nipper

It is most likely a blend door motor. The motors are on the HVAC duct work and control air direction. They do sometimes fail with age.

Actually they are really simple to read, don't know where they can be dificult comes from http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm

Info we always need, modle, engine, transmission, mileage. With both rear wheels off the ground you should be able to turn one and the other will either not turn or go in the other direction. It may not turn only because of drag from the brakes (disc pads). Do you have room to try to go forward?

Sent

There is also the potential issue of it being something far more .... dark (cover your ears and eyes if you don't want to hear it) ready? Main Bearings Connecting Rod bearings.

What it should do is come on as a check, go off, then start flashing if you have a hard instant failure. YOu are in limp mode, so this is much more then a stuck solenoid or failed sensor of some kind. i can send you the OEM diagnbostic procedures, which also includes non-trouble code methods of trouble shooting. It sounds like to me the transmission is blind. It can not sense engine Rpm, road speed and or load. Those three are critical to safe shifting. Third gear is a limp mode, and is a default that has been around since the dawn of slush boxes. Check all your harnesses and plugs.

Yes but it is easy. Also a bad ABS sensor can do this too. Inspect the sensors, make sure they are perfect cylinders in hsape (no rounded edges). Rounded edges will throw off the magnetic pulse they are looking for.

im going to go with replace the crank sensor instead of fixing it since it is damaged already.

Everyone gives the ECU too much credit. It has only one purpose, and that is for emission controls. It doesnt car about voltage, because low voltage car doesnt run zero emissions. Traditionally the Bat light on cars in general runs from handy to useless. In subarus they do sometimes do thier job, but get a bit confusing since it lights up the brake light too. They are called idiot lights for a reason (because they are idiotic and as a UI). Only way to get around this is to get a voltage gauge. To my industries defense, there is a lot of competition on the dash board real estate. 99% of the public really could care less about a voltage gauge, or even now, sadly, a temp gauge (I hope that makes a comeback, no reason why that can't be digital on the outdoor temp readout on the dasg). There is also the cost of adding one (a tremendous one as something has to be moved or redesigned to make room for it). Even with the earlier outbacks i had to go JDM to make them fit

If it ran before and doesnt now, i would tri[ple check EVERYTHING you touched, including un plugging and then reconnecting every electricle connector you touched and see. I think it is a harness issue.

I was wondering when the vultures would come out

Get the CEL working, lets see if it even works, if it doesnt odds are the ECU is cooked. Check to see if there is power to the fuel injectors. The injectors are grounded through the ECU in order to operate.

Do you have a CEL light when first starting? Crank is spark, cam is fuel. Even if the timing belt is off a few teeth you should still get spark. Check your fuses and connections

Ohms mean nothing as long as it is not showing an open. The sensor is a reluctance type. When the high point on the crank wheel passes under the sensor, it makes an AC pulse, so a analog meter is better then a digital in this case. As long as it makes a pulse it is fine. You can run it without sheilding to get things going, but you need to replace it at some time with a good one. It is really easy to pick up a stray AC signal and since it is a very low voltage AC signal it may cause the occasional miss.

This isnt as uncommon as you think it is on cars in general. It is just the Aluminum corroding on the surface and causing the higher resistance. You may want to add a ground from the alt to the battery as a backup solution.

No codes and weirdness i would suspect a cracked tone ring.

How many miles on the car? Does it make any noises on start-up or when idleing Get yourself a cheap mechanical oil pressure gauge and see what it is reading. Get one that can has the best range below 20 psig (easiest to read) and see exactly what oil pressure you do have. Does your oil smell like oil or is there fuel in it?

Nothing wrong with the ECU. If it is always #4 and not throwing a code it can be an injector leaking.

Sucks about the car, but you get more years to complain about the bad fruit cake at Christmas!

CV Joint.

I hope you alos have an AAA membership as insurance, let us know how you make out.

No they don't dont know where that conclusion came from. Weather the tranny was slipping or not it would not affect park. I think you need to look for a mechanical failure, like a transmission mount (and/or eninge mounts), shift cable or shift cable bracket.

And do them both.

I still say it is a compression issue. DO a weat compression test and lets see what happens. Squirt some oil in the cylinders. Repeat the test, if the numbers do not come up you have to look at it as some kind of valve issue