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Everything posted by nipper
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Here is what you do. Temporarily hook up a test light from the post on the starter that comes from the ignition switch. If the light lights up and the car doesnt start, its the starter or battery cable. If it doesnt light up its the ignition switch or the neutral saftey (inhibitor) switch. Thats really the only way to be sure. nipper
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1- depending upon driving habits etc 19-29 seems the range, a few get higher, get lower then 19 ans it needs to be investigated. 2- Its actually a heavy car with 4wheel drive, large tires, and a 4 cylinder engine. 3- SUbaru is a free breathing engine. There are cold air induction units, but you cant go cheap on them. Buy the wrong one and it makes more headaches then its worth 4- Make sure all the tires are inflkated equally. Alltires must match. If you drive on the spare you need to install the FWD fuse under the hood. Change tranny fluid and antifreeze regularly. Driving on mismatched or a flat tire can harm the AWD unit. Change the timing belt at the recomended intervals, since its an interference engine. do NOT EVER over heat the car. 1- There isnt one for the 2001 yet, but a haynes manual will be about 80% correct from the previuos years. 2- 105,000 miles and you do the waterpuump, thermostat, cam and main seals, and reseal the oil pump, replace the tensioner and inspect idlers, then your good for another 105,000 miles. PS car is bullit proof if you take care of it. It can be abused but those are the points to know of. welcome nipper
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Since ol blu and i are going to run away for a month (i'll have a laptop with me) i've been updating the car. Ive got my trip computer, i installed an autodimming compass temp mirror. This is going to be a coast to caost drive, since ol blu got a tuneup at a clean bill of health the other day. Now I am looking for a rear fog light (yes i love night driving). I cant seem to dinf anything JDM or otherwise for my 97 outback that i like. i know the Euro reg is it has to be mounted 100 cm from a break light, which is fine. I'ld like to get something that is OE like if that even exists. i know my 87 had a spot to install them. Any idea?
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my fault i got the conversions screwed up http://www.subaru.co.uk/IMGGB/WWW/Subaru_co_uk.nsf/NULL/58B0A0D97E381DAF8025706500316B64?Opendocument which is 50,000 dollars US but once again, that considered a high price for the UK, where deisels are available, and cars as low as 10,000 British money thingies Outback is considered very upscale in the UK nipper
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It's much easier to remove the engine since this car is not on the road yet. Replace the following Water pump cam seals main seal re-seal oil pump timing belt timing belt tensioners Since it sounds like this car has not had a easy life, also the timing belt idlers rear main seal That silly plastic panel un the bellhousing (if its metal your ok) Thermostat - subaru CLean out the radiator oil change tranny flush This sounds like a lot but its not. Do all these and your good for another 100,000 miles
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How does it beahve in very tight turns. You really need to get this thing looked at asap. If its a failed AWD system, your daughter may find the car impossible to park since it wont respond properly. The failed AWD unit is the most common cause, but it can be any of the other 5 solenoids in there. nipper
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Now just keep an ear on things for the next month. If you make it through the month, then your golden For the record there are two vlaves in the tranny, one is a spool valve, which we cant get to, the other is the Duty C Solenoid, which we can. The Solenoid controls the torque split by cycling on and off very quickly. The other valve regulates how much pressure is applies to the clutch packs. This allows for more slippage at low speed, and less at high speed. nipper
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Darn such fatalisitc atitude, if it isnt broke dont fix it. Preemptive HG surgery is silly, sonsideinrg only 10-15% of them have HG failures. This is an announace leak. Since your not hugely versed in removing the engine (its not that hard) i would wait until its time ofr the timing belt etc etc etc, unless the leak gets worse. If it does get worse, then do all the timing belt stuff at the same time you pull the engine. nipper