nipper

Go over the entire front end with a fine tooth comb. This sounds like ball joints, but can be anything or everything at this age.

If it is not full time awd but truly part time 4wd and a manual you can flat tow it with the car in neutral and in FWD. This is done all the time on cars with manuals and manually selected four wheel drive. If it had full time all wheel drive then you could not. The car in neutral the output shaft is still turning, to which the gears are attached. This will sling around lubricant like it normally does. All Neutral does is disconnect the input shaft from transmitting power to the gears then the output shaft. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=120204&highlight=towing http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117220&highlight=towing http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=103190&highlight=towing http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=114255&highlight=towing

http://www.scribd.com/doc/24542568/How-to-Keep-Your-Subaru-Alive On line no less and fully readable

I think he meant the center diff, a brain slip on his part, not front diff.

The AWD is controlled by the duty C and a spool vlave. The Duty C cycles on and off many times a minute to vary the amount of applied power to the rear wheels. For some reason in order to disable the AWD the solenoid must be energized and held open. When the solenoid fails it stays closed, so you no longer have AWD but have 4WD. The fuse will have no effect at this point if the solenoid has failed. With this many miles on the car (or age) the clutch pack is most likely worn so it would be advisable to rebuild it. As it gets worse, you may actually find it hard (and unsafe) to even do the simplest manuvers in the car.

NO thats a different thread and we need lost more information (oh like when was the last tune up)

Lets move the volvo to the non sooby forum so we don't get confused here with issues. May be an exhaust leak, check all the exhaust joints, and check the condition of the muffler.

Well the hardest part is mating the two, after that it is all down hill. You loose what little trunk you have as that is usually where the radiator goes. Airflow is through the trunk lid after it had been punched, or by loosing the entire floor. http://frost.bbboy.net/vwengineconversions http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1834501

It is in the center of gravity of the car. It can not vibrate, nor can it be disturbed by carbon based interfaces, hence why it is strongly mounted. Also this way incredible amounts of bas will not bother it either.

http://www.americantracktruck.com/ Those are about 10,000.00 USD

Matracks are 360lbs each wheel for light duty. Max speed 40 mph. Er um, are we sitting down? Good. Prices for matracks for a automobile of some kind looks like they start at 26,000 dollars us. Can't imagine the drive on/off being much cheaper. Someone stole a set for a tahoe and they were valued at 27,000. Looks like a set of sherpas may be cheaper

That is the G-Sensor. It is for the ABS brakes. Very important. Though usually they are more squarish.

WHich year car is this and where is it located?

Well some details. Obtaining the engine is not the issue. You can buy any engine from any car and ship it to the US, it is what you do with it after that that can be an issue. CA- never gonna happen. Emissions generally shouldnt be a stumbling block only if you can get everything else to work. Megasquirt is not set up for a CANBUS system. You have to use the sensors on the engine as they njot only talk to a computer but to each other. Megasquirt will be mega mega bucks to pull that off anywhere in the hear future. CANBUS also integrates the body computer, so I am not sure of that interface/link yet and how they react to eachother. Torque - Another HUGE issue. Unlike other vehicals where with a big enough wallet and machine shop you can pretty much match any engine to any transmission. Subarus are very limited as to what you can put in there and still keep it a subaru. The clutch is the weak point in the link as for all the torque it looks like subaru has it geared too high in 1st hence it chews up clutches. But have the bucks ($$$) and the time, anything can be done. Knowledge would help too, but more $$$$ goes with less knowledge (pay someone else for thiers)>

This looks like a much more workable set of treads for a subaru. http://www.autoblog.com/2012/04/25/track-n-go-treads-dangerously-close-to-awesome/#continued

WHat pole, i didnt see any pole .... http://www.autoblog.com/2012/04/25/rally-car-slams-into-pole-continues-on-to-finish-second/#continued

There are just way too many questions on how to do this from the OP that is is scary. Go to a shop, skip the emergency room visit.

Thats quite a lot for a spedo cable but it does happen. Can be a few things. 1-blocked air breather line for the dif 2-failed oring 3-worb spedo gear (posiibly, on some cars they are grooved to keep oil from going up the cable. Now I looked this up and found this http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_2/manual_transmission/mt_speedometer_gear/ I know this is not your year, but it doe show an oil seal. I don't know if yours has one but I would imagine it would. They can make quite a mess, consdiering thats how a screw pump operates.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=132295

Well lest start with the basics. Look under your hood, what does the coolant in the overflow tank and radiator look like?

There was one dealer that would tell me mine was worthless, parts were hard to come by, and i should junk it and buy a new one. Another dealer would tell me that it was good for another 100,000 miles.

EGR should be left alone. This is much different from the 1970's where they robbed some power. It also helps prevent ping. Air tubes (smog pumps?) were basically not needed if you put on a modern cat. Even the air injector which didnt do anything for power (just a reed operated air pump) was only there for the old two stage (two part) cats.

You need suck squish boom to run an engine. We have to start there. The pump works fine. What is the repair history for this car. When did the problem first appear? There are several things that can keep the car from starting, short list - crank sensor - cam sensor - engine temp sensor - maf sensor - no compression - jumped timing belt just to name a few, so lets start with basics.

I have a 5.5w single cylinder 10hp in the shed I start every month. As asweet as a project as this sounds it may overkill and a fuel gulper. But dont forget the waste heat from the engine is good heat for winter

The tires are the result of the bearing wear, not the other way around