nipper

Usually just the mass of the wheel or the car will do it.

That would work too just need an impact load on the clutch

No ramps, ramps bad, bad ramps.

My car does this from time to time, usually means the tranny mount is weak or bad for Blu. Have it checked out as it may also be the driveshaft. You are at the right time for either or both and the driveshaft is not pretty when it fails.

This does happen from time to time whjen a car sits for a long time. Can you try starting it in gear to get it going (or push starting it). Usually this wil be enough to get it unstuck. Rocking the car back and forth in high gear (by hand) Another thing to try is with your foot on the brake pedal, coil disconnected, NSS bipassed put the car in gear and engage the starter. Usually one of these three will break it free.

This sounds like a bad solenoid.

Did you ever do it the proper way yet? drain radiator with cap off cold (just to have a starting point) Start car SLOWLY refill radiator When filled wait for t-stat to open. There will be a surge of fluid then everything settles down. Keep filling system. Replace cap, top off overflow. Drive around block. Allow to cool, repeat once if needed (not the draining the rad part). More then once then air is getting in someplace. This subaru doesnt have a heater valve so skipping it open to hot isnt a huge error.

i DID say start with a tuneup.

Replace the cable as it is just going to happen again.

Do all the tires mtach by chance, as this sounds like torque bind.

Tune up never a waste of money. I bet you had a cv joint replaced with something that was not a subaru part.

Have the axles ever been replaced? When was the last time this had a tune-up? What other work has been done in the past

Car show.

Can be a cv joint, a universal joint is this has 4wdd to name a few things

Thats what i was thinking. Is that it?

Well right now we are taking history, as it can still ba anything at this point. Is it a hallow sounding knock?

how old is the clutch

With all the information at hand, I would say it is the fault of greece leaving the EU causing the knocking. Now if you give us more information... Year, model, engine, transmission, mileage. Then Exactly when does this happen? Is the car hot or cold, does it go away at all with increas of engine speed. What recent work has been done to the car.

Glad you found us

This sounds more like it is a delaership issue and not a subaru issue and should be taken up with an atty and whomever you can file complaints wiht in CT. 1st off certified really means nothing. All that you can be sure of is that it will pass inspection. Google Certified Used Car is just a sucker term http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/car-buying-advice/guide-to-used-car-buying/buying-a-used-car/overview/index.htm Anyone can "install parts per subaru instructions" and still manage to screw things up royally. Block issues, the only issues I have heard is from the screen OR (which can happen on any turbo) the internal selas failibg and the car consuming all the oil in the crankase. There is a TSB that a DEALERSHIP would know about and not a shop if they did not know of it. http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=Info_SubaruOil Issue i see here is that the shop screwed up, not subaru. You can not hold subaru lible for a part a non subaru installed. You have to go after the shop that installed it. So many things are wrong here. Why not go to the dealership the first time for the turbo? Why was the turbo not purchased directly from subaru instead of a third party? Any dealer that forces you to buy a lifetime warrenty on a car (even if they are giving it away you are being forced to buy it as nothing is free) should not be someone to deal with. I know of a few ASE mechanics that arent worth the powder and shot to blow them to hellsinky. Scream all you want, but there comes a point when you need to talk to a lawyer and let him do the talking.

Ivans got a parts car?

i loved the MG's (almost bought one), and any of the odd french or italian stuff with wierd little rear engines

Subaru CVT There was a hiccup or two in the software at first but that seems to be solved. Some notice the noise some don't, but it is not a Rolls Royce so some noise is present anytime a chain is used. So far they seem to be holding up well. The Nissan version uses the belt design of the Justy, while Subarus new CVT is a subaru only design. Nissan system

i paid 500 for one with 30K miles on it that had to be brought back to life. Big things to look for, rust and condition of the engine oil. They need frequent oil changes to keep them alive and ticking. Why the low miles?

A gentleman at Carlisle gave me a box of FF1 parts. there are some gaskets (valve cover and 2 larger square ones)and some other part that is a cable of some kind (throttle? Choke?). Anyone wants them contatc me, all yours for the price of shipping.