nipper

I can't really follow what you are saying. You do realise that everything on a subaru is switched on the low side of the load.... meaning : Voltage --to--- device---to--- switch (in this case the ECU)

Front brakes do get hot, they do 90% of the work. You may be looking at this wrong, why arent the reas getting hot. I am not sure of what the issue is. Disc brakes do slightly drag by their nature. Can you explain it a little better?

Did you start with a basic, like the shuft cable adjustment?

PS no where do I see the usual things you do with something like this, starting with a tune up. A pcv valve. Filters. If this has not been done, sort of a useless discussion. You need a clean baseline. I still think it was just coincidence.

just diconnect it and see what happens don't take it out. I bet it doesnt get better. 1000000's of these have been installed and never has anyone had mpg drop, so I think it is another issue. Also it is not fair to bash someone as over the phonoe they would not know where to start. I wouldnt either unless the car was in my driveway or shop. I could rattle off quite a few things it could be, but that wouldnt be fair untill I saw the car. What I would do once it is here as opposed to the list of posabilites can be endless. Good luck

I am confused .... you have no reverse and torque bind?

Your fuel tank is not venting properly. On the egr what everyone has said or the transducer for it.

+1 on everything everyone has said.

But i wanna Easter egg!

Normally I would suggest pulling the sender, cleaning the electrical wip surface with a pencil eraser, and reinstall

Check the intake manifold gaskets. I think on this engine coolant passes through them and a common place for a leak.

Yes. If you stop and think about it you changed a dimmension that the pushrods go over. It doesnt take much to throw the valve adjustment out in a case like this.

If it ran fine before, and now it doesnt, time to retrace your steps. Is the vlave clearance properly set?

but your all the way over there .... way over there..... how are you with carbs

This is for a fwd ford but you get the gist: http://www.drivetrain.com/images/stories/documents/axel_instructions.pdf Remco's Axle-lock Coupling Disconnects the automatic transmission for towing a front wheel drive vehicle. The Axle-Lock is a mechanical disconnect built into the vehicle's front drive axle. A single Axle-Lock is installed into the right front axle (passenger side).When the Axle-Lock is placed into a disengaged position, the transmission will not turn and the speedometer will not register mileage. To understand the principle of the transmission disconnect, where only one axle is disconnected, you should understand the built in effect of a differential. It is commonly known that with both drive wheels off the ground, and the transmission in "park" position, when one wheel is turned forward, the other wheel freely turns in the opposite direction. With the Axle-Lock in the disengaged position, the left wheel can turn forward while a portion of the right axle connected to the Axle-Lock turns freely in the opposite direction. The right wheel also turns freely with its axle disconnected at the Axle-Lock. This same principle used in the Axle-Lock, is used by several US and foreign manufactures of 4 wheel drive vehicles to disconnect the extra axle. Disengaging and engaging is accomplished by reaching around the front tire, and rotating the Axle-Lock housing one-third turn; clockwise to engage, and counter-clockwise to disengage. Steering the front wheels to the far right, allows easy access to the Axle-Lock.

For automatics there is available a pump to circulate the auto tranny fluid to keep the transmission happy. There are even certified cars to be towed behind motorhomes (not many).

Yes they do, but I could not find out if they disconnect because they are getting dragged, or like the old 4wd hubs and are manually turned to disconnect. You can powerslide a 4wd vehical on loose surface, just have to practice.

Not really. No one makes a device to disconnect half shafts from the front wheels. There are free wheeling hubs that used to be used on the rear wheels, i haven't seen any on the front wheels. There are drive shaft disconnects. I am sure someone someplace has rigged something up, but with enough money and a machine shop one can do wonders.

No its rather complicated from what i see on the justy board, but no one has done an tbi swap. I dont see why that would be too hard. An ideal FI swap on a justy seems to go out and buy a FI justy, put your licese plates on it, and you converted it.

1989 Justy was the last carberated car in the US, after that they went to FI.

Ah the megasquirts i have seen on the justy board has been full blown FI conversions. I wonder if you can just bolt on a TBI fomr a sooby and all the needed electrics. I would like to see the TBI conversion, for that I would be interested. I talked with 1st subaru who had a 360, he said subaru carbs aren't available anymore and he is going to ask around to find me a good rebuilder.

What is the temp in youre arear right now as the above does produce a good point to think about.

I cant do a weber. This is a cvt and has a cable on the other side of the carb for the CVT throttle input. How are you doing megasquirt, a 3cyl fuel injection or TBI kind of thing. I've looked into megasquirt but it is way too much money and work and I would like the Justy on the road yesterday. I have seen more complicated carbs, I just don't have the workspace to do it properly.

Rebuild kits abound, as do floats. Even mix solenoids, but the vent piston itself is not. The first carb was original and they lost the piston and who knows what else.

Large bore cars by thier internal mechanics (physics) and mass do run at lower rpms and produce lots more torque at lower RPMs so they like to rev lower. Key here is torque. More torque you have lower revs you can run because you have more pull available.