nipper

That will rub out with some emery cloth and JB weld

Chain parts stores are useless to test Alt. Simple teste, everything on, engine rpm 1800 rpm, voltage should be 13.5 to 13.8 volts. this sounds like a clogged cat to me, since it seems to be a power issue and not a sputtering issue. Get yourself a cheap vacume gauge and : http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm

As they sit, well the CVT will win any race from 0-30, which around here is enough to put off any mustang

Yup, there are a few here too

Nonononono the 3 cyl is a nice oddball powerful engine, and the cvt when dirven properly is really amazing.

i do, i own one. SHould be on the road by april.

Plug wires mya look ok (and these may befine). What happens is they have less silicon or inferior silicon to what Subaru specifies from it's suppliers and they break down quicker.

Wel the next thing to do is pull the radio and drive the car, look for noises behind the radio.

Sometimes if it is an old Master cylinder a brake job can damage the internals if bled by foot (really old). What happens is that the cups are pushed past their usual travel, the same travel that they have been doing for millions of strokes. A ridge and gunk can build up and damage the cups. ( I said sometimes )

I was wondering about a throttle body (cheap FI) as opposed to a full fuel injection conversion for the Justy

Tsktsktsk no one wants to keep things simple? YOur bushings are shot, nothing wrong with the linkage itself. Just replace the bushings in the shift linkage and your done. I think the performance places have performance bushings for the shifters.

On the 89 Justy it has like 8 internal parts. I sort of like the electronic ones less hoses less parts. I was looking at converting the justy to a webber but i need a shaft through the bodyand the weber from what I can tell does not have that. It is just like any carb decision, smaller less power better MPG vs larger better performance less MPG.

Your at high enough mileage that your universal joints in your driveshaft may be shot. do not drive this untill you rule out the driveshaft, as it can make life incredibbly interesting for 5 seconds.

We don't all have welders. Sometimes brite animal force or delicate dremel tool surgery, then splitting the nut has to be done by us peasants

You need that rubber seal. It serves two purposes (and on seom cars three). It keeps the fluid from jostling around and getting airated. It keeps the fluid from coming back quickly into the resivoir and areating (like a fountain). It takes up volume to keep air out.

rear mount is EASY. Basically it is an unbolt and replace. You may have to jack the tranny a little bit to get it in there.

A/F = air/fuel mix = Oxygen sensor

Using 20 year old technology as a measuring stick is like saying all four cylinders cna only make 80Hp. So so wrong. When lockups first came out GM lockups were new and had issues. It is never heard of these days (someone will say Mememe but ya know, there is always one). It is not the torque converter. It is a A/F issue or vacume leak. Possibly a dying O2 sensor.

Replace the PCV valve. Cleaning the IAC doesnt always work. Did you put in wires, what kind.

No no no no maybe yes and no. Delay engagment is a bad seal inside the transmission common to 01's. TransX is the usuall fix. Have you replaced the PCV valve? When was the last tuneup?

Heck it can even be a suspenion part

The transmission mount doesnt age well, I would look there. Noises travle so that may be why you think it is the dogbone.

+++++1 on these guys. I have used them for Blu and the Justy. Also great communications.

hehehe thats the first thing I thought too

Generally all engine are very happy at a fixed rpm in thier torque band. It is all the stopping and starting they arent thrilled by