nipper

What year is this?

I agree, sounds typical.

24 MPG freeway depends upon how fast you are driving. it seems 68 is the magical point where it starts dropping. PSA - as long as you have all the rear drive equipment on the car, doing FWD won't reduce fuel consumption.

Yes pretty much. Before you do that do some trouble shooting. Make sure power is getting to the motor. Sometimes the harness though the hatch fails. A power surge may have helped a tired harness along to its death.

I can't pull u[ the link

Sounds like your voltage spiked and took out the weakest links. There may be two bulbs, only one way to find out. If the bulbs are cheap enough you may think about replacing all of them (the internet is your freind). Check the fuse box and see what else operates off that same circuit. If everything else works, then it is not a main fuse or fuseable link.

Er ... no. If that was the truth we would all be having issues. CV grease is different from axle grease (generic term) and doesnt really dry out. Cage reversing is so much work IF it was a cv joint would be easier just to get a rebuilt axle. Rear cvs do such little work compared to the front, that both cages see the same wear and tear. It is not like the front (for arguments sake only as I would never ever recomend this) where the outers see more stress then the inners. Can you post the thread here to refresh our memories?

You can shop around and get good warrenties on transmissions. Don't go toa chain, due a lot of research on the net and ask around. There are great shops out there. Some rebuild them on premises, some get them from rebuilders. Also it is not so much the warrenty but where else besides the original shop can also cover it. A place that installs rebuilt transmissions will cover everything. Extended warrenties on older cars are basically a ripoff. They were sued here in NYS by the atty general. They are not worth the money.

Only for a rebuild. There may be some out there but google and the yellow pages are your best bet.

It is a lot to ask to test every transmission. This is why they have 30 day warrenties. Try to get one locally if you can, makes it easier if it has to be returned.

http://www.autoblog.com/2012/03/26/2013-subaru-brz-first-drive-review-video/#continued

Tone rings break easily when disturbed, and not uncommon to break on something as simple as this.

PCV valve can cause a lot of oil consumption.

I just run a new ground from the engine to the battery and that usually resolves any ground issues.

You have two choices. One is to cut off the old lug and replace itwith a universal (I have done that). The other is to go to an autoparts store (dealer not needed) and get a replacement cable.

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/03/23/subaru-outbacks-door-fires_n_1373834.html?ref=business

define "kids" That is my biggest fear. All this software and hardware driving for us, and one day that itsybitsy fault light comes on then what happens to the carbon based user interface behind the wheel and the one in front of them.

(apologies to The Who) http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2012/03/subaru-uses-stereo-3d-tech-in-new-eyesight-adas/#more-435293

I'm sorry, i can't beyond the question due to how SHINEy everything is.

I would run two new grounds, one from the tranny to the engine (or anywhere else) and the other from the engine to the neg battery pole. You can do just a drain and fill 4x and that would be a good flush. Don't use synthetic, i agree. The CEL would be interesting. At your milegae the dreaded O2 sensor would be, well, just a bad O2 sensor, which may be the issue (but a long shot). If it is a bad lockup, driving in D3 it should go away. If it doesnt it is not the TC. D3 inactivates lockup.

The littel amplifier in the disty that goes bad can drive you nuts. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesnt.

ATRA is a good place to start but still be cautous, I'm surprised about the warrenty, as usually it is the lifetime of the original tranny, not of the sale

AAMCO is still an evil place. Look around find an independent shop. If you do some research on them it is hard to find a good one, I am sure there is one out there some place, But for the most part you will leave with a transmission whether you need it or not. You gte hit with the "we have to take it apart to see whats wrong" Then you get the call that if you dont' want them to fix it becuae the price is too high, they give you a bucket of parts back. Used transmission is a more economical way to go.

AAMCO, if you og there i will personally see that your subaru ownership rights are taken away, right down to your spare parts and owners manual AAMCO is bad, bad, bad. Ask a subaru dealer where they send their customers. Ask around ask anyone BUT aamco. If the car has been doing this for a while and it hasnt gotten any worse it should be fine. Driving over the pass you should be in D3 and all should be well, if not thats why we AAA cards