nipper

Did you air down?

Next time it happens, put the car in Neutral and tell us what happens. Could be a worn contact in park. Remeber Electricity can be irrational and wierd at times.

Do they fasten to the stock cross bars?

Was a flaky NSS or clutch switch ruled out? I am leaning towards a tired ignition switch myself. You can always emporarily just put a light in the solenoid circuit and see if it lights up when it refuses to start just for diagnoses.

Doesnt always, but valves start to open before the piston reaches top dead center. Delay that opening you have a clsed cylinder longer so more compression. http://www.cdxetextbook.com/engines/comp/vlves/valvetimingdiagram.html

I was looking for a second spare myself

i looked at one of those and for some reason I rejected it. I don't remeber if it was it's size load rating or attachment. I think it was the size as I wanted it to be able to hold a spare tire.

210 is too high, considering it is supposed to be 180ish. I would double check the compression tester. Other possability is the timing is off a tooth (works both ways). Unless someone got really agressive with the cylinder head deck machining.

I have an auto with more torque (multilier) converter so that would help. I have taken him climbing before. Odd we have the same tires I have a tranny cooler will have a front skid plate and a rear one soon. So the roof basket and the 2nd spare would go on the car.i have no problem airing down, but how do you air backup with a pissant aircompressor that takes an hour for one tire

Thank you fairfax Each test has it s own ppluses and minuses. Even if the timing is off you can get a cylinder to pass a leakdown test. The compression test (wet and dry) will tell you if things are in synch. I am going to stand firm on timing as bent valves would have shown up on the leakdown. Do all 6 cylinders, wet and dry, and never rely on someone elses test data unless it is in writing.

Show me the numbers of a compression test and prove me wrong. i want to get that off the list of possabilites before you look for gremlins. And also check to make sure there is power to the coils.

You are off a tooth, that is a dead giveaway, even with the H4

Lets do a compression test. I have seen people say they were fine without really knowing what they mean. Pet peeve is "they were fine" and they didnt do a wet test.

Your digging too far right now. You have a set of coils working on the other side of the car, swap them and see if it follows. For it to be all three missing is something common to it. Soobys fire coils by going to ground through the ECU. I am not sure how the power feeds to the coils or how it splits if at all. Start by swapping coils, but to have one side work and the other ok (Still want the wet and dry compression numbers) it sounds like something is off a tooth. Even bent valves wouldnt be on all three on one side.

And the numbers? Are all these on the same side?

Compression test

I think the problem may not be the AWD per se, but a tired clutch pack.

Even if I had a jeep Rubicon I wouldnt do it ....yet. I would need more exp With not s*****g myself on steep roads that could kill me that arent paved I dont think there is an up on that side, I thinkit may only be down, well down two ways...

For 1985 that is the check engine light

Yes don't go back, it could hurt any case you have.

There is not any clear information on this as everyone asks that question on the boards and lists.. Personally to save a engine failure I would dig into it and make sure.

Since some dealers deny these even exist, here is the link http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=Info_SubaruOil

No a new person on the board wants to lift his roo, so he was asking me. I know thats not an outback but it gives him a pretty good idea of what he needs. But hrmm .. more height ...

THANK YOU ... perfect