nipper

il'd agree but the code would tell us for sure.... especialy if its the knock sensor code

grrrrrrr We need to know engine mileage transmission. You need to get the code read otherwise you will get a bunch of differnt guesses. Does it do it hot, cold or both. When was the last time you changed the fuel filter. nipper

Have you tried playing with the timing to get around this problem. Maybe the initial timing is already far off? ANother method, have a vacum gauge? nipper

I have rebuilt many carbs. Its not so much the rebuild, if your slow and methodical and watch for the tiny parts, youll do fine. What usually happens is the bushings or pass throughs for the shafts get worn and allow for air leakage. Rebuild kits are cheap. Spray some carb cleaner around the shafts of yours and see if it gets sucked into the carb (rpm change). If it doesnt your shafts are probably ok. How much do they want for the other carb? If you need to have the car running, i would rebuild one of them and use the other to keep the car running. Justa thought. nipper

And winter air is heavier then summer air, so if you have winter air in the tires .... It can also have something to do with the gearing. nipper

ok then i dont have a clue. i thought by 1991 everything lost its distrubutors. nipper

The shock of the impact could have broken a dying cam sensor. A cam sensor will kep the car from running. Its possible to have a fender bender and have the car totaled due to parts costs, and still have a fixable car. Can we see the damage please? nipper

er um, exactly how are you setting the timing since there is no distrubutor to set? Th ECU selects the timing. Also 23 and 24 can be related. How well does the car run. Check for a loose hose or vacume line. nipper

Sorry i wasnt endorsing them, just trying to give people a place to look. Another possability is calling your local AAA and asking them for a shop recomendation. Seems each BBB is only as good as that states consumers laws. nipper

Dear Santa ..... nipper

Thats what they hint at, as the common fix on the svx board is to convert the svx to a legacy transmission. I just dont want to see somone post on the board how they are having JDM/austrailain transmission issues. It is worth investigating. nipper

are these factory or aftermarket units? nipper

Killing 2 birds with one stone Acording to this they were closed deck till 1995 (and some of them were hybrids) http://www.spdusa.com/turbos.htm And subaru i dont beleive have many differnt block configurations. http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/deck.htm I think this is also the reason you cant turbocharge a non turbo 2.5L http://www.ttmtechnical.com/engine_building.html http://www.carsurvey.org/viewcomments_review_61395.html http://hondaswap.com/general-tech-maintenance/open-deck-closed-deck-64559/ (its a honda site but great pics of what they look like). The other ones had thicker cylinder walls. The 2.5 has thinner walls. Another interesting read which hints at the 2.5 open deck issues. In 1999 subaru started looking at the issues (hence the coordination of dates for internal HG failures). nipper

We were discussing AUTOMATIC transmissions, not manuals. nipper

OK, so ill take the lump of coal out of your car nipper

Transmission shops are the only place i fear to go. If i ever need a transmission, i go to a place that has one day service (they have the trannies rebuilt by a vendor) or get a used one. This is the last part of the automotive industry that is still really shady. The first thing you should do when the car is suspected of a transmission problem is your regular mechanic, and not a transmission shop. Let him rule out everything else first and give you a dignoses. Same with the dealer. Before you set foot in a tranny shop, call the BBB first and check out thier credentials. nipper

Ok ive been reading interesting things on the SVX board. DO NOT get a JDM transmission. It is possible that not only does it not have a clutch pack, but the duty c solenoid operates totally opposit of what it does in america. http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=36400&page=2 nipper

My money is on a broken sway bar connection or broken sway bar. Its not common but it happens. nipper

Er um, yes its possible given how the HG age and what the failure mode is. Normally i would say no, but this being a subaru with a 2.5L its possible. The problem with this engine (and all similar engines) is that it is an open deck design. The open deck does not fully support the HG. Add to that any tiny air bubbles. Also if one doesnt change the antifreeze regularly it can add to the problem. Cars also age by time, not only by mileage. Good news is once its fixed its fixed. As long as she didnt bake the engine, it should be fine. I will tell you to get an oil change though. It is a little extra insurance. nipper

But not all trannies need a rebuild to fix them, and i really do take offense that there is no skill required to rebuild a tranny (being one who does it). It may take no skill to throw parts together, but it does take skill to do it right. nipper

AHHA i dont know why ididnt suggest it. Inspect the universal joints in the driveshaft and the center bearing. They can cause shimmy at a specific speed. I had that problem, it was the joints. nipper

I would be curious to know what parts are being changed for $600. That sounds steep for anything related to fuel lines. If indeed the car is leaking fuel, or fuel vapor, that probably technically violates the EPA regs regarding HC & evaporative emissions...the emissions warranty (mandated by the EPA) on the car is typically much longer than the standard manufacturer's warranty. Perhaps you should file a complaint with the EPA, or suggest to Subaru that this issue is a violation of EPA regs? Anyway, isn't $600 about one months insurance payment on a WRX? Hope you get it sorted out, Nathan A fuel leak smell is considered a danger. Go to the NHTSA website and file a complaint there. nipper

Take a straight edge to the rotors and check them for flatness. I doubt its the rack as this is not a rack failure mode. Check the universal joiint in the steering column (again not a typical mode of failure). My car pulses in the front end from time to time (not always) and ive been told its the rotors by people on here. I havent checked them yet, but at 200,000 miles on them i am going to replace them with the next brake job. nipper

Are you sure its the ignition switch and not the key? I would go to a dealer and have a new key made (i just did that for 7.00) and try that first. Call a dealer or two to see if they have the key codes. First dealer i went too said my 1997 was too old and there would be no key code in the system. Second dealer said they have every key code in the subaru system. nipper

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-sw-1970-subaru-360-vans-2-for-one-price_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6467QQihZ004QQitemZ140066632971QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Does that help? nipper