nipper

Stick with 16psi. 19psi can cause (even good) hoses to blow, old radiators or heater cores to leak, or even a waterpump seal to go.

Yes they are not the quietest subaru cars, rather loud compared to a leggo or outback.

We need the exact tranny code and engine codes. Subaru switches all go to ground. Essentially the FWD fuse is a switch, that closes a circuit that signals the TCU to hold the solenoid open. Your solenoid is not opening, and like said above, is fried. before you fix it, check your tranny fluid. If it is clean your clutches may be ok, if it is burnt the (awd) clutches may be damaged.

Tires can make a hige difference to start with. The amount of sound insulation may be more in the Lego then the Forester. When was the last time the diff lubrication wa schanged? Are the tires cupped ?

http://www.engineblox.com/?p=65How it works ..

On a sooby it would be the clips that failed. Failure to replace the clips will cause a clutch issue (why they are not included in the kits who knows). The clips failed for whatever reason and caused all those nasty things.

Welcome

Welcome

Yes it can. Easy. Jack up the car and turn the wheel, then turn the steering wheel and do it again. Listen and feel for any wierd noises, Shek the axle and see if there is any play. Can also be tie rod ends.

Bump

Also these are basically little microphones, you may have changed how it listens for ping. Water happens, especially when you go wheelin

Nope. It is phenalic (sp?) which is a kind of plastic. Many many cycles of expansion and contraction from heat and vibration eventually catches up with some of them and they crack or fail.

eek! felpro head gaskets? Piston slap goes away after 5 minutes or so. A leaky exhaust may do that too as the parts heat up and close the gap.

http://www.autoblog.com/2011/10/03/2012-subaru-impreza-first-drive-review/#continued

That is what I thought, thanks. It is basically the same system as other 80's vehicals, just the justy has an oddball cat and i wasnt sure. All elose fails it is an OBD1 system and my mechanic has always been good at *ahem* guiding older vehicals through inspections

Yaer model engine transmission type and mileage please

http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r21883344-Tech-Review-The-Long-Waited-FRAM-OIL-FILTER-REVIEW http://www.corolland.com/oil-filters.html http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/old_filters.shtml http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/opinions.html

Here in NY older cars only go through a tail pipe test. The Justy has an air injector right after the cat (which is bolted onto the exhaust manifold). The replacement system has a modern three way cat that goes where the single stage cat is now (think resonator type placement). I have to loose the air injector for the replacement system. Those who have removed the air injector, do you still pass(non CA) emissions?

No thats normal actually. Minr stopped doing that last week which i thought was odd, now i know. The cap itself became the vacume leak

Blu is a 97. he does not have a pressure senssor (CA cars may) on the tank to throw a tank code. Ocassionally i would smell a heavy gas smell. Today Blu developed hesitation. At parking lots speeds it felt like someone was pulling him back then letting him go. I checked all the fuel lines and smelled a we bit at the filler neck (EEK). I noticed the cap stopped venting when filling up. For 9.00 i figured what the hell and replaced the cap. All issues solved. I knew a bad cap would cause a gas smell (mine would come and go so hard to track down) but did not realize it would cause runing issues. Thinking about it with the closed evap system basically the cap caused something similar to a vacum leak. So just passing this on as an FYI.

CLutch test: Put front bumper against an IMOVABLE object (old tree or building) Set parking brake Start car Shift into the highest gear you have Let out clutch and do everything in your power to keep the car running. If the clutch is good it whold immediatly stall. If it runs at all for any lenrth of time the clutch is on its way out. If you can keep the car running do not keep running the test as you will cook what is left then your clutch

D to N and to D no revers to neutral to drive no Neutral to reverse yes Downshift yes upshift no.

Slipping never gets better, unless you want it to slip better then it will be more then happy to in the first sub zero blizzard you get.

Start by checking all your grounds and cleaning them. It may just be easier to run one or two new ones. Look at the fuses and see if they share a common power lead, check the fuseable links as it sounds like a connection going someplace

The shuddering and slipping when loaded is telling you you need a cltuch, it is also slipping under load in top gear but it is so minor you can't really notice it. The slipping clutch MAY be throwing out heat MAYBE causing it to get hot, but in all honesty this is the same type of construction as a wheel cylinder so it can handle the heat.