nipper

An hour figuring out how to send a few pictures isn't too bad, is it? Brakes so simple a cave man could do them? Juan, the neanderthal yes that looks like a stuck slider to me. Well Fred Flintsone used his feet, so we can rule out a caveman Yes they are simple. Best to get yourself a haynes manual. It really is not that hard.

We are depending upon a person who may or may not have a lot of expierience with understanding or a tech (or desk guy) who is explaiing what the issue is. SO (and this does irk me) accusing a shop of doing something fishy is not proper untill proven so.

Unplug and replug in the ECU and see if it starts.

If this was on a paved/hard surface it will do this. Next time it happens jack up one tire and you can get it in fwd. You have loaded up the driveline with a lot of torque so the gears wont unload to slide.

Well i lied, 295,000 miles i just rounded up

In addition Altenator Axles if in good shape Radiator (flush it before storing it) Driveshaft if awd.

300,000 miles on Blu Most recent replacement parts this year - PS rack - Alt. - Outer tie rods. I have replaced the tires but they do not count as they are a wear item. I also need a timing belt this year. I really dont think anything aside from Maint, and wear items dont count. My PS rack didnt start leaking till 280,000 miles. You may need strauts right now. What I think you are going to hit are the struts, possibly ball joints, amybe a tranny mount (easy thing to do).

How does the car run? The IACV does have a gasket that may be leaking. If the valve has been replaced by the PO not all the bolts may have been replaced. They are a real PITA to replace, heck even I left one off as there was just no way (me personally) could get it on, and *SHOCK* the person who replaced it with the PO did the same thing.

First check to make sure there is reistance at the sensor (check them both). For function this sensor creates an AC voltage. The sensor will creat a pulse at regular intervals. The cam one pulses I-II-I-III. The crank shaft opne is harder to describe but there should be 7 pulses at various time intervals. They wont be all evenly spaced. You may want to get a haynes manual at this point to help out.

Check the crank and cam position sensors. Just as an FYI in the future dont change alot of parts to try to fix somthing all at once, as you can really make things worse. This can make it almost impossible to daignose. If it ran before the swap, that means it is something you did (not meant in a bad way). If you changed the timing belt triple check and make sure you used the right timing marks. Even pros can screw this up. It really sounds like a valve timing issue.

Have you done anything like... change the air filter? Sounds like you may ehave a vac leak. Some AC systems have a saftey valve if the pressure gets too high, I dont know if subaru has one off hand (I had an escort with one). When was the last time the AC was serviced? Does it blow cold?

Start with the cam sensor and disconnect the knock sensor. Crank controls spark, cam controls fuel injector timing. Cam sensor is easy to test as it is just a simple low voltage pulse signal. Check your grounds and harness too. For the record 5 minutes wil clear the codes.

Was there any stumble or hicup or otherwise oddness in the days before this? *God i am such an idiot* i shouldnt read other posts (sorry folks but it clutters my mind). There are very few things that kill a subaru. How about a bad crank sensor and or cam sensor. How is the battery voltage? And the engine oil level?

Have you tried radiator.com just to compare prices?

Well look at yours and see what it has.

It would be bypassing the sensor and it would be out of the circuit. A bad knock sensor can do weird things. All thats left really is the fuel injectors not working and not giving you fuel. See if the autparts store near you has a node set to rent.

Ok we have a few issues here. Being sure you have spark is not the same as having spark. How did you test the fuel pump pressure when you tested the pump? Flow does not equate to pressure. You need a fuel pressure tester to properly test both. Everything under the timing belt covers always looks new because it is in a very clean enviorment. Have you tried unplugging the knock sensor to see what happens

Lets start with something basic, a compression test. This would clear up the timing belt issue. On the reciept were the idlers and tensioner replaced? None of those errors really should keep the car from running. Have you checked all the fuses and the fuseable links? Next lets check the fuel pressure after the pressure regulator. Are you sure you have spark?

Frozen brake caliper slider (s).

Different control system on a subaru.

http://www.nj.gov/dep/parksandforests/parks/docs/batona14web.pdf Atsion is on the map, it is on Route 206 Sorry it took a while I couldnt log into the outback board to get the map.

That rarely if ever happens anymore. i am going with the PB booster.

First thing first, start with a tuneup.

Keep in mind that some of the engine seals are made for synthetic and may not tolerate dino well. This just means oil leaks at 80K as opposed to 120 k or more Thinner oil at lower temps means faster warm up for emissions. The actual federal emissions certifiaction is far more complictaed with a very interesting analyzer that takes samples from startup all the way through a test cycle.

If they are large i fill them, if they are tiny i do not. If it is a remote filter i fill them either way.