nipper

Another vote for keep going with it

It may be remapped, but first when you get that many codes you look for a common denominator. To me that would be the harness connectors or a bad weak ground. Since it is old enough I would run a new engine ground for the heck of it, then check all the connectors are clean and dry first.

As i say it is your money, your risk with illegalities and your risk of blinding other drivers. Don't listen to an expert that has been cited here many times before. Also lets ignore that he cites at least 5 references directly back to their sources about how bad it is. So it is not just "one opinion but if you wish to be that way and not click on links http://dastern.torque.net/techdocs/HID/HB1_HID_Retro.pdf http://dastern.torque.net/techdocs/HID/HB4_HID_Retro.pdf http://dastern.torque.net/techdocs/HID/HB1_HID_Retro_a.pdf i am going to drop out of this thread. You have made up your mind, logic and science will not change it sohave fun.

Are all the hoses attached to the air intake? I am begining to think you may need a compression test to see what is going on. When and how did this first start

Lots and lots and lots and lots of reasons why not to do it, as it is a waste of money. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html

Is it clicking or ping? can you reproduce it when the car is parked? Has the car gotten louder when cold? How are the CV joints?

I am wondering how the ground is at the coils. Do me a favor, spray water on the coil (this can be done with a warm engine if it is freezing outside) in the evening and look for sparklies.

Transmission codes have nothing to do with ECU codes. They seperate computers with different ways to read them.

But wont solve the HG issue.

That is quite possible too, it is sticking untill the car warms up.

Is it throwing any codes. Was everything replaced with the timing belts. Very odd to have 1-2 go bad as they are on opposite sides of the engines. Yes the two black boxes with wires are the two coils.

Get the proper plugs for the car nothing fancy. Use Subaru OE wires. It can throw the codes, and yes lack of a tuneup can make the car run like crap. Have you swapped the coils around to see if the problem moves, if it doesnt it is not the coils. How old is the timing belt?

Sorry i call them all blend doors sounds better then one of the directional flappy things

Start off in D1 when it wont go and let me know what it does. (shift to D once underway)

2.2 is the better choice. The 2.5 is engineered to its max possible output (DOHC) so it is somewhat fragile. The 2.2 is robust and has the ptoential for lots of tinkering.

I am going with a vac leak someplace. When the car is cold the (most likely a crack in plastic) opens up and no def. When car is warm from a warm garage, the thing expands and closes the leak. STart by checking the blend door motors (vac diaphrams) with a hand held vac pump. Wiggle them while you have the vac pulled on them and see if the needle moves. Also test the vac resivoir under the hood (i think this has one) if it has one.

I don't see the term "Spark Plug" anywhere. Replace them and the wires and lest get a clean baseline. Replace the wires as they are old and can "look fine" but be worn and useless.

Gte real oil. Does the knocking go away after the engine warms up? Does it sound like it is coming from the front middle or rear of the engine? Will the car move in R of 1st when cold.

There was a recall for the MC, but this is a booster issue . It is not an uncommon issue either as some other cars do it on occassion for another reason. Technically it is not the cars fault ... IT IS PEOPLE! The mositure from the air inside the car freezes up the valve. The cure for this sometimes is to replace the brake booster but there is no guarentee. Subarus happen by this (thats what sometimes fixes it) or the check valve (thats why sometimes it doesnt solve the problem).

Not true. ALmost every car made today gets a 5 star rating, with very few getting 4, so crash all you want! :-p

http://www.minitrucktalk.com They have a sambar section

The problem will be the rear wheels. The rear suspension the higher you lift, the closer the rear wheels get to the rear (front) of the wheel arch. This is what limits tire size.

Thee solution is to live with it. What happened was the PB booster froze. What she needs to do is start the car and pump the brake pedal HARD with the car running three or four times. This plus the vac of the engine breaks the ice loose and she will be good for most the day. In temps below freezing always do this.

Actually they are using different kinds of steels, more aluminum and other materials. There are many places where weight is being reduced as mfg's get more comfortable with new materials. Super computers are helping a great deal by showing how structure has more to do with crash saftey then mass of the vehicle.