nipper

Plan C is that to buy time, but I have an AWD car I want an AWD car, otherwise I would (covers blus ears) sell him and get a :Flame:honda.

Blu is sick. What happened was 4 wheeling Blu got water in his tranny fluid. The dipstick was partially out. Blu lost 3rd and 4th. We did a quick drain and fill and some magical elixers. After 28 miles he got 3rd and 4th back. He was fine for the 100 mile drive home. The next day he lost them again, now all has been fine for 2 weeks except ... Torque bind. It is not there when cold but is when hot. The tranny has 300,000 miles on it. The AWD unit 120,000 miles. Normally with a loss of the upper two gears I would say the tranny is cooked, but all has been fine. I am sort of a little confused as to what to do next as usually on a transmission with this mileage once it acts up it is at the end of the road. The healing itself has me confused. My options: Pay for a real flush and cross my fingers. I have done a driveway flush but with water contamination that never works well. Just bite the bullit (I have accepted this due to the mileage) and get a rebuilt transmission and be done with it. If Blu was 200,000 miles I know what I would do, the real flush then rebuild the AWD if needed. 300,000 miles is a different ball game. My gut tells me to go for the rebuild, but should I even try the full flush. Even if it works, the question is for how long? Blu seems to be shifting fine. For a while he seemed too fond of second gear but now seems to be back to normal. None of this is a solenoid or tire issue (new tires). Used is out of the question as Blu will last another 300K easily. I don't want to throw 100 bucks for a flush for what the inevetible is if that what the inevitable will be.

This usually is.

Is there a flashing ATF light? For some reason they do not always throw codes. Unplug one and drive. If there is no change it is that one, if there is nt its the other. Another possible scenario is that if it is cable driven the cable drive gear can be stripped and cause the same issues. First look and see if you have a cable or not.

VSS's. There are two. When one fails the other takes over and drives the spedo. Whne one fails AWD is shut down since the car has no way of telling if wheeels are spinning or not. 1995 may or may not have a cable driven spedo as that is a switch year. If it is cable then it would be a bad spedo cable and may still very well be a bad vss sensor also.

The lighjt indicates the previvious time the car was operated there was an electical fault, so it had the issue when you bought it home. You just did not know thats how the lite works.

There is no secret handhsake, you just need to pull the codes by jumping wires, but in your case there is no need. Your Duty C is fried and needs to be replaced. Next question is is there any damage to the clutches themselves. Depends upon how bad the bind is and how long it has been like this. Sometimes you can't tell till the solenoid is replaced.

The starter motors on these things don't usually go bad, it is the solenoid contacts which are easy to replace. An Alt is NOT a cheap thing to replace the parts on and rebuild. After having bought rebuilds (one from subaru no less) I have started going the used route. When will it go? When you have a women in labor in the middle of a showstorm while the dog is getting car sick 50 miles from anywhere. If you are worried about it get a voltage gauge. They will usually start to drop voltage (that you can't see normally) as they start to go. Of course some of them just go poof. If you really are worried about it get a replacement and either store it or go ahead and replace yours.

A CTS will not throw a code unless it is completely open or shorted, otherwise everything inbetween looks like a normal function.

You never mentioned anything about a total loss of power in your original post, you really need to be more specific. Is there a CEL on? Is there a flashing ATF light onstartup? Lets throw everything out the window and start over, and make sure you are NOt leaving out any other details. Is the car hot or cold or does it not make a difference. Is the weather humid or dry or doesnt make a differnece. When is the last time the car had a tuneup when is the last time the PCV valve was replaced Has the timing belt ever been chainged The issue going away in D3 rules out a catalytic converter issue. A cat issue would not go away in a lower gear, in fact it would be a little worse due to the incresed exhaust volume of the higher rpm. Also a good tech can check a cat really easily with a vacum gauge.

It would

Thats normal. When you find the car hunting a lot in rolling hills put the car in D3 and everyone and everything will be happier.

When it starts happening put the car in D3 and see if it goes away.

+1, as i have used it too.

If you take the radiator flush it out really well before storing it. Snag the hood release cable. The windsheild washer pumps Does the power antenna work?

It actually sounds likt it doesnt even have a T-stat

Mabe it is hard to use a hack saw?

I drove like that for a year so it isnt a rush, just realize it wil be hard when cold and will get worse over time. It goes away in warm weather.

Your rack is starting to fail. The rack will bind up in cold weather untill the fluid warms it up. You need a new rack.

Power steering fluid used to be the same in everything, but not any more. Some cars are getting very exotic in what they need,

It is a std correctio of the tranny issue. You need to get the rear diff too.

I'm just lurking here...

Coolant change .. there is an air buble. Refill procedure: remove cap. With engine running slowly fill radiator. ONce the t-stat opens (may be some overflow from the radiator) top off radiator. Put cap on radiator Fill overflow tank Drive around block Allow to cool Check fluid levels, repeat if needed. If you have to repeat it more then once something else is going on. Thats the proper procedure for all cars BTW, just people don't do it.

Is this all the time or just after the car has sat for a while?