nipper

On the A pillar, i would have ran the wires through the trim, under the trim, and with alot of cursing (like i did for the aftermarket compass/mirror though a very tight acess hole (tight hand wise, plenty of room for wires). nipper

Could be as simple as a buggy evap canister or evap hoses (especially if it is only at startup). nipper

Yes and no, i should have said slowly turn the fan as you have the meter connected. Can be a bad winding in the motor. Also one thing ive learned in too many years of working with electricity. Electricity failed electrical theory and on occasion can do weird things nipper

You need new freinds, or if he keeps this up, he (sadly) may solve that problem for you .... nipper

What took you so long :-p nipper

Fuel pressure regulators do go bad. nipper

Your really lucky. A car can be deisgned to have the occupants survive an accident, it cant be designed to survive stupidity. nipper

same amounts as any collection of POS engines. Sounds like the DOHC was poorly stored (not the engines fault), and only god knows what happened to blow a hole in the piston on the SOHC, though that is usually a bad case of engine knock. nipper

Any work recently done to the car? Before you do what was suggested, take an ohm meter and see if there is a dead short to ground at the motors. NExt check the relays to see if they are shorted. This is an unusal circumstance, but it sounds like a dead short. There isnt much to the system, so as long as no harnesses are pinched,should be easy to find. nipper

Inspect the center diff itself. They take a huge beating when the VC goes bad, so do all the associated bearings. nipper

SO if you have flatness gauges that can read in the 1000's and a gauge block then your right. Also the surface finish is critical, and that you can not check on the bench, as its an extreemly fine number. Surface finish is almost more important then flatness. Google "why head gaskets fail" for more info i am unsubscribing from this thread since it seems to be getting no where. nipper

battery is only 1/2 of the charging system. It stores energy. the altenator runs the car. If the alt is not keeping up with the load from time to time, the battery is part of the load. Also you cant tell much with a volt meter, hence the load test. nipper

Load test the charging system. A dying altenator can cuase everything you just described. nipper

Odd i think the 2.5 is pretty good once it gets off the line. Also remember the ford was Not AWD. You have two drive trains to move, not just one. Thats eats up alot of power. Also the escort is lighter. Its comparing apples an oranges. The most common simple cause for an oil leak is a loose valve cover. The stop leak stuff only works on gaskets that do not seal against anything that rotates. Get the codes read, see what comes up. The problem with subaru oil leaks is that they drip on the exhaust pipes and that smoke gets pulled into the cabin by the HVAC (or anything else that leaks on them for that matter). Another possible leak is power steering fluid. nipper

There in lies the failure. YOU ALWAYS have to have the heads sent out to a shop to at least be checked for flatness (even more important with aluminum heads). Unless you have the proper equipment, its hard to do at your workbench. You should consider yourself lucky that the other two worked, not that this one didnt. Since you never had them checked, i wouldgo ahead and send them to a shop and have them checked. if they are warped, thats why the HG failed. Have them machined and do it again and you should be fine. nipper

show off nipper

Loss of control of the car. The feeling in your stomach when the car feels odd when the steering starts acting up again. You can gain peace of mind by replacing the rack. nipper

Its either the U joints in the driveshaft, or the carrier bearing for the driveshaft. It will get more prounounced with time, but also you will find your top speed slowing down due to the vibration. A simple inspection of the joints will tell. nipper

Two possabilities : 1- The drain hose for the HVAC system is clogged and water form the ac is collecting in the box. 2- Air in the radaitor. Start the car with the cap off. Let ti warm up enough for the car to spit up (thermostat opens) and top off with the car running. Put cap back on and rive around the block. Make sure the overflow is at the middle level, shut off car let cool. Check coolant level when car is cold. nipper

its photoshop. Look closely at the subaru logo, its out of scale, a bit pixilated, and an odd color compared to the rest of the pics. nipper

DO a swap. Its a tough thing to by any aluminum engine with bad HG because you dont know how cooked the engine was. Assuming you used OE replacement parts, odds are the engine was cooked and one of the cyinder sleeves shifted. nipper

You can use a smaller loom to branch off the bigger loom to individual gauges. Go back and adjust your wire lengths. Where did you tap into the oil pressure, temp and tranny temp? nipper

Car needs to be running to check for Torque bind. Does its start? What condition is it in overall. The engine is a complete unknown, so at 250.00 it would be a buy, maybe. Its hard to buy a aluminum engine car with a blown HG as so many other things can be wrong with the engine. Now if you but it with an engine swap in mind thats a bit different. nipper

In all AWD subarus the tank is split in two by the driveshaft. This nescetates the dual senders a "jet" pump (fuel siphon). The jet pump siphons the fuel out of one side of the tank to the side with the electric pump. They work in conjunction with each other. You can not use a AWD sender in a 2wd car. nipper

http://www.cars101.com/oldsubaru.html#1985 nipper