nipper

What does the tachometer say when this happens

hrmmm im confuzzled Anywho ill wait for years and miles to respond

ALWAYS put year and miles on the car, otherwise we sometimes wont have a clue on what to tell you. Didn't I respond to this at some other place or is this dejavu?

I will say the vw-subaru board I found that on makes NASOIC look down right freindly. They are having a war because the board is about maiting subaru power to vw vanagons, and they dont apreciate someone discussing a transmission swap. silly.

Wow it actually can be done. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=407222

Same mfg same brand same everything, except the 88 had a round plug, the 89 had a square one.

for some reason there is a difference between the 88 and 89 ncarbs, but couldnt find it in the FSM, so not sure if it is a real differnce or not.

No it wont. You may need to rebuild a head or heads, or may just luck out.

How timing belts/chains fail, this is typical but not always. When the engine is suddenly unloaded, like shutting off the engine, or taking your foot off the gas pedal, lest say, like on a highway. They are great at pulling but usually they are stretched out. The sudden unloading causes slack and the belt jumps, sometimes taking a tooth or three with it. Usually one tooth the car will run like crap and you escaped the big one. Car not running, well....

Carb hell. The 1st carb was full of this odd junk that was at some time called gasoline. Sent it out to be rebuilt. Came back clean but worse (and they left a freaking part out!). Anyone have a vent solenoid piston floating about? I am not the only person to get a crap rebuild on a justy carb so I was pissed but at least it wasnt just me. Put on a used carb from a running justy. Had to change the harness which required cutting the the main mix soloenoid. I could have opened the carb up to swap things over, but I wanted a carb from a running justy which meant not openeing it up to get a clue as to what is going on. Put the carb on, car fired right up, idles (sort of) runs etc. Idles well enough I can move it under its own power I dont think it is the carb, It may just need a good run around the block a few times, don't know.

Rutroh, just stop running at 110K, NOT a good sign. Not a good sign at all. You can get a pressure testor at a parts place that lends/rents tools.

All new. I think I have a the tb off a tooth as the car has a poor idle, the miss is a 1-2-3 thing give it gas and it is better but still there, more like a stumble. I have checked the timing twice and it looks like it is dead on, but subaru being subaru they really arent generous with the refernce marks. The car has sat for many years so I am wondering if it is just from sitting.

YOu may have to wait a bit. He is still on jackstands and is a mess inside.

I should do new picture set shouldnt I ?

I am so close. Actually not much got done this last summer due to either baking or swimming (weather). This is my hedge against gas and my "look I can park there!" city car. I just need to find the miss/stumble. My gut tells me I have the timing off a tooth, my brain says we couldnt have screwed it up as it is such a simple system

Yes could be the clutch hyd. Always replace them in a set as it just makes life easier. Unbolt the slave cylinder how does the fork feel? Sometimes what happens is the MC gets damaged after the clutch job if it is extended beyond its normal travel (IE pumping the system to flush). The cups travel farther then usual and tear on a little ridge inside the clutch MC. It doesnt happen often but it does. This will keep the pedal to the floor.

Can be a fork, but so close after a clutch I ma going tih the throw out bearing retaining springs failed. Sometimes people dont repalce these as they dont come with the clutch kit, but they must be replaced with a clutch.

I havent done one of these in a while. Since winter hasnt existed I am farther ahead then I planned. 1989 Justy 30,000 original miles CVT What's been done wheel cylinders calipers rotors brake fluid shoes and pads fuel pump drained tank of 8yo fuel (OMFG so vile) rubber fuel lines rebuilt carb (rotten rebuild so now a used one) Flush tranny (well its not really a flush as this doesnt have a torque converter) Timing belt (simple as it is how do I have it off one tooth) Tensioner Plugs Wires Cap Rotor Wiper Motor Horn Cleaned out a mouse condo from the heater Replace entire exhaust system Added a three stage cat in order to dump the air pump Battery Alt Belt Restored Body decals Restored all black trim parts Added: Right hand mirror External oil filter and engine oil cooler with a thermostat (weakest part of the engine is the oil system) Mech Oil Press Gauge (one under hood) Added two qts capacity to oil system Oil Temp Gauge Volt Gauge Alarm system (goes with the...) Power door locks - removed rear hatch lock cylinder and fixed dented area from repeated breakins - central locking Cruise Control Relay and wiring for later fog lights Second fuel filter Painted back panel between tailights Repaired minor rust (from sitting) Added 2003 SUbaru am/fm/wb/cd Added ipod/bluetooth interface To be done: Find miss (see timing belt) At least 1 tire (if not all four) Replace temp sensor - figure out why fan keeps short cycling Cruise - Trace the VSS signal and tap into - Get required minor parts to connect cable Connect door light signal for the alarm (easier said then done) - add rear speakers (may have to make custom mounts) Fix package tray (hello Mr fiberglass) Replace rear trim inside on tailgate Replace the ever popular fuel sending unit, 9 gallon tank it only reads one gallon Come up with a better idea for the gauges on the dash (fugly) Fix sunbaked paint Fix dent in left front fender (replace?) Figure out how to repair popped seams in the seats Anyone want to paint a fender for me

Here is how it works, there is a primary and secondary ignition system. They overlap so to speak. The primary is the low voltage side. There is voltage that goes to a module in the bottom of the disty. That sends a pulsed signal to the coil (this is very simplistic ill post a link for more details). The coil makes a high voltage (secondary) spark which goes to the disty. The rotation of the disty points the spark to the proper plug. http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Ignition/CDI.html

It could be a rotten mechanic. The TB snaps that disty will stop spinning. It may have snapped something but better bet is that the idlers were old and should have been replaced. It could be what he said, it is hard to tell from a distance, but you can always get a 2nd opinion.

Works for me, ill even give up my veggie garden for it

So I'm not getting a garage then

I dont care how much of a fire sale it is, I am not fixing a flat

Where do I put the air compressor then?

No ether. If his timing is off dont't want no flame throwing. Lets see what he says about amint and miles and timing belt.