nipper

First thing first, start with a tuneup.

Keep in mind that some of the engine seals are made for synthetic and may not tolerate dino well. This just means oil leaks at 80K as opposed to 120 k or more Thinner oil at lower temps means faster warm up for emissions. The actual federal emissions certifiaction is far more complictaed with a very interesting analyzer that takes samples from startup all the way through a test cycle.

If they are large i fill them, if they are tiny i do not. If it is a remote filter i fill them either way.

Actually in the US it is 7500 miles. There are valid reasons for the differences, it comes down to driving habits, enviorment and fuel quality. There are also quite a few cars that say to change it when the oil change light comes on. VW has had quite a few law suits for engine sludge seizing engines (and have had them here as well) along with a few other mfg's. Timing belt here was originally driven by emission laws, as keeping the valve train in synch is vital to emissions. Professionally even on the best synthetic unless you are doing al ot and i mean 100% highway miles, (and there is always someone who will say they got 20 gazzillion on an oil change well good for them) your pushing your luck beyond 7 k and 5 k is actually a lot more reasonable and easier to remember.

i go to five and all of my cars died of cancer at over 200K or more

Ok so they didnt go crazy on the interval. I would do the first two then 5K after that ... dont forget to lube the door hinges, dont want them falling off too soon

Oh hell, go for free then . What intervals are they recomending?

I'm not a big fan of valvoline. Ask yourself how long do you want to keep the car. If it is for the typical subaru ownership (till the doors fall off) I would (and do actually) chaneg the oil every 5000 ,iles.

I have for that extra minty intake air taste It works well.

Keep in mind that one month is equal to 1000 miles. The timing belt may have been way overdue time wise.

Ok lest start with - 1- get a new cap 2- try to get a subaru T stat if possible. 3- Fill it up properly (I swear I am going to insist this becomes a sticky, I use it so often I just cut and paste from a file) 1- start car 2- SLOWLY fill the cooling system with 50/50 3- Watch temp gauge wait for t -stat to open )may overflow at radiator fot a minute) Continue to fill slowly. 4- Put cap on car. With overflow filled to the line, drive car around block. Allow to cool off. Check fluid level again and repeat if needed.

I wonder why the Forester is the only one that uses dino-oil. Learn to change your own oil, my oil changes (synthetic) costs about 35.00, 26 for oil from walmart (mobil 1) and a filter.

Actually it is the "supplimental" system. It is not covered like seat belts.

Really old school is a flat rock And newer subarus do have a finish requirement, but that's only if the head was warped and had to be machined.

Just replace the knock sensor. The code only gets thrown if the sensor malfunctions, not if something is beyond it's capability.

This is actually a very valid method for older engines and has been used as long as there have been headgaskets. Now if you have a serious warp issue it has to go to a shop or a more modern engine.

Basically turn up the stereo. It is annoying but nothing really to worry about, there are quite a few engines out there (hello old GM) that do it far worse.

A better way of wording it, why do you loose your AWD (now 4wd) once the car warms up. When cold the fluid is thicker and seals are tighter. As things heat up, selas expand, fluids get thinner and there is some pressure loss. That pressure from the thicker heavier fluid was leaking around seals causing you to have TB. Once things heat up it goes away,m but so does your AWD. Your housing is tired, and you need a new housing and clutch pack. For the record gum gets gummier as it gets warm, so if it was a gum issue it would get worse with heat.

What he said, there is more to torque bind then the clutch pack and the C solenoid. especially on pre 1997 1/2 - 4eats.

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In New York you can get a pair of plates from the year of the car with the car being historic. If the car gets historical plates (plates that state they are a historic registration) you are qualified for historic insurance. Depending upon the insurance policy there are limits on how much you can drive. IE - a 1965 car can have historic plates with historic insurance and have usage limits. - The 1965 car can have plates from 1965 and be a daily driver with regular insurance. Check each state for the laws.

The low fuel light will not come on as a test, it never does. The turbo light will not either i think, though i may be wrong.

Oh come on, no one wants to go here in the mid atlantic area? People ask about wheelin all the time, but when it something is organized noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

Not around gas ...

Any transmission you bolt it to can not handle the torque, and as stated a CAN-BUS which in english means it is all multiplexed. The ecu may not be just an ecu but the cars other systems may be tapped into the "ECU".