there's no way to add it. I had to get really creative.... Good stuff. GD

Use the highest rating you can get your hands on - they are backwards compatible. GD

What size tap am I going to need to clean out the threads on the stock EA82 y-pipe? I've got to do two of these things tommorow. I shattered the first one, and took an impact to it. The sensor threads just disintigrated - left all the thread metal in the cat. So I'm going to have to buy a tap for it since my set doesn't go quite that big.... GD

Anyone? GD

Carbonized oil - pretty normal. Every engine I've torn down looked pretty much the same. Castrol super clean will take it off easily. GD

It's a rheostat, and it needs to be cleaned. You can take it out and try, but usually I just work them back and forth rapidly a few times to knock the carbon off the contacts. GD

For what it's worth, my haynes manual shows the same diagram for "1990 - 1994". All my FSM's are EA81, so I am just as blind unfortunately. GD

Time to run a D-Check diagnostic. Check out the 89 FSM pdf for details. GD

1. It's not cheating. 2. That is better than a "butt splice". You'll notice that the wires have no corrosion at all. The electrical tape sealed it from oxygen, and using a copper clip with copper wire prevents any dissimilar metal reactions. It's actually a very effective, effiecient way to build a harness. GD

The choke hits the power steering reservior - the fix is to beat the power steering reservoir with a ball-peen hammer till it clears . Use the stock plastic Hitachi spacer under the adaptor for additional height, and beat it back just enough so the electric choke clears without touching. It does not hurt or effect the PS in any way. Mine has been like this for 20,000 miles. Also the EA82 still has plenty of room for the large air filter. Turning the DGV backwards is a paint in the butt - you have to replace the throttle cable, and lengthen the fuel lines, and then the AC idle up doesn't work, the base adaptor isn't the right shape, etc, etc. Major PITA. GD

If it's a single range, you can't "make" it a dual range by swapping the t-case. The low range gearset is inside the transmisson not the t-case (it has to be - the gear reduction must take place prior to the split between the front and rear diff, and the front diff is inside the tranny.... the low range by-pass is actually done before anything else in the power-flow of the tranny. It's the first driven gear right above the input shaft), and has a seperate shift linkage that's combined with the 4WD . The single range will not even have the holes in the main transmission machined for the shift rod. Basically, if it's a single range you are stuck with it. Unless you want to tear both tranny's apart and use the single range parts to repair your dual range. Also on the subject of over-drive - the 4 speed's 4th gear IS overdrive. The 4th gear in the 4 speed and the 5th gear in the 5 speed are nearly the same for the 83+ 4 speed, and only slightly higher in the 81/82 4 speed. The 5 speed has more "in-between" gears that make slow speed travel, and acceleration easier. With the 5 speed it's actually nice to drive in 3rd gear at 25 mph where the 4 either revs out in 2 or lugs in 3... GD

No - clearly not the EGR - this is obviously a direct result of the underpants gnomes living in the ASV ports. GD

I give up. Ruin it if you must. GD

The auto's really weren't much better. Probably worse if anything. The 3 speed auto isn't electronic, and has to rev really high to maintain 70 MPH. Plus the tranny is a heavy sucker. GD

The Hitachi's are crap. Especially the EA82 version, and most especially the EA82 feedback version. I've rebuilt/fixed/maintained them for years now, and I still hate them. After using and building Weber's, I decided to throw away all my Hitachi's and parts. I can't even stand to look at them. I'm going SPFI on all my rigs. And at some point a larger throttle body, and mega-squirt with crank fired ignition to eliminate the distributor. Built EA81 block with full FI and distributorless IG - totally waterproof for off-road. GD

Yes, it's different. The 90-94 SPFI has a "clutch switch" and "neutral switch", or an "inhibitor switch" if it's an auto. So far, my limited ability to research the SPFI system shows four distinct systems used, different wiring and some component differences with each, and slightly different ECU's as well. 1. 1986 2. 1987/1988 3. 1989 4. 1990-1994 Each requires slightly different tactics to retro-fit to non-spfi vehicles. GD

Yeah - I have to say that even the measly 16 HP increase I got with the EA82 SPFI engine and 5 speed dual range in my Brat - it moves pretty decent. Being light helps a LOT. Any weight I gained with the EA82 I lost when I tossed the 4 speed. So far I like it, and the more I tune up the SPFI the more I like it GD

Ford escort disty will bolt to the back of the passenger side head without much work. The aircraft guys do it a lot. GD

Resurface the flywheel - it's cheap, and usually a real quick turn-around (later the same day for my local NAPA) Just flush is fine. Check your PCV system - clogged up system can blow the seals right out of the engine. BIG leaks. Rope-trick - instead of bumping the starter (AKA - throwing heavy objects into the neighbors yard ), or jamming stuff in the flywheel teeth(AKA - dropping strange things in your bell-housing), thread some 1/4" nylon rope into the #1 cylinder at BDC of the comp. stroke to stop the engine from rotating safely. Removing old seals - use a couple small wood-screws and thread them into the rubber/metal part of the seal - grab with pliers and pull out the seal. GD

They are steel, and are basically just a friction fit. You will see the new ones you get are concave and the edges have a wedge shape. Use a socket that is near the same diameter with an extension on it to pound them in. No problem on the help - that's what we are all here for. Even I have questions now and then Oh - and you probably only need to replace the ones that have popped out GD