nipper

that was the worst shop you could have ever gone too. SOunds like the shop only was interested in selling you a tranny as oppsed to repairing it for far less. You had torque bind. By them telling you to keep driving it untill it was undrvieable was just wrong. Automatic or manual, when you have torque bind and do nothing about it, but keep driving the car, you can destroy the transmission. The car was repareable at some point, but now it is way beyond that. This is the worse case scenario where the entire driveline has taken a beating. You can get a used transmission for the car for far less. nipper

that was the worst shop you could have ever gone too. SOunds like the shop only was interested in selling you a tranny as oppsed to repairing it for far less. You had torque bind. By them telling you to keep driving it untill it was undrvieable was just wrong. Automatic or manual, when you have torque bind and do nothing about it, but keep driving the car, you can destroy the transmission. The car was repareable at some point, but now it is way beyond that. This is the worse case scenario where the entire driveline has taken a beating. You can get a used transmission for the car for far less. nipper

what is an upper block? this sounds so suspisous. If the car is running fine, and you hadnt had many complaints, i would be highly suspisous. Brakes you can do yourself. When was the last time this thing had a PCV valve replaced (oil usage). Is the car burning oil or using oil. When the timing belt was done, were the seals replaced. at 105,000 miles there is no need for this to be a money pit unless it wasnt maintained. This entire thing sounds suspisous. Why do you need a headgasket? Is the car leaking or overheating? His price is way too high, should be someplace around 2000.00 Take it to a real shop where you get a warrenty. Having neighbors work on a car can ruin freindships. nipper

i think youll like the performance of the 95 better then the 94, especially if you get an automatic. nipper

yes i said miles. You have about 93,000 miles on your car, so you wont hurt anything with a flushing. American subarus are in miles per hour. nipper

you see, this is how it starts. You move/replace one picture on a wall, then the shadow is still there. Next thing you know is your repainting every room in the house. try rubbing compound, but you may have to rub out the entire car to get it to match. May be easier to put the letters back on. nipper

well i get tired of repeating myself. It also is the #1 reason the VC or the clutch pack gets chewed up. nipper

opsy sorry but still flush it. And of course the entire tire matching thing.

You dont say how many miles on the car. FLushes have been safely done up to 180,000 miles with no problem. Its a last resort thing b4 you think of repairing replacing the tranny nipper

two possabilites, call a local dealership and ask who they use, call your insurance company and ask to see thier list, then call the BBB to double check them both. nipper

go to an independent shop (this is something they can do). Depending upon what they are replacing it may be a good price, or it may be high. My auto clutchpack cost 875.00 and i think the VC should be about the same price. My gut is that it is too high. nipper

what are you going to put this in? i did a quick search and there isnt alot of praise for it. No source on who makes it, but walmart does sell re processed engine oil (not a bad thing). Also remeber you still need to change the filter at regular intervals, and mosy synthetic manufatcures still say to change the oil at mfg suggested intervals. Engine oil isnt something i would cheap out on, the cost to correct the mistake is too big. nipper

sigh, its once every 30,000 miles (i do believe). Sheesh Two ways of doing it, is drain it, go around the block, repeat 3 imes, or pay someone to do it. nipper

like i said, if the car was designed for the scoop, its fine, its doing its job, and the 91 turbo was engineered that way. The discussion is about a 2nd generation NA legacy, or did it shift gears on me. nipper

HG issues has to do with an air pocket in the engine cooling system. Air intake is already designed as a cold air system, since it takes its air under the fender, not under the hood. nipper

ambiant may be 115 degrees, but under the hood can be 180 degrees. You can actually screw things up by opening up that scoop. The scoop is low enough so it doesnt make a lot of drag.. Opening it up can mess with the high pressure pocket at the base of the windsheild. this pocket brings air into the car. Also opening the scoop will bring weather into the engine compartment. If you look at all properly desigend scoops, they are sealed so that weather (rain snow) does not get under the hood. Also the y are designed for optimal air management. You can possibly also increase wind noise. It is also possible you can raise the temp under the hood by interupting the air flow under the hood. The air flow around the enigne is now more engineered than it used to be. There was a time when opening hood scoops made sense, now you may interupt the air flow around the radiator. I can see where it would speed up the air flow, (highway speed), and impeede it (low speed). These cars have been around with scoops for many years with no problem.

one other thing, wiper blades. nipper

freon doesnt just go away, it leaks out. you most liekley have a tired o ring someplace. Better off getting it fixed right the first time since you dont know how big the leak is. nipper

your altenator is going. Thats the only thing there that will whine. The PS pump makes more of a growling noise. Get a wooden dowel. PLace one end on the alt housing, the other against your ear. It will act like a stethascope and you can pinpoint the noise. The power window is prbbly related. nipper

i'ld go for the outback. i just think the outback (the 03) is a better looking and more liveable car. i dont like the new foresters. Again make sure the car was well maintained, and see if they can throw in any kind of warrenty. nipper

it was just way too fats on the cooldown to be a HG, though that was in the back of my mind. as soon as i reved the engine the temp came down to normal, and in a sort of jerking motion. The overflow tank, though yucky (previous owner never had it cleaned) wasnt full. The radiator was clean. i'm keeping an eye on it just in case.

WAAAAAAAAAAAAA no one loves me i think i just figured out the probelm myself. Dug out the official load tester. The charging system tested ok, but the battery is iffy. nipper

they do it a few ways. The #1 way is the fill the system with some gas, and use an electronic device called a sniffer to rind the leak. Another is a sumple bubble test, since 90% of all leaks are at the o rings. nipper

i think my altenator just gave its first death gasp After driving 7 miles on the parkway, i was sitting in a line of traffic at a light. i noticed my ac was a little warmer then usual. i looked at my temp gauge it was at 3/4. My temp gauge is always a hair below middle. i shut off the ac thinking that maybe at 187000 miles my radiator may be clogged. The gauge came down a little bit, then took 3 seconds to go to overheat. the car was running fine. As soon as i accelerated the temp gauge immediatly went to normal. The empe gauge was acting like a voltage gauge. The ac was fine, and the car has been fine since. i drove the car with everything on for 8 miles in mixed traffic and i cant reproduce it. With my mediical limitations i have to plan repairs in advanced (who can i sucker into it). i was thinking that maybe i should just go ahead and replace the Alt. Thoughts? nipper

actually the only thing i accept is the road hazard warrenty. I have used it many times over the lifetime of a set tirtes and was well worth it. Buy it if you live someplace with crummy roads. nipper