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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. In addition, clean out the radiator before you take the car apart. The reason for this is that everything is still liquid. If you do it after, everything is exposde to air, and that gunk turns to glue. get a new radiator cap. The sweet thing is that you are doing it before the car cooks. That should make the job really straight forward as far as the odds of the car being 100% when your all done. Also dont forget to clean the overflow tank, and do an oil change. nipper
  2. Here is a real longshot, but not uncommon. i bet you have two gears engaged at the same time. You need to get under the car and move the linkage manually to make sure everything is in neutral. it. nipper
  3. Thats not a normal part to get replaced, so you may have a bit of a problem. Thats what we call a hardpart, and is not usually replaced. Parts like that are usually temperiture pressed. nipper
  4. Thats a good point. There really is no reason for it to do that. Does the car lurch at all? Can you feel the clutch grab then stall? Does it happen in neutral? Can you shift through all the gears? nipper
  5. When the car dies, does it sputter, or act like somone just shot off the ignition? Go back and inspect everything, look for any vacume hoses or electrical connections. For the life of me i cant think of a cause and effect, except for coincidence. nipper
  6. Andyo, its called the MPT Clutch hub. and no its not supposed to have those deep marks in it. That means it was eating or one or more of the clutch discs got locked up, like somone threw a switch ...... Thats not good. I have some PDfs i can send you to show it. nipper
  7. Blu is simple. Once a year spend XXX.XX (and the first number is NOT 1-4) and hes happy for the year. Odd though how he can smell money. When i get my settlelment check, i'll have to walk to the bank, i dont want him smelling that nipper
  8. Compression test, both wet and dry. Remove the radiator cap, let the car warm up and burp, top off coolant, and look for bubbles. nipper
  9. Not hard to learn. They can tell you if the exhaust is restrictive, low compression, sticking valves etc http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm nipper
  10. Subaru of america (web site) is sometimes pretty helpful with these engineering questions. i know that have been really helpful with AWD tech questions. Maybe someone can aske them? nipper
  11. with no 02 sensor the car will run fine in the driveway, you would throw a code once the car warms up enough. It would affect gas mileage, but not that you would see under these conditions. Can you throw a vacume gauge on the car and tell us what it does? nipper
  12. it almost sounds like a collapsed or clogged cat Any rags stuck in the intake anywhere? nipper
  13. Did you replace the front main seal and re seal the oil pump? Also there is an oil galley plug or two. A leak this big should be easy to spot. Clean the underneath of the engine using an engine cleaner. push the car out of the gaint puddle you just made. Start it up untill you see the dripping then shut it down and see where its coming from. Sadly there arent too many things that can cause this fast a leak in a sooby.
  14. actually my first choice would be a used one. Racks when they go bad, tend to leak, so its very obvious. They dont really leak internally or bind up. nipper
  15. usually a bad knock sensor code is just that, a bad knock sensor. Not much to test on the bench, so i would just go ahead and replace it. nipper
  16. holy run on scentences .... Could you please rewrite that in english, then maybe we can help nipper
  17. Why are we here.... What is the meaning to life ..... Who came first the chicken or the egg .... Whats the difference intiming belts .... All age old questions with no real answers. You really need to go with the factory recomendations. There is more to a belt then just design. The load the belt is under also has an efect on age. Also if your engine is an interference engine, you dont want to risk it. nipper
  18. one word. Water. If your timing belt covers are off, if you wet the tensioners the noise should change. Actually do this to any idler for any belt. nipper
  19. Yup an ignitor. DO you have a manual for the car? Its not a complicated circuit and can be easily traced out. You may have a shorted coil . nipper
  20. rod knock is more aparent at idle then anyplace else. You have a vibration noise of some kind. To test for rod knock, at idle remove one plug wire at a time and see if the suspected noise changes. i'm voting for a heat sheild. nipper
  21. SOunds like a dead short someplace. The coil resistance seems low too. What are you calling an xistor? nipper
  22. It's not that bad a motor. If you follow some peoples logic (blown HG), then by the same measure subaru makes the worst awd system in the world. (just as many TB threads as HG threads). There are many many many more people on this list with perfectly good 2.5L with over 200,000 miles on them. They are strong powerful engines, especially the DOHC engines. The 2.2 is a good strong engine, but i think the 2.5 is more fun. i have owned both. nipper
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