nipper

Altenator tests at autoiparts stores are 100% useless. You need to test it on the car at idle then with everything on and at 1800 rpm.

Somehow the Justy had front calipers and rotors that allowed the vehical to move, but when it cam time to refresh them, i had to use a 15lb sledge to get everything apart. So does not doing something count? And be careful with the c clamp, as it looks like a very sensative and highly calibrated instument.

HAHAHAHAHAHA Ok that made my very sad day a little lighter Use a power driver and instant power windows.

Yup, just takes some time to do it at home, just like you can balance your own wheels.

ALso realize the specs are compromises ... what you have now may work very well for your lift if the tires dont wear oddly. Different calibrations work best for different surfaces.

Yes, and replace the points

I doubt it not from the way he was driving, It seems he was overdriving the car and his abilities, no amount of protection will help that.

I have often wondered how you get a car out if you really do it in on a trail or in the woods.

http://www.autoblog.com/2011/08/30/forest-road-racing-subaru-owner-gets-painful-recovery-lesson/#continued

Always better to ask then re-invent the wheel(s). With lifts and mods things that look good on paper will not always work in real life. Sometimes lifts are so extreeme (juust an fyi) that you have to compromise and sometimes never quite hit the spec Alignment along with suspension is a giant tradeoff unless you spend big bucks to get everything you wish. Toe out on turns is a non adjustable geometry unless you have a tourch or a really big hammer. Some more reading http://www.familycar.com/Alignment.htm

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html Everything in a wheel alighnment can cause all sorts of weirdness depending on how much it is out and where. There are other things that can affect over/under, what issues are you having?

I would be surprised if it did as they two completly different animals made in two different countries

Did you repair a tonewheel? You cant repair them they need to be replaced. Sensors need to be perfectly cylindrical in shape, even the slightest erosion of the edge will cause them issues,

I'm not sure. Electronic ignition started showing up in the early 1970's, Pop the cap and tell us what you find.

Well he should nail you bigtime on this one, this is a weeee bit unsafe. Like the grand canyon is a wee crack in the topsoil. At the mileage on this car everything has everything to do with nothing, so A doesnt releate to B. My first bet is going to be a seized/frozen right front (or multiple) calipers.

Have you ever replaced the radiator cap?

Okies thank you, i sort of remebered that. i gotthejustythisclose to being on the road then he swallowed up a lot of dirt from his fuel line, so i had to deal wioth that.

Refresh my memory please. When you turn the key "on" and do not start the car the fuel pumps runs for a bit to fill/presurize the fuel system then times out. When the car is running the fuelpump just runs? It has been AGES, and i mean three dogs ages since i worked on a sooby fuel system with a carb.

Get a used knock sensor and i am doubting a blown HG, totally doubting it. Start with the knock sensor. Comp test: Remove the fuel pump fuse and let the car run till it stalls. All plugs removed Fully charged battery Wide open throttle plate Crank each cylinder for or five times Record reading do four times. Wet with an old pump type oil can (improvise) put some oil in a cylinder. Repeat above. The oil will spread out but if you can find an aerosol oil that would be better. Record numbers If the numbers are higher you have tired rings, if not, it is the vlaves. If the numbers are within 10% of each other it is not the HG, especially on both of them. He may have meant tired valves,

This is an intermittent thing so not really unless you have a fault light on the dash. The other way to test it is to swap TCU's and see if it goes away. It may be in the shifter itself fdon't know as the car is not in my driveway. Another tool they are supposed to use is a set of pressure gauges on the transmission to read what the tranny is doing internally. This shop just doesnt want to invest the time.

Dry first is a straight comp test. Wet is the same thing with oil squirted in the cylinders. It tells you if the rings are tired (compression will go up). The belt was replaced at 75,000 miles ish. There is only 122Km on a 1992 car? A bad HG will have one cylinder lower then the other ones, or at least one side lower then the other. I don't like the helicoil of the tensioner, it got stripped. I am going with the timing being off. Why did he say the HG was bad? Are you loosing oil or coolant?

Need to know wet and dry numbers on the compression test. I do not see a bad HG on those numbers, i see a jumped timing belt or a tired engine. hrmmmm Did you replace the idlers and tensioners with the timing belt?

No indicator light now is telling me it is a bad tcu.

Trans X swells seals amoung other things, so that will not help here. The fluid is badly burnt. The clutches are freid. It has lived a good life.

Of course there are things they can do without codes, just this dealer is very lazy, does not want to comit time to true diagnostics and may njot have truly talented and certified machanics. Codes are a tool, not the answer. Things it can be, a worn Inhibitor switch (not always telling the car what the selector is in), a bad motor mount, a bad cable or cable out of adjustment, or a valve body issue. What is happening is for some reason the car thinks you have decided to hold 2nd gear. Every modern trannywill force an upshift at redline even when the operator decides to hold a gear. Netural after a bump is pointing to the gear selector cable/mechanisim being out of adjustment. This may be several issues not just one.